420HC does hold an edge

Joined
Jan 2, 2001
Messages
208
I was concerned about the edge holding of 420HC after my last post (Dissin' 420HC). Today I got the chance to find out. When I got to work I had to load bags of water treatment resins into a tank. They were poly bags ( a few mils thicker than the bags that rock salt come in) 50 Lbs. each. So I whipped out my 110 and started slicing. Each slice was about 1 1/4 ft. By the end of the day I had done 330 bags and the 110 was still kicking. When the next shift came on I told my relief about this. He felt the edge on the knife and was very surprised how sharp it still was. But then he looked at the tang and said " No wonder, it's a Buck".
 
Any martensitic (hardenable) steel will hold an edge if hardened past Rc 54. From the ultra simple carbons (1050, 1084) to the 420 and 440 series and other Chromium-Molybdenum (CroMo) steels.

Harder means it holds an edge better, up until Rc61, past which brittleness creeps in.

A real test would be to COMPARE the 420HC to something else, in an unbiased test on homogeneous/similar material. Like BG-42 or a CPM 4xV steel.

You may not have those bags to slice again, that's why people use rope and cardboard, fairly repeatable and material is cheap and plentiful.

Don't kid yourself... 420HC is one of the very lowest of the low end steels. It may well meet your needs and be very cost effective however...no problem with that! Just understand the possibilities and make an educated choice.

[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 02-16-2001).]
 
Some people are not satisfied unless they have the most expensive or the newest toy! Somehow it must make them feel superier. I think for regular use the 420HC is fine. Skin your 1 or 2 deer out a year and sharpen your knife when the next season comes along. I for one don't need to cut the lock out of a car door or smash your knife against a brick to see if steel a stays sharper than steel b. Get a real life!




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Doug Pettit

Buck Collectors Club
Member #1222
 
My brother was recently introduced to USENET newsgroups and was reading posts on the 35 mm "Canon vesus Nikon" photo boards. He commented that "it's like someone took out the fuses and replaced them with pennies." My point is that it's possible on these "review and opinion" boards to feel both a sense of isolation and polarization - everything becomes "either-or." Let's not let that rather harsh spirit infect this thread! Knife users and knife uses vary - and there is a steel and a shape and a purpose for every blade under heaven. I tried to address some of the ways that I personally use knives thru the seasons in a self-published article on my site - you can read it here http://www.vintageknives.com/The%20Knives%20I%20Carry.htm
The bottom line is that I have a piece for opening feed sacks and I have a piece for skinning deer and I have a piece for admiring while I trim a cigar end... and I enjoy them ALL!

ever
the pup
 
You guys have "got me wrong."

If you divide the dollars spent by the edge holding capability, and compare the amount of stuff cut per dollar of knife cost, 420HC probably does exceedingly well. That is a good thing. That is exactly the market niche that Buck caters to. And they sell 10x what the nearest competitor probably sells, and so have 10x the exposure of most (except maybe Gerber and Shrade). You get the point.

There is no arrogance in my saying 420HC is one of the lowest of the blade steels offered by any major manufacturer. It is a very true, verifiable commentary. I looked through the steel composition matrix that I bothered to consult, and 420 HR is below ALL of the typical stuff, even 420MOD, 425MOD, AUS-6, you name it. Only the taiwanese type copycat $#!+ is any lower. That doesn't mean it won't hold an edge. Anything that gets past Rockwell C scale 56 will hold an edge, at least for a while.

I really don't care what you carry, nor should you carry what the funk I carry or own. Who cares at some level? Cut your boxes and deer open and enjoy life.

If you enjoy your Buck knife, then great. Just don't confuse edge holding with superior edge holding. Any martensitic steel will hold an edge. The simple 1050 and 1084 steels hold a very good edge if hardened to the upper Rc 50's.

A lot of people say "I want a knife that is easy to sharpen". They are missing the point that anything easy to sharpen is also easy to UNSHARPEN by using it. And I mean, specifically, if it is easy to unsharpen, it will not hold an edge as long as something that is hard to sharpen like D2 or CPM 420V. With very few exceptions, that is the rule.

I can think of one minor exception... that is 52100 steel heat treated by some of the masters of said steel in Montana, the Fowler/Dunkerly crew. That stuff really holds an edge and is also easy to resharpen, alas, it is carbon steel and needs some attention.

You guys can pretend that you are hiding over here (but you aren't, you show up every time you post in "Today's Active Topics") and tell me to get a life, but I indeed have a life, and own a ton of knives (90+ at last count) and I use probably 1/2 of them.

If you think that is excessive, you are right. It's a hobby. I have lots of other hobby's too. They all cost money. They all keep me sane.

And I work in an industry where I know shift workers do some ball busting work in water treating areas, hydrocarbon processing, batch kettle reactant/catalyst loading, exchanger cleaning, etc.

Enjoy our knives and be nice. And be educated if you choose. Be knowledgeable if you choose. And be a Buck customer if you so choose. But be open minded that there are other possibilities out there.

How can you justify a $15,000 Harley when a used Honda at $3,000 is just as good for basic transportation? That's not the point of a new Harley...


[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 03-29-2001).]
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Douglas Pettit:
Skin your 1 or 2 deer out a year and sharpen your knife when the next season comes along. I for one don't need to cut the lock out of a car door or smash your knife against a brick to see if steel a stays sharper than steel b. Get a real life!
</font>

This is what I was referring to. I skin more than 1 or 2 deer per year, and don't do silly $#!+ as suggested above.
 
I have been using Buck knives for over 35 years. The steel has changed from 440C to 425M to 420(HC). About 1982-1983 Buck installed their own press machines to blank out the blades, the 440C was changed to lower carbon steels which were more economical on die wear. Buck must make a profitable business with their knife sales, the average customer does not care what the steel chemistry or carbon % is on the knife.

My person preference is the early pre 1983 knives with 440C. I have collected too many Buck 110 and fixed blades with the older steel,,,,if anyone on this board would like to try the old Buck 440C, e-mail me and I will sell a user knife for a very reasonable price. The 440c is a very high carbon % steel and higher chromium content than the newer alloys.

Regards,
FK
BCC #544 Life Member
 
There ya go. A man whose seen Buck's progress, or, rather, the progression.

440C is a better piece of steel. It is where I personally draw the line in blade steels, as it is below ATS-34 in edge holding, but is a good steel & offers superior corrosion resistance to nearly anything but Stellite/Talonite or CPM420V out there.

It offers better corrosion resistance vs. 420HC, and has enough carbon so that the free chrome and molybdenum can at least get some carbide action going. And it runs fine at Rc58-59. blahblahblah

My grandpa gave me a Buck 110 back in the mid 1970's. He bought it off a guy for something like $2-$3, I suspect the guy needed a bottle of booze. Heck, I think the 110 must've sold for $20 back then. One of my most cherished possessions actually.

Blade is marked only "BUCK, U.S.A."

So, question for FK: Not that it matters that much, cause it's a keeper for aforementioned reasons, but I take it that I can assume the blade steel on this is 440C ... ?


[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 02-18-2001).]
 
Originally posted by rdangerer:
it is below ATS-34 in edge holding, but is a good steel & offers superior corrosion resistance to nearly anything but Stellite/Talonite or CPM420V out there.
Although anyone can get a 110 in BG42 or ATS34 on the custom shop if that is the issue.


[
 
rdangerer,
Yes the 110 with your blade stamp is 440C.

The 110 stamping identification marks began with dots on either side of the 110. Two dots was used in 1978-1980, three dots in 1980-1982, this was last of the 440C steel blades. In late 1982-83 the blades with four dots were the new 425M steel. All of the early Buck 110 and 112 knives with the squared heavy brass frames/bolsters are 440C, the heavy squared brass with ..110.. are 425M, some of the 1983 square frames were made with hand rounded edges. In 1983+ to present the new frames with rounded edges are sintered brass (and nickel)formed in heavy pressure press operations. In 1986 the date stamping was introduced with symbols, the Buck site has details on the years and symbols used.

I have four older two dot and three dot 110 and one 112 two dot that I will not use. If anyone wants to compare the older models with new or wants a user, e-mail me for details. These are users requiring sharpening, cleaning with flitz or brasso and are very reasonably priced.

The Custom Shop 110 with BG42 is a bargain, now if they would just offer the 112 ???

The 110 started the lockback trend worldwide, an important piece of knife history that is still in production.

Regards,
FK
BCC #544 Life Member
 
People always attach carbon with edgeholding, HRC with edgeholding.....

That's not even close to the truth.
420HC is more stainless then 440C, and tougher. It's more like 12C27. And it defeniteley cuts better then AUS6.

It is unjustified to tell that one steel is worse then another. On the other hand, it is justified to tell that a certain steel performs worse then another in that situation. I used a Nighthawk several times to go diving (I made a kydex sheath for it first), and it is a very good steel, certainly if you keep the cost in mind.
Every steel has it's use, and no steel deserves to be scoffed at.

Counting all factors in (cost, workability, edgeholding, corrosionresistance, toughness), no-one can deny that 5160 and 52100 are simply the best steels. I use 'm frequently.

If you keep generally say that this is better then that, then try this : a Opinel is the best folder. No-one can deny that. It will outcut anything. Certainly if you keep in mind that I can get 10 Opinels for one 1 Buck 110, 20 for a Benchmade.

greetz, Bart.

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"If the world wouldn't SUCK, we'd all fall off !"

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bart student:
People always attach carbon with edgeholding, HRC with edgeholding.....
That's not even close to the truth.
</font>

It is difficult to debate on these forums, in ascii text. I'll let some known references do so for me.

I'll submit that of my references, other than personal experience, here is one that should be a reasonable reference, Wayne Goddard. Here is a guy who has made knives for something very near 30-31 years, stock removal and forging, still does both to this day. If you haven't read his book "Wonder of Knifemaking", then you may not appreciate his direct, honest, open-minded style in pursuit of performance. In any case, I quote from that book on page 152, with another respectable reference, Paul Bos, one familiar to Buck officionados:

"THE EFFECT OF HARDNESS ON EDGE-HOLDING ABILITY -- One of the tests that I did early on, with the help of Paul Bos, was to determine the effect on edgeholding as the hardness changed. Paul is a professional heat-treater and was interested in helping in these tests. We ran test batches of D-5, 154CM, and 440C, giving half the blades their normal working hardness, the other half were drawn back two points on the Rockwell C scale. The blades drawn back two points would cut 15% to 20% less, which surprised both of us. Later when comparing a blade with a hardness of 54 HRC to a blade of 60 HRC, I found the percentage loss held up. The steel that did 40 rope cuts at 60 HRC would do 30 cuts at 58 HRC, 20 cuts at 56 HRC, 10 cuts at 54 HRC, and at a hardness of 52 HRC, would hardly cut the rope one time."

"All test blades are prepared having a width of 1", a thickness of 1/8" and a length of 3-3/4". All blades are flat-ground to 0.20" at edge. Sharpening is done on Norton Fine India Stone, the wire edge (burr) being worked off with the stone. This gives a hair-shaving, long-lasting edge that has what I refer to as micro teeth. Slicing custs are made on a single strand of a 1" rope (a 3-strand 1" rope has 3 fat strands of say 3/8" each). Care is taken to use an equal section of blade from one knife to the other. The edge will bite into the rope strand when freshly sharpened, but as slicing continues there comes a point when the edge no longer is biting into the fibers, and this is when clicing is stopped and the number of cuts is recorded. The edge loses its ability to shave hair at about the same time as it loses its bite into the rope. Each blade is tested at least 3 times and the results are averaged."

I have no interest in debating hardness vs. edge holding here. The only SS type blade materials that come close to even minorly deviating from the above general test results are Stellite/Talonite (Cobalt/Chromium matrix of Rc 42-48, but loaded with Tungsten & Molybdenum carbides, both of which are in Rc 72-77 range) and some of the supersaturated CPM stuff (CPM440V and 420V)... the CPM's slicing longer than they should at softer hardness, and Talonite/Stellite testing soft because of the Rockwell tester's technique of pushing into the soft matrix and not registering the carbides, all the while Talonite/Stellite having tremendous abrasion resistance (related to slicing ability in fibrous/abrasive materials).

~~~~~~~~~~~~
On the subject of corrosion resistance, what typically improves it is free chrome. If the chrome is bound up with carbon as carbides, it does not seem to contribute to corrosion resistance. This is not a very clear relationship to me yet. E.g. CPM420V has 14% chrome but 9% vanadium and beats CPM440V in corrosion tests with 17% chrome and 5.5% vanadium. In this case, it's assumed that the extra vanadium in 420V binds with carbon leaving more chrome free.

However, I will say that after consulting another reference, the Crucible Tool Steel & Specialty Alloy Selector, I will graciously recant my early statement that 440C should beat 420HC in terms of corrosion resistance. According to Crucible, they even give 154CM/ATS-34 somewhat better corrosion resistance marks than 440C. This doesn't align with my own experiences (I have found light rust on my ATS-34 blades occasionally, whereas 440C I have not, but this isn't a controlled test either). I think most people in industry will say 440C has higher corrosion resistance than 154CM, but not Crucible. They also indicate that a "420Prem" that is fairly close to 420HC beats both 440C and 154CM in corrosion resistance. Sorry for the mis-information on this point. 420HC may well very more corrosion resistant than 440C.

I think what you can say is that most of the stainless steels that have more than 13% chrome (D2 runs 11-12% and will rust) are nearly always plenty corrosion resistant for anything most of us normally use blades for. Exceptions would be uncared-for salt-water fish fillet knives or dive knives.

I believe that this Buck forum has probably had an overdose of my input, so I will move on now, hoping I didn't ruffle too many feathers. Ciao.


[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 02-19-2001).]
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bart student:
Counting all factors in (cost, workability, edgeholding, corrosionresistance, toughness), no-one can deny that 5160 and 52100 are simply the best steels. I use 'm frequently.
greetz, Bart.
</font>

Ok, one more shot. If you count all five factors mentioned above, including corrosion resistance, then neither 5160 nor 52100 would be considered "best steels" as neither has much of ANY corrosion resistance compared with even a low-end near-stainless like D2. Certainly they are cheap, workable, 52100 produces a good edge, and both can be heat treated to be tough AND hold an edge if differentially heat treated. 5160 is at least very tough and cheap.

And that is the point. All steels excel in places, and are beaten in other areas. You can, given an application's requirements (toughness, edge/slicing ability, corrosion resistance, cost) find a good fit, a good balance, with SOME blade steel.

Moving along...
 
I don't usually post in this forum but what the heck, I'm a registered member so...here goes.

First off, there's nothing wrong with admiring superior steel. Why should there be? And second, there's nothing wrong with 420HC. It does the job and does it well. Is it top of the line? Not even close. Is it affordable and useable? Absolutely! Why do we have to get into such heated debates over this? I have some 420HC blades that do pretty well and a few AUS 6 blades that I'm kinda fond of. My Grohmann does not have the finest steel made in it but it's still one of my all time favorite knives. And I've done a fair amount of cutting with it. And when it gets dull, I just sharpen it.
smile.gif
Imagine that!


Does it make me feel more superior because I own some knives with superior steel? I find that kind of statement uncalled for and irrelevant. Why attack people for attacking steel? Makes no sense to me and it's a poor way to make a point. You can buy Buck knives with better steel can't you? Is there are problem with that or are would you be a snob for doing that? C'mon guys, lets avoid the personal attacks and talk about what's what. And Buck knives are great knives. My Vanguard is 420HC and it's a dandy fixed blade and a great buy.

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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
I've owned both the original 440C and current 420HC versions of the 110 lockback and I prefer the 420HC. Actually I found the 440C a pain in the backside. I have very high standards for edge sharpness and 440C never satisfied me.

I don't think my problems with 440C are simply the hardness. I own a lot of premium alloys that are up around 60 RC and that take much better edges. I think the problem is the very high chrome content of the 440C without any alloying elements that refine the grain structure (such as vanadium or tungsten).

The 420HC seems to be a purer alloy with more modest chrome content. Buck has learned to get a very fine grain structure via their heat treatment. I easily get a razor edge on 420HC and maintain it. I was constantly honing the 440C out of frustration with it never getting as sharp as I wanted.
 
...a $40 420HC 110 and a $10 stone. You can cut rope all day long. So what's the problem?

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Buck Collectors Club Member #1058
 
OK, OK, so 420HC will cut; 420HC will take a fine edge; 420HC is very corrosion resistant. Blah, blah, blah.... here's my opinion, and it is just an opinion. Take it that way and treat it for what it's worth.

I have an old Buck Duke from WAAAAY back. I want to say that it is late '70's, but it may have been the first couple of years of the 80's. It was certainly prior to 1984. That knife held the best edge of any knife that I had owned up to that point. I didn't know then what kind of steel it was, and I really don't remember now. From other threads and research, I think either 440A or 440C or 425M. Dunno, but I'm pretty danged certain it isn't 420HC. Anyway, back to the story. I liked this knife so much that I pledged myself to be a Buck user from then on. So after that I would only buy Buck knives. Well, over the years, I started to notice that they just didn't seem to hold up like that old Duke did. I assumed they changed the steel. Well, to make a short story long, I finally got tired of the way the steel was holding up, and started buying other knife brands. Yeah, I would still prefer to buy from Buck, but in the past 6 years the only non-BG42 Buck that I bought was a Duke, because I wanted to go back to that old pattern, and just couldn't find it anywhere else. So, I figured I could manage with the steel.

What I'm saying is the while I remain a Buck fan, and think they are overall my favorite knife company, their selection of steel for their user knives has left me looking for my knives from other companies.
frown.gif


THAT is what I think of 420HC steel. I hope Buck Knives doesn't take this the wrong way. It's just an honest opinion from a Buck fan. Every time I hear of another Buck in BG42, or even ATS-34, my mouth waters. Unfortunately, with the exception of the first release Striders, the only BG42 available is in the 110 (I already have the 532-2000 and the 192 MS, by the way) from the custom shop. I've already tried the 110 pattern, and just don't like it. So I'm waiting and hoping that the custom shop will start making other pattern available. Or waiting for that next limited run of BG42 whatevers....

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The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. - Ambrose Bierce
Most dog owners are at length able to teach themselves to obey their dog. - Robert Morley


iktomi
 
I would like to chip in if thats ok.

I used my Bucklite in 420HC to cut some 'fuzzsticks' to make the camp fire light. Well after doing about ten, the knife was very visably dulled and had those 'white' marks where the light shines on a dull edge, all over the knife. I turned to my larger Browning 708 (but I only used the non serrated part of the blade, so a fair test) and guess what? I cut a further 30+ fuzz sticks no problem. I then used the knife the rest of the day and when I got home, it needed a little work to bring the edge back, but nothing like the Bucklite.

The steel in the 708? Aus-8 a steel not often considered that good. I think 8a is the point to start at as well as 440C. Anything less is not really good enough for me. Oh and I own blades in 425, 420HC,440a,6M and 440C.

420HC is a cheap steel. Pure and simple. It is better than nothing. For very light use, I think it is ok. But I use my knives, thats why I pay a bit more.

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