CLOSED PRE-ORDER CPK Keffeler Competition Cutter

Just a heads up. Whomever makes your sheath, make sure that you can put your hand through the lanyard without having to partially unsheathed the blade and the sheath must have two ways of securing the blade.

I get the lanyard before unsheathing part, but can you elaborate why the sheath *must* have two means of securing the blade?

Not debating, just really curious. Is that a bladesports rule?
 
I had training and my first competition two weeks ago. They informed us that sheaths had to have two means of retaining the blade in the sheath. I don't know anymore than that. You could email Donavon Phillips at bigdknives at gmail dought com to get specifics.
 
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Thanks. I think I understand what they want. I’m guessing you just need to have a proper grip on knife (hand through lanyard before unsheathing. Understandable in today’s can’t be too safe world. Thanks for the help.
on another note...
I gotta say , I’ve bought a lot of knives throughout the years. This is the sharpest knife I have ever received. I couldn’t help myself but to slice all the packaging within the first minute I had it. Great job CPK.
 
on another note...
I gotta say , I’ve bought a lot of knives throughout the years. This is the sharpest knife I have ever received.

Thank you, I'm doing these myself. That level of sharpness is "race ready". Obviously you have to practice but you'll need to get it back to that level to race.


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The knives have to be very sharp to be competitive, it can be the difference between first place and 5th. Straws are worth 5 points and there are often two. Rope, paper (sheet, tube etc) need a fiendishly sharp knife.

We're using V4E because it can go though the wood targets and maintain that freaky sharp edge better than anything we've tested and still hold up to the impacts from the hard hits without chipping out in thin sections.
 
Nathan,

What is the edge bevel in degrees on the racing edge? For resharpening purposes. Thanks.
 
All I’m doing with mine, so far, is fooling around, but it’s IMPRESSIVE to work with. I have to rethink a number of things when using it.

I have a 1/4” sheet of sacrificial plywood for the cutting surface on my newly-made tennis ball/golf ball ramp. I keep cutting THROUGH the sacrificial sheet while I’m cutting the targets. Moving to solid 1/2” plywood to see if this helps.
 
Lol, accidentally cutting through everything isn't such a bad problem to have;). I can't wait to get my hands on mine, but I'm WAY down on the list so it's probably going to be a bit.

~Chip
 
Austin bought a practice competition table from a former competitor. Big D helped him make the connection.

He has been practicing for 2 months now. As soon as his competition chopper gets here, he will ramp up and sign up for the first event he can.

Glad to hear it's that good.
 
All I’m doing with mine, so far, is fooling around, but it’s IMPRESSIVE to work with. I have to rethink a number of things when using it.

I have a 1/4” sheet of sacrificial plywood for the cutting surface on my newly-made tennis ball/golf ball ramp. I keep cutting THROUGH the sacrificial sheet while I’m cutting the targets. Moving to solid 1/2” plywood to see if this helps.


Even with another knife, Austin has found that 5/8 or 3/4 is what is needed. Same reason. What do others use? Also, who can make this type sheath?
 
I have a few of these 1/2x3" boards that I cut to 32" (official length) long. Screwed it down on a 2x4. Works good and is taking the whacks pretty good so far.

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Here's the second level of retention that Jo Smith put on the sheath he made for my CC. It attaches the strap to the back of the sheath.

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I just picked up a sheet of 1/2” plywood to try for the ‘sacrificial’ piece. A solid board may end up being more resilient. Guess we shall see!


Need to make a sheath for mine, too. Not sure where I’ll head, yet.

I have to find someone to fabricate the board clamps necessary for all the 2x4 cuts. No welder, here.
 
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