Daniel Fairly's Q&A thread

Is a drill press a must for drilling through Ti? I don't have one =/
I do have cobalt bits and Ti-Nitride coated ones.
 
Is it 6AL4V? I've never drilled that alloy but it's harder than Commercially Pure. Might work with a hand drill, might not. At the very least I'd clamp down the piece. I'd still try it myself.

How big are the holes? Might need a pilot. As for cutting ti, I think people use chop saws, obviously I just drill the perimeter. To break the webbing I use a reinforced cutting disk on the dremel. Next time I'll get the holes closer.
 
Drill Ti without press... I think so. I haven't tried but I don't see why not. Try slower speeds and if it gets really hot back off and let it cool.

The cobalt bits are great, I use the Norseman ones.


By the way... I got a strip of Ti in the mail today, it will make some nice sheath clips!
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Drill Ti without press... I think so. I haven't tried but I don't see why not. Try slower speeds and if it gets really hot back off and let it cool.

The cobalt bits are great, I use the Norseman ones.


By the way... I got a strip of Ti in the mail today, it will make some nice sheath clips!
Click to expand...

:thumbup:

I'll give this drilling and cutting a shot tomorrow. Yes, it's Grade 5 Ti, which is 6Al-4V I believe.

What about drilling and tapping into the Ti? I want to put some scales on my Farid REX121 K2 to fill out the grip more.
 
Good luck! Keep that tap straight and lubed... the cheap hss or hc taps are likely best for a small project.
 
I have never tapped Ti but as with tapping any metal the trick is go slow, LUBE LUBE LUBE, and make sure to back out and clean the tap often!
It might even be worth it to have a shop do it if you do not have the taps and bits already.
 
Well, I'm not even going to bother with drilling and tapping the Farid K2 myself. I can't even get through the 0.050" Ti. I can cut and shape the piece fine, but drilling through...I guess I'm gonna have to get a drill press and some better bits. Maybe I'll do that tomorrow.
 
Daniel,

Once those blades get here I'm going to want to drill, pin and epoxy/scale them. Should I know anything about adhering the black micarta or wooden scales? I have some 30 minute quick set epoxy. What do you recommend for finishing? Something nice and polished for the wood. Does it get that way from high grit belts, or do I need some sorta finish for that wood?

Thanks dude! Email me with that USPS shipping info too so I can grease ya palms :)
 
Farchyld said:
Daniel,

Once those blades get here I'm going to want to drill, pin and epoxy/scale them. Should I know anything about adhering the black micarta or wooden scales? I have some 30 minute quick set epoxy. What do you recommend for finishing? Something nice and polished for the wood. Does it get that way from high grit belts, or do I need some sorta finish for that wood?

Thanks dude! Email me with that USPS shipping info too so I can grease ya palms :)
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan! i can't wait for you to get them and am really proud of the work you have done!

Holes may be a bit tough but try and see, a tang heating session will probably do the trick on the 52100. Blame me, I thought you were wrapping them! The D2 and 3V might be tricky... I wouldn't worry at all on these as I have tested a solid glue-up without pins (with West System G-Flex) and the non pinned scales took all I could give them with a sledge hammer on the ends! go ahead and try but next time is good ...

Glue up - the 30 minute stuff can be tricky and I have never used it, there should be no problem though. Hand sand the glue up area to 60 grit or so... after that wash with soap and water... clean with windex then alcohol. Glue up the epoxy under light pressure as not to squeeze it out.

Finishing - used ceramic belts for shaping then sandpaper, aluminum oxide or zirconium belts for finishing. I like to go to 400 grit then hand sand as a general rule. For micarta or G10 800 grit will bring out the color... I'd consider a 120-400 finish, maybe hand sanding to 400-800 then oiling the material. Mineral oil is fine for whatever and Danish Oil is nice for most woods.

I'll get you that tracking later! :D
 
This is a great thread Daniel and I appreciate the time you take to help us out.

I found a carbidizer in my Old Man's tool box, didn't know what it was till about 6 months ago, (he was a fleet mechanic for Shell Oil and used it for work to resurface contacts and points).

What else is it good for? Can you use it to add material to a liner lock? What other things can you use it for?
 
Hey Daniel A while back I posted a pic of the first hamon I attempted.I have been unable to get what I call a hamon. I can see the temper line when I etch the blade in vinegar. Then I try fresh lemon juice to try to bring out the ashy white line but noooooo go. The blade is 1084 and I used furnace clay on the spine to get the temper line. I quenched it canola. You got any tips? This is what it looked like after rough sanding the scale off.
10586516643_e194f695c0_b.jpg
[/url] Tupper Knives Rhino 1 by pokeyoureyeout, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Kevin, that's about all you'll get with 1084. To get the whisps of smoke white lines and crazy activity it need to be a shallow hardening steel, 1095, W1, some 1075, etc. 1084 hardens too deep to get that.


-Xander
 
T. Erdelyi said:
This is a great thread Daniel and I appreciate the time you take to help us out.

I found a carbidizer in my Old Man's tool box, didn't know what it was till about 6 months ago, (he was a fleet mechanic for Shell Oil and used it for work to resurface contacts and points).

What else is it good for? Can you use it to add material to a liner lock? What other things can you use it for?
Click to expand...

Nice score!

Yes you can carbidize the lock bar, it will not add very much material but will make a big difference in the action and wear.

The carbide welds in so there is also carbide in the material you are adding it to, it is more than a surface layer from what I understand.

Try it on drill bits, anything that holds an edge will last longer. Steel and carbide works great too, I really need to make more carbidized steel knives.

I hear they work wonders on mower blades. I mostly use mine on blades and lock bars but this does get me thinking, I need to use it for more.


flatblackcapo said:
Hey Daniel A while back I posted a pic of the first hamon I attempted.I have been unable to get what I call a hamon. I can see the temper line when I etch the blade in vinegar. Then I try fresh lemon juice to try to bring out the ashy white line but noooooo go. The blade is 1084 and I used furnace clay on the spine to get the temper line. I quenched it canola. You got any tips? This is what it looked like after rough sanding the scale off.
Click to expand...

I think Xander called it with the 1084 but I have seen a hamon on 1084 before so you may have a chance.

That is decarb you are seeing, try a used ceramic belt to get the decarb off.

After that finish up to 400 or so then do a quick dip in vinegar, ferric chloride or wipe with a lemon wedge to see if you have any activity. I find the lemon juice will sometimes bring out subtle activity like quench lines.

If you see any activity or lines go ahead and start hand sanding, I'd bring it to a higher grit like 800-1200 for more activity.

Try W2 for hamon, 1095 or Aldo's 1075 is also a good one. You need a low manganese content in the steel to get a good hamon as the manganese controls hardening depth along with other factors. ...that's why I say Aldo's 1075 as sometimes 1075 can be deep hardening and won't get a hamon.



Farchyld said:
"Your file is unusable for waterjet work."

Q: Why am I CAD-inept?
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Oh no!!!! your CAD looked great to me, I'm going to look it over again.

I did a ton of reading up on it (CAD in general... I'm considering a true 3D program) yesterday and it may be the conversion factor which might not show up until it is in the waterjet. Apparently one type of vector or spline machines well but does not convert as well to the wj.

Keep at it, your designs are top-notch!
 
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I just noticed i was credited for this thread. Sick.

Daniel can I keep the black forge finish on my 52100 chef knives? Or is it toxic/bad?

*edit*

Whatup with hardened 52100? I am literally bending my drill press trying to make holes with my cobalt bits. Nothing. I cant get through!
 
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