You don't think the 20 degree edge angle is good enough to prevent chipping?
Speculating, I would guess the factory edge process led to the chip. Do you think that is a reasonable guess?
The 20cv is fine, yes, there are better steels specific to more durablity but come with trade offs, Always trade offs.
I think this thread can pick a part endless details and still go no where.
At the end of the day, just use it and see.
If it chips, go thicker on the edge angle.
If it seems like the thicker edge angle doesn't cut as good it's cause it's too thick.
Go thinner and use it better, avoid making edge contact with things that damage the edge.
That's the reality of it all and the choices we make, no magic steel is immune, better steel just will enhance the experience.
That's why sharpening is an important skill to learn if you're a very demanding user, you can fine tune the angles and finish to your desire and use.
All things have there limits.
No steel is invincible, tougher steels always seem to imply to newer folks that they are the exception to the rule, but they still blunt and dull and don't cut as long and round over easy in the context of a very, very sharp, crisp edge when a tougher, shock resistant type steel is pressed out of its role. All these steels have their strengthes and weaknesses but nothing is always the best fit for everyone or everything, cost is also a variable, some steels do lots of stuff better but cost alot more.
It's nice to be able to synergize the entire blade geometry to a given use and preference and find the steel and heat treatment that maximizes it.
But that's more custom knife world stuff.
With production knives you get what you get and you just have to use your judgement on what has the geometry that suits your demands and the ability to change up the edge angles and edge finish to enhance your preferences.
20cv is good stuff, premium steel designed to cut a good long while.
