A look into the Sarki's art...

Originally posted by texalp .....You might try silpat
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IIRC Silpat is pretty thick stuff.
Another silicon product is a pure silicon cooking sheets
(500 degree F) and forms with no fiber/cloth inside.
A local Drug Warehouse carries it, and Service Merchandise
once had it, Name of LLORENTE. Comes in different colors.
About 1/8 in thick I think.

A search for "llorente bake" turned up several references,
incl.:
http://microwavecooking.20m.com/Llorente.html
 
Thanks ddean!

I actually found a couple of sites that describe making puukko sheaths in great detail. It seems that often the bottom part has wood around the blade, which makes it easier to shrink the leather tightly around the handle, as the top of the wood is the same shape as the handle. They can be pretty much like little khuk scabbards except the leather extends up past the wood to encase the handle.

I think I'll try this design, solves the corrosion issue, and it may be good practice if I ever have to get at the guts of a khuk scabbard.

I'll remeber this baking aid if I make a flat sheath though.
 
Out of my league, but may be refinishing a S&W mahogany box a 6&1/2" N frame came in, inside fitted and lined for a few things precious to me.
 
Originally posted by Ferrous Wheel
Anyone interested on a report (with pics) on the Sarkis construction methods?

I plan to photodocument the whole process of reassembling the thing with new leather, a kydex liner, and a few of my special design experiments (example: involving double-sided foam tape to affix lo-friction plastic in the sheath for a tight fit without sacrificing quick draw). Another thing I will address is that the 2xkardas and the awl kind brushg against each other when going on or out of the sheath, so I will isolate each tool in its own kydex 'mini-sheath.'
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I would love to see a full tutorial, if you don't mind. With explanations, etc. If it meets Uncle Bill's approval, we should consider putting on the website.

Beoram = your thoughts?
 
"What's this low-friction plastic?"--Firkin
Well, I call it that because it was part of a fitness rig a buddy was getting rid of. It was like a 3-6 foot sheet of plastic, 2mm thick. One side is textured for grip on a floor surface, the other side is smooth and slippery feeling. The rig was used with socks or special overshoes that were slippery, and you could do some sort of skating back and forth on the thing to work your legs or some-such. When he was tossing it, I said "hey, that'll make a good liner for scabbards!" which it did.

Unfortunately for this scabbard project, 2mm is too thick to line the scabbard. So, I'm either gonna use some nice wool, see how that works, or some .5mm thick kydex as the liner.
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UPDATE*UPDATE*UPDATE*UPDATE*UPDATE*UPDATE*
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Alright, I have gotten about halfway thru the project, and I will be sharing my notes with all of you soon. Here's what I've got so far:

1. Pics of wooden scabbard forms
2. Pics of the new tool sheaths, which have leather collars but kydex bottom sheaths
3. A handful of tacks, leather bits, from original scabbard.
4. Some improvements to the tool keeper panel, which was originally wood, but I replaced it with a piece of plastic.

Now, the sarki who made this sheath probably did so in a few hours (he's a pro), and I'm exceeding that time frame by a factor of two already. I would say that unless you have a serious issue with the scabbard, and you are a fairly experienced leather worker, don't try this at home. Youu might end up with a pile of junk and no place to store your khuk.

I was very careful to remove the stitching from the leather scabbard cover, just in case I could not improve on their design and had to reaffix their scabbard cover.

Anyhow, Should have pix posted near the end of the week, next week at the latest. I will send some scans of my design notes, if anyone is interested. They include my sketches and goals of this project.

Stay tuned!

Keith
 
Ferrous Wheel, I will be looking forward to see the pix of your work. I'm in the process of doing the same to the scabbard of my YCS and I would need some input on how to make the whole rig flatter. This would be the 4th Khuk scabbard I work on and I would like to do something slightly different from the traditional pattern.
Ciao
Fausto
 
...of my conceptual drawings up today. That should at least show Fausto the lay-flat design from at least two angles. Then I'll follow with pics next week, when my Bro gets back with the pics.

The conceptual drawings might be of interest to you as well Fausto, as they show some alternate patternings for the scabbard. Some are made for easy takedown and replacement of parts that may wear, and they have a more primitive feel.

Keith
 
Keith,
I've finished the other day a scabbard for my HIKK (Kenpo Khukri). I've used the existing wooden core of the old scabbard and cover it with some nice 3 mm thick brown cowhide. The scabbard is a finnish type stitched and riveted on the short side. The leather covers 4/5 of the handle and the retainer is a leather strap that goes around the handle closing the leather flaps around it. I will post pix next week when I will complete the mods on the knife handle (shortened and reshaped froma spike end to a hammer end).
I'm going to wait for you to post your drawings before I start on the YCS ;)
Ciao
Fausto
 
To all:
I didn't realize that a sign on was required to view albums (it didn't say anything on the share album form). Any suggestion for a different photo host?
Fausto
 
Fancy stuff, Fausto!

I've finished the YCS sheath, and I will have pics and schematics up next week, when my brother (the photoguy) gets back from a Business trip to Juarez.
The Lay-flat design wored like a charm, and I used some 3-4 mm aged leather (meaning I had my dad's old Hi-School 1950's jacket with leather sleeves) for the outer (recycle!).
I also used the wooden form, but discarded the wooden flap from the tool keeper, as much of the width of the rig came from that.
I also was able to make it a 'lefty' rig, with the option of switching the frog around for righties.
As my YCS is the fancy model withthe diamods/yin&yang, I painted the sheath with acrylics to match.
I also did not use the chape, as I used a seam around the entire edge of the sheath (so I could do designs on both sides). I'll reuse it on another sheath project.
I lined the throat of the sheath with rattlesnake skin, which looks really cool.

Pix next week!

Keith
En Ferro Veritas
 
Originally posted by firkin
I actually found a couple of sites that describe making puukko sheaths in great detail. It seems that often the bottom part has wood around the blade...
Click to expand...
mine only have plastic...:confused: :(

Fausto = what's the weight of that sheath?
 
Sorry for late reply guys,
Ken, your scabbard sounds like real fancy stuff!!! Can't wait to see the pix:D
Pen, the scabbard is not that much heavier than the original H.I. I've just put it on a cooking scale and it reads 300 grams.
As soon as Ken will post his pix I will start working on the new one for the YCS.
Ciao
Fausto
 
Originally posted by pendentive


I would love to see a full tutorial, if you don't mind. With explanations, etc. If it meets Uncle Bill's approval, we should consider putting on the website.

Beoram = your thoughts?
Click to expand...


I'm interested too - but perhaps it might be better on teh Khukuri FAQ site? There's more of that sort of stuff there...
 
I made a sheath for a WWI Mk I khukuri some months ago. Everyone ooh'ed and aah'd when they saw the pix, but I know how I struggled. The thing that really got me impressed about the sarki's way of sheath making, is the small difference between blade width and sheath width. (If you understand what I mean!) I realise in my sheath's case I could have been a bit more precise. I'm sure I've got too much sheath width compared to the sarki's. I'd love to open up a sarki's sheath to see how the blighters actually get it so close! Does the wood actually go right around?
 
Johan:

Yes, the sheath fits so close I'm pretty sure the kami has the khuk with him for fitting. I found that the tolerances on either side of the blade are pretty tight, as I originally wanted to line the sheath with some 1-2mm plastic sheet, and had to go on to the thinner kydex, (.5mm) just to get it to work.

"a full tutorial"--Pen, Beoram: I'll see what I can do. I can only share my experience, I cannot endorse what I've done as "the way" to do it, just one man's way. I don't think the kamis would use strapping tape to hold the wood forms in place for instance, but I did.

I'm currently scanning my notes from the design process. Would anyone volunteer to post them if I send them to you in .JPEG format?

Keith
En Ferro Veritas.
 
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