GEC #35 Churchill Thread

I just want to say that this knife is perfect. The pulls on it are perfect, and are what I would call "progressive", meaning they start out at about 5 but then they end up around 6-6.5. Not what I would call "light" or "weak". Great snap. Very, very similar to my 68 White Owl, basically just a bigger version. I couldn't help myself but lower that secondary blade. I think it looks better and feels a lot better in hand.

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Hey folks, total GEC newbie here but received my first one today in the mail. I got a yellow rose 35. In love with the covers, but curious, there isn't a half stop. Is this normal for single spring knives? This is my first foray into traditionals other than a case mini trapper. It certainly won't be my last though! (Apologies I have no clue how to add a picture)
 
calebpo said:
Hey folks, total GEC newbie here but received my first one today in the mail. I got a yellow rose 35. In love with the covers, but curious, there isn't a half stop. Is this normal for single spring knives? This is my first foray into traditionals other than a case mini trapper. It certainly won't be my last though! (Apologies I have no clue how to add a picture)
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Not necessarily a single spring knife thing, although a single spring pen configuration like this often has cam tangs. It's just pattern dependent with GEC. Some get half stops, others don't. I like them both ways.
 
Nice work on the lowering traum. I'm interested in doing the same but very leery of messing up a flush spring....Does look better low-riding though:thumbsup:
 
Will Power said:
Nice work on the lowering traum. I'm interested in doing the same but very leery of messing up a flush spring....Does look better low-riding though:thumbsup:
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Truthfully, I does lower the spring a hair. But we are talking a fraction of a millimeter when closed. Literally the width of a hair.

I'm not sure why the sheepsfoot blades always sit up so high (every sheepsfoot knife). There is plenty of clearance in the blade well, and there is always just so much kick... Is that the only way to get the spring flush at closed?
 
traumkommode said:
Truthfully, I does lower the spring a hair. But we are talking a fraction of a millimeter when closed. Literally the width of a hair.

I'm not sure why the sheepsfoot blades always sit up so high (every sheepsfoot knife). There is plenty of clearance in the blade well, and there is always just so much kick... Is that the only way to get the spring flush at closed?
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How did you lower it? It does look better.
 
JTB_5 said:
How did you lower it? It does look better.
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Any time I do a kick, I use a hand file. Usually I lay the file on the table and then grind the kick on it, since the file I have is so considerably larger than the knife. Other option would be to clamp the knife to a surface and then grind the file against the tang, but I would want a smaller hand file for that. I may have put one kick against my 1x30 sander once when I was doing another blade modification, but it takes as long on the hand file as it would for me to pull out the sander, set it up, and then clean up. That belt is kinda violent, too, for such a small part of the knife.
 
traumkommode said:
Any time I do a kick, I use a hand file. Usually I lay the file on the table and then grind the kick on it, since the file I have is so considerably larger than the knife. Other option would be to clamp the knife to a surface and then grind the file against the tang, but I would want a smaller hand file for that. I may have put one kick against my 1x30 sander once when I was doing another blade modification, but it takes as long on the hand file as it would for me to pull out the sander, set it up, and then clean up. That belt is kinda violent, too, for such a small part of the knife.
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Cool. How much do you think you took off of the kick?
 
Here's a comparison shot I happened to take when I was talking to someone about it earlier.

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Bear in mind, as Will Power Will Power mentioned, it will un-flush your back spring when the secondary is closed, but not by much. So little you can hardly see it, and just enough that you can feel it. But I've had factory released knives from other companies that were way worse in their spring flush-ity.

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So my Banana #35 main blade is feeling grindy and almost seizing up on opening. I think it feels how my #25 felt before it basically self destructed. Any suggestions? I'll oil it, but beyond that I'm not sure I want to do anything so that it is fully under warranty. Should I just send it back before opening it too much and possibly worsening it?
 
Mine started feeling that way yesterday actually. When it reaches the 90° point it gets a grindy feeling and I have to almost force it the rest of the way open.
In my case it seems to be grit (there is no worse sound!) and I'm having trouble flushing it from the pivot. I've flushed with WD-40 and blown out with 180 psi of compressed air and oiled and oiled. Getting better, but grit can be extremely stubborn.

Hopefully yours is just debris and not impending mechanical failure. What happened with your #25?
L.H.S said:
So my Banana #35 main blade is feeling grindy and almost seizing up on opening. I think it feels how my #25 felt before it basically self destructed. Any suggestions? I'll oil it, but beyond that I'm not sure I want to do anything so that it is fully under warranty. Should I just send it back before opening it too much and possibly worsening it?
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Did you wash it out with hot water, soap & a brush first of all? The reason I ask is that an appalling amount of what looked like rag or cloth came out of mine...this may account for later 'seizures' :eek::D:D
 
solphilos said:
Mine started feeling that way yesterday actually. When it reaches the 90° point it gets a grindy feeling and I have to almost force it the rest of the way open.
In my case it seems to be grit (there is no worse sound!) and I'm having trouble flushing it from the pivot. I've flushed with WD-40 and blown out with 180 psi of compressed air and oiled and oiled. Getting better, but grit can be extremely stubborn.

Hopefully yours is just debris and not impending mechanical failure. What happened with your #25?
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I oiled it and it seems to have rectified the issue. I have tentative optimism. If I feel a hint of seizing come back up though I think I'll send it in. I don't want to not be able to carry and use and enjoy this knife with confidence.

My #25 started to pull apart. One side liner started to separate from the spring at the butt then the tang dug deep into the other side liner. GEC won't work on it because it's a "Store knife" aka a second. I'm gonna lose the awesome Unicorn Ivory acrylic scales probably unfortunately. Have to get it rescaled. I have some cool vintage canvas and linen micarta, might have it turned into a shadow pattern.
 
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