BHQ Para2 black CPM-M4, jade scales

I have had wonderful success (I'm talking 90%+ success rate) getting PM2's to have zero play and still drop free with a simple disasseble/reassemble.

This is totally conjecture here, but I have a feeling spyderco uses a jig of some type to aid in the process of assembly. In my opinion, if the pivot bushing is not totally plum/square with the jig, it can cause it to be slightly off which causes binding. In order to prevent the binding, we loosen the pivot to aid in the action. Only problem with that is now the pivot has play.

When you completely pull the blade/bushing out and reassemble carefully, in my experience the bushing is now totally square and the action is MUCH improved almost every single time. Spyderco's machining is incredibly accurate now, and most knives can be dialed in. I have many PM2s from the 2011 era that just can't be dialed in no matter what, thanks to the growing pains they had with machining.

Anyway, I could do a detailed video showing the process if anyone was interested. I already did one for the new CQI military that almost guarantees a centered blade and drop free action with no play. That one works 90%+ of the the time also.

This is very informative, thx.:thumbsup: I wonder if you can share your experience of eliminating lock stickiness of Spyderco Military, specifically the kw exclusive s90v ti/cf model. It is not severe but it is thete. When I disassembled the onife, I only removed the screws on the lock side and slided the two scales away pivoted at the lanyard tube. Its now centered no play and free droping, but just somewhat sticky.
 
This is very informative, thx.:thumbsup: I wonder if you can share your experience of eliminating lock stickiness of Spyderco Military, specifically the kw exclusive s90v ti/cf model. It is not severe but it is thete. When I disassembled the onife, I only removed the screws on the lock side and slided the two scales away pivoted at the lanyard tube. Its now centered no play and free droping, but just somewhat sticky.

Clean the tang of the blade off with some alcohol and a q-tip. A lot of times, oil on the lockface and blade tang will make the lock stick.
 
This is very informative, thx.:thumbsup: I wonder if you can share your experience of eliminating lock stickiness of Spyderco Military, specifically the kw exclusive s90v ti/cf model. It is not severe but it is thete. When I disassembled the onife, I only removed the screws on the lock side and slided the two scales away pivoted at the lanyard tube. Its now centered no play and free droping, but just somewhat sticky.


With PM2's with sticky locks, I have had luck with loosening the two screws holding the stop pin in place, and physically rotating the stop pin. The re-tighten the screws of course.

Sometimes the very slight differences in dimension on the stop pin and stop a sticky lock.
 
Following up to P2P's suggestions on the previous page regarding some tweaks to possibly correct slightly off center blades: sadly it did not work for me at my skill level. The next stage will be a complete disassembly but other than that the PM2 works well and I may just postpone a complete take down service till it is really necessary.
 
Update:

A complete take down, wipe down, fresh lube and then reassembly did NOT correct the off centered blade but made the action a lot smoother (free dropping blade) and the very, very slight side-to-side blade play is now gone. The slight off centered blade and the one Casey Lynch screw which keeps getting loose (too short) have left me with a neutral experience with this PM2 and BHQ. This DLC-M4 PM still remains as a keeper
 
Update:

A complete take down, wipe down, fresh lube and then reassembly did NOT correct the off centered blade but made the action a lot smoother (free dropping blade) and the very, very slight side-to-side blade play is now gone. The slight off centered blade and the one Casey Lynch screw which keeps getting loose (too short) have left me with a neutral experience with this PM2 and BHQ. This DLC-M4 PM still remains as a keeper

From the handle side, look down the spine of the blade and make the sure the blade is ground evenly. Sometimes, there are those moments when the spine of a knife can be ground unevenly, causing it to appear off-center when between the handles. And there are some instances where the blade just will not center, no matter what you do. Does it affect function? No But does it tic us OCD folks? Definitely!

I don't know what methods you have tried, but I have a few of my own, including a book, that seem to center the blade 90% of the time. No loosening of screws required. Shoot me a PM if you're still interested...
 
From the handle side, look down the spine of the blade and make the sure the blade is ground evenly. Sometimes, there are those moments when the spine of a knife can be ground unevenly, causing it to appear off-center when between the handles. And there are some instances where the blade just will not center, no matter what you do. Does it affect function? No But does it tic us OCD folks? Definitely!

I don't know what methods you have tried, but I have a few of my own, including a book, that seem to center the blade 90% of the time. No loosening of screws required. Shoot me a PM if you're still interested...

Thx Jonny. The grind seems to be even. I'm not too worried about it but had made a note to report back. If you have some nifty tricks which you'd like to share with me, please LMK. Otherwise, this is not a life altering "disaster" LOL :)
 
With PM2's with sticky locks, I have had luck with loosening the two screws holding the stop pin in place, and physically rotating the stop pin. The re-tighten the screws of course.

Sometimes the very slight differences in dimension on the stop pin and stop a sticky lock.
This has worked for me as well :thumbsup:
 
In looking at a couple photos of the new jade handles, are they lighter than the ones on the the satin m4 PM2? They seem more white, less green. Anyone else?
 
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