Crosscut Saw Thread

If you look at the tooth closest to the heel of that 48" Disston, you will see what the original tooth profile looked like. Most casual filers will not reprofile when sharpening their saws, as it's time consuming. But by not doing that, the teeth will become squatty. I'm guessing you could put a chainsaw file in the U between the two heel teeth, but that separation was absent from most of the others when you first started. The last plain tooth saw I filed, I cut all teeth to the same length and shape and used a round file to establish the bottom depth between the teeth. I also ran a wood screw into a small block of wood to use as a depth gauge to keep them all consistent.


Thank you trailtime!
The chainsaw file is something I want to do in the gullets I just did not know if that was the right thing to do. I would definetly like to make the teeth as uniform in height and profile as possible.
Would you be able to describe more what you mean and how you use the wood screw in the block as a depth gauge?

Thank you!
I anticipate some available saw time tomorrow :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I have a little more jointing to do, to get all the teeth at the same height with a bit of flat at the apex to work with.

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Then it sounds like I should use the round chainsaw file to make a uniform depth and gullet for each cutter.

Then reprofile the cutters and lastly set their set.

Please anyone step in and correct me if needed;)

I wish I could get out there now and commit a few hours at a stretch!
 
Hey Miller, enjoying your documentation of your x-cut saw adventures here.

Just playing around this morning with your picture of the peg tooth you are filing:



I scaled the ruler to set the tooth spacing to 5/8". This may not apply to your saw. I only used that dimension because that is the spacing on my 36" peg tooth (posted earlier in this thread). I'm not sure of what you have in mind, but I am wondering if your are looking to end up with a 60 degree tooth as I have illustrated? It seem a little wide to me. My saw has approx. 38 degree teeth and 3/4" deep gullets. Since my knowledge is very limited, I hope others will comment.


Bob

Page #30, posts 584 &593


My saw looks to need little or no jointing. The depth of the "heel" to the first tooth (yellow line) is pretty much the same. All the gullets are flat at the bottom. I don't know if that is the case with other peg saws. The included angle of each tooth is approx. 38 degrees. The gullets are 3/4 " deep. The distance between each tooth point is 5/8".

I probably should have been more detailed about why I said "My saw looks to need little or no jointing." in my response to Miller'72 (post #584). So I will try to explain more as a caveat to that post. I wanted to somehow convey the condition of my saw as I thought it would be relevant to the dimensions provided. The less used and sharpened a saw is the closer the teeth will be to the original. I did not want to say (and did not say) flat out that my saw does not need jointing. To joint or not is really a judgement made by the owner / filer. I wish that readers interested could actually handle and examine my plate and come to their own evaluation. IDK if this will help, but here is the whole plate:

 
Hey Miller, enjoying your documentation of your x-cut saw adventures here.

Just playing around this morning with your picture of the peg tooth you are filing:



I scaled the ruler to set the tooth spacing to 5/8". This may not apply to your saw. I only used that dimension because that is the spacing on my 36" peg tooth (posted earlier in this thread). I'm not sure of what you have in mind, but I am wondering if your are looking to end up with a 60 degree tooth as I have illustrated? It seem a little wide to me. My saw has approx. 38 degree teeth and 3/4" deep gullets. Since my knowledge is very limited, I hope others will comment.


Bob

Page #30, posts 584 &593

Thank you first and foremost for the kind words. It pleases me that you also enjoy the pictorial journey I am taking and I for one am having a great time.

Your picture overlay work is amazing and extremely helpful, and will be a great reference for future saws as well, thank you for that!

My tooth spacing, gullet width, is now all becoming 5/8" with the chainsaw file, that seemed to be the exact width of the teeth at the heel.
I used the few last/first teeth at the heel also to gauge the depth I wanted, using 1/2" as that was what seemed to be near/nearest original.
As for the angle of the cutters...I too have been wondering if 60° would be to wide, and have been looking to the 36"plain tooth I have. It's teeth look closer a 30 or 40° angle profile and it does cut very well for its size.

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I will need to get an exact on the other saws teeth angles and compare, decide.

Thanks again Bob I truly appreciate the encouragement!

I went out this morning for about 4 hours and started cleaning up after the noreaster winds we had here the past few days.
Got to put to use my axe and saw:thumbsup::cool:

I will get some pictures posted up asap.

I brought out my 48" Charlene...champion tooth and my Rogers Connie & my red stripe Legitimus Connie...everyone out performed my expectations!

...I also got a few long inquisitive stares from passerby joggers ;):cool:
 
I went out this morning for a little nor'easter - high winds clean up.

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I brought two Connies, 3lb Legitimus and 4&1/8lb Rogers Very Best, and Charlene my 48" Champion Tooth Disston.

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The saw and axes performed excellently without any issue.
We had a great time this morning!
 
Winter Exercise. Last fall before the ground turned from dust to mud I retrieved about 3 cords worth of dead and down logs. I'd better hurry up if I'm going to get them done before better weather. Using my hard luck saw.

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Very impressive undertaking and awesome outcome. You laid the project out, very informative reading and well described processes even I undsrstood.
Thank you for sharing sir.

Is that a Model T wheel spoke supplement handle?

I'd say you have a little firewood to tend, wow!


:thumbsup:
 
Looks like there's exercise to be had just getting the logs on the sawbuck.
I cheated in getting the logs pulled out and into the barn. I fell and bucked all the logs with crosscut and axe but used my little tractor to skid the logs out of the woods and into the barn. Getting on the sawbuck is pretty easy, just roll them up a couple planks.
Skidding:
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Loading:
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