- Joined
- Apr 7, 2012
- Messages
- 319
Here's the latest update on my build with a few pictures. I was supposed to pick up the bike today but looks like tomorrow or Monday now...ohh well.
Hi Tucker,
I tried to get the bike done tonight, but it will be another day of building. It’s looking really really good. Some friends stopped by, that are fat bikers and they were impressed with the bike. They especially liked how all the colours go together and also the components. The Shimano SLX parts are really top notch. I think my next bike will have them.
Today I was able to reseat the tires from tubes and convert to tubeless. Added sealant. They held air on the first try. Sometimes, they leak for a weak if you rush it out of the box and the tires still have fold kinks in them. I let them lay flat for a day unfolded, then mounted them tubed for a day at 30PSI to form into the rim beads… then went tubeless today and zero air loss. Taking in a process, allows them to seal better.
Brakes – cut the lines, so they look all nice and aligned now. Centered the rotors and pads. Bled the brakes and adjusted the clamping force and lever positions so both right and left are in unison… usually no one does that last steps, except for race-spec applications.
Torques – All bolts throughout the bike were re-torqued to specs.
Crankset – It’s installed precisely to spec and no play at all. If done hastily, this type of crank could expand a bit and you’d get play in the spacers within a few days of riding. I made sure it is not going to happen. The trick is to get the spacers torqued just right, so they compress within 0.5mm of a certain number across the frame bottom bracket dropouts.
Suspension fork. I toyed with measurements a few times, from what I took off your bike, and mine, and your body dimensions and found that if I changed the spacers in the headset, that I think we can get a full 110mm out of the fork travel, without having to reduce it to 100mm for full steering control. I will let you test it out and if you want it lower, I can always take it apart and change it… The goal is to get the bars just a bike lower than the seat post, with the way you had your last bike setup and how you liked the setup on mine.
Dropper post – still need to install and configure. As I mentioned before, there were several heights to chose from. I gave Fatback the numbers, and wanted maximum available space used, without it running into the frame seat collar. We are going to get that to within 1in of max travel … which means you will get up to 15cm of dropper post “drop” when needed. This is the max possible and perfectly fits with the frame selection.
Drivetrain. It’s installed, but needs to be configured and chain added. Then shifting needs to be tuned.
Then add the saddle, and some test pedals and I take it for a test ride and then call you when it’s ready… so I am thinking Sunday it should be ready by around noon, as I have an event I need to attend on Saturday in Hamilton/McMaster. Then family dinner.
Hi Tucker,
I tried to get the bike done tonight, but it will be another day of building. It’s looking really really good. Some friends stopped by, that are fat bikers and they were impressed with the bike. They especially liked how all the colours go together and also the components. The Shimano SLX parts are really top notch. I think my next bike will have them.
Today I was able to reseat the tires from tubes and convert to tubeless. Added sealant. They held air on the first try. Sometimes, they leak for a weak if you rush it out of the box and the tires still have fold kinks in them. I let them lay flat for a day unfolded, then mounted them tubed for a day at 30PSI to form into the rim beads… then went tubeless today and zero air loss. Taking in a process, allows them to seal better.
Brakes – cut the lines, so they look all nice and aligned now. Centered the rotors and pads. Bled the brakes and adjusted the clamping force and lever positions so both right and left are in unison… usually no one does that last steps, except for race-spec applications.
Torques – All bolts throughout the bike were re-torqued to specs.
Crankset – It’s installed precisely to spec and no play at all. If done hastily, this type of crank could expand a bit and you’d get play in the spacers within a few days of riding. I made sure it is not going to happen. The trick is to get the spacers torqued just right, so they compress within 0.5mm of a certain number across the frame bottom bracket dropouts.
Suspension fork. I toyed with measurements a few times, from what I took off your bike, and mine, and your body dimensions and found that if I changed the spacers in the headset, that I think we can get a full 110mm out of the fork travel, without having to reduce it to 100mm for full steering control. I will let you test it out and if you want it lower, I can always take it apart and change it… The goal is to get the bars just a bike lower than the seat post, with the way you had your last bike setup and how you liked the setup on mine.
Dropper post – still need to install and configure. As I mentioned before, there were several heights to chose from. I gave Fatback the numbers, and wanted maximum available space used, without it running into the frame seat collar. We are going to get that to within 1in of max travel … which means you will get up to 15cm of dropper post “drop” when needed. This is the max possible and perfectly fits with the frame selection.
Drivetrain. It’s installed, but needs to be configured and chain added. Then shifting needs to be tuned.
Then add the saddle, and some test pedals and I take it for a test ride and then call you when it’s ready… so I am thinking Sunday it should be ready by around noon, as I have an event I need to attend on Saturday in Hamilton/McMaster. Then family dinner.
