Belt Sander Setup

B bgentry

I've given this approach a try on a bunch of serrated edges - very shallow form the back and deburr from the front. The biggest challenge is to deburr without smoothing things out too much, or spending too much time on a buffing wheel that the inside of the scallop starts to dub. Whatever you use also needs to fit multiple cutouts, so either needs to be very thin and firm, or more of an area effect buffing wheel with some fairly specific characteristics.

I tried the edge on a leather belt and while it worked it also looked like it was going to trash the edge of my belt - also not easy to hit the scallop evenly.

Ultimately a sisal wheel with very light hit of compound worked the best across a range of cutouts. If used with no compound it just pushes the burr back and forth, a light hit of abrasive takes the burr off clean without unduly effecting the transition tips. It can also be used to retouch the outside, but a leather belt at the original angle worked a little better.

Resulting edges shave armhair, crossgrain pushcut copy paper, gnaw through double wall cardboard. Cosmetically the backside gets a little worked, IDK if this method would be acceptable with coated blades without making things very clear w/ owner first. For serrated utility edges and bread knives is darn fast and effective once you get the hang of it. Have tried this before and never really found the best way to deburr quickly and cleanly.
 
B bgentry Whatever you use also needs to fit multiple cutouts, so either needs to be very thin and firm, or more of an area effect buffing wheel with some fairly specific characteristics.

The KnifeGrinders.com.au equipment list includes 3M Radial Bristle Discs for this purpose. They're expensive however so I haven't tried them yet. (Watch the pricing; it takes half a dozen discs make one brush unit.)
 
The KnifeGrinders.com.au equipment list includes 3M Radial Bristle Discs for this purpose. They're expensive however so I haven't tried them yet. (Watch the pricing; it takes half a dozen discs make one brush unit.)
6" sisal wheel that came with a 18 dollar Ryobi buffing kit work great.
 
Thanks for the input Martin. It's always appreciated when you do.

I'm going to experiment with my scotchbrite belts; probably the Very Fine at first. That belt works remarkably well for deburring regular edges. The corner of leather works well for me. I've only done about 5 serrated blades on it so far, but they slice phonebook paper and shave a little hair. Which I consider to be exceptional for serrated blades.

Brian
 
The KnifeGrinders.com.au equipment list includes 3M Radial Bristle Discs for this purpose. They're expensive however so I haven't tried them yet. (Watch the pricing; it takes half a dozen discs make one brush unit.)

I tried the discs... my .02 is, it didn't work that great. Other ideas presented here are mucho better. ;)
 
I've mentioned that I'm using an angle guide on my Kalamazoo. I have a production ready model made by a third party that I've been using for several weeks. Here's a video describing it.


I've had very good results with it and am happy to own it. I'm not associated with the maker; just enthusiastic about using it and decided to make a video showing it, since I own one of only a handful that have been shipped so far.

Brian.
 
B bgentry Thanks for the video. Interesting that with the rest you still have to deal with blade scratching like the Edge Pro table. HeavyHanded's jig avoids this.
 
The inventor of the KallyRest, Mark, tells me that he has never scratched a blade using his. I have, but I've also done a bunch of grinding with the guide in place. The time that I'm sure I scratched a blade, I think I had just ground a BUNCH of metal off of a machete. I wasn't using the guide, but I left it attached while I did it, which got metal dust on the rest.

Anyway, it's kind of no big deal. Apply tape, sharpen blade. Remove tape later. Repeat.

Not to denigrate Martin's (HeavyHanded) creation in any way. I'm sure his guide is really nice. Some day maybe I will sharpen as well as he does. :)

Brian.
 
I love my guided system, but it took a ton of incremental rigamaroll to get it working right- is definitely not "conventional"
. And some knives don't align well in it because the blade is warped, twisted, or bent relative to the handle. It can cope with all that, but takes more setup time.

I don't know how well it would work on a vertical system, but am very happy with it on a horizontal one.
 
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