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Alone

Discussion in 'Survive! Knives' started by XtianAus, May 24, 2016.

  1. XtianAus

    XtianAus Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 3, 2016
    Interesting read, thanks SN :thumbup:
     
  2. Silver Needle

    Silver Needle

    Jul 14, 2014
    I hope you enjoy it. I was really glad to see someone who took the time to figure out the knives and research some information on them. If you don't really pay close attention it can be hard to see what people are using. The show or website never specifically mention brands.
     
  3. redwood22

    redwood22 Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 23, 2014
  4. supertac916

    supertac916

    603
    Sep 6, 2014
    Yep, thanks Silver! I was trying to figure out what knives each of them were carrying too. When is Survive! going to make it's debut on Alone? I think some of you guys should do it. :)
     
  5. redwood22

    redwood22 Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 23, 2014
    If I thought I wouldn't starve to death I'd jump at the opportunity haha.
     
  6. supertac916

    supertac916

    603
    Sep 6, 2014
    Lol... Just pack on an extra 80lbs before you go. I actually think that's one of the reasons he won season 3. Had a lot higher BMI to start and didn't get pulled like the Calleigh and Dan.
     
  7. redwood22

    redwood22 Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 23, 2014
    Haha I did think that was a reasonable survival strategy, BBQ ever night for a month wouldn't be bad either
     
  8. OBX351

    OBX351 Gold Member Gold Member

    Sep 29, 2014
    Thanks for posting these SN! I looked at the ones in season 2 but not 3. Some interesting knife choices. Not that I have anything against Mora Knives, I own several, but I think I would much rather have a higher end knife for that much isolation. The Cold Steel spade is surprising. It does chop well and can cut but it's pretty bulky. I'd love to see a GSO in the mix.
     
  9. Silver Needle

    Silver Needle

    Jul 14, 2014
    Absolutely my pleasure, guys. I find this stuff really interesting. I'm thankful to the person who put it all together! What a cool resource.

    I know!

    I'll even do this with movies. "Oh that looks just like... let me pause it here... I think it might....... yep it's some dumb prop knife........."

    OBX, I agree. When camping or backpacking I think having a knife to use only for light cutting jobs makes a lot of sense. If I were alone in the wilderness for an extended stay, even with an axe and sawn I'd want a knife that can do many things. Like I said before, I think a GSO 6 would be perfect for this.
     
  10. Standard78

    Standard78 Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 25, 2015
    Cool stuff SN!
    I do the same thing whenever I'm watching shows and a knife pops up!
     
  11. Karoi

    Karoi Unobtanium Member Gold Member

    843
    Sep 7, 2014
    Thanks for sharing SN!

    It's amazing to see the diversity of knife choices. Pity no one went with a S!K though.
     
  12. chiral.grolim

    chiral.grolim Universal Kydex Sheath Extension Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 2, 2008
    Bumping this thread to present what I did to my 5.1 in another thread to test whether one could patina CPM-3V. I'm putting it in this thread because post #65 is where i really started.
    Here is a link to the thread where the fun continued: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/patina-time.1518377/

    And here is what happened:
    They didn't have B&C Super Blue at my local hardware store, but they did have "PermaBlue" and I happened to have some acids where I work, so I took along my 3V GSO-5.1 as well as a Kershaw Echo in 8Cr13MoV (one of my few non-USA blades) as a stainless "control".
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    I wiped down the tangs with ethanol to clean/de-grease the surface, then tried swabbing each of the substances over a small area... While I could smell the strong acids (including the Perma Blue) trying to work, there was only some tiny freckling appearing on the 3V surface after 5-10 minutes and nothing on the 8Cr13MoV.

    So I took the strong acid (HCl with normality 12 - this stuff will burn you something fierce) and swabbed it over a larger area and THEN swabbed the Perma Blue and...

    Tah-Dah!!!
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  13. chiral.grolim

    chiral.grolim Universal Kydex Sheath Extension Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 2, 2008
    As you can see, I could even discolor the "stainless" steel, although the B&C bottle specifically states that the solution is not made to 'blue' stainless materials *shrug*

    Now, note that this was just a quick job of the 12-normal HCl (probably removed residual grease?) followed by the Blue with a Cue-tip, you might have a more even result using a rag, steel-wool, gauze, etc. and perhaps increasing the temperature. I went over the surface again with the acid and you could go over it again with the Perma Blue to perhaps even-out and darken the color. But the main point is, it works :thumbsup: I am not sure that it will give you any real added protection from corrosion as this stuff is already pretty rust-resistant, but it may be aestheitcally pleasing to some :)

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  14. chiral.grolim

    chiral.grolim Universal Kydex Sheath Extension Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 2, 2008
    A couple shots of my blade with the darker-shade and line from the 4hr vinegar bath and the tang with the blue-treatment:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    XtianAus likes this.
  15. Fancier

    Fancier

    Jul 1, 2012
    Hydrochloric acid is a good choice if you want to create corrosion, especially on a stainless steel.
    That particular acid is good at stripping metal surfaces and leaving a reactive surface.
    Thumbs up for science! :)
     
    chiral.grolim likes this.
  16. chiral.grolim

    chiral.grolim Universal Kydex Sheath Extension Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 2, 2008
    It sure helped here! Anybody looking to do something similar to their own 3V, I recommend heating up the metal beforehand and perhaps using degreased 0000 steel wool. I've read online a preference for Brownells Oxpho-Blue over the B&C stuff on gun-parts, but I think the goal there is to have a nice uniform finish rather than a more random patina. B&C also sells this stuff as a paste, so one could create a patterned patina as I've seen folks on BF do with basic carbon steels and things like mustard :)
     

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