Home Built Surface Grinder
- Thread starter One Armed
- Start date
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- Oct 30, 2019
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- 7
Jesse,
How much play was there? I am trying to get an idea, as to how much I may need to modify something.
Thank you
How much play was there? I am trying to get an idea, as to how much I may need to modify something.
Thank you
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2015
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It would probably work but my .02 is you have way too much travel on that. I have the one on the parts list and once I get to surface, I am moving it like a couple thousands per adjustment. My concern with that is it would get you there fast but it might be too much movement or should I say not enough small movements to get small passes. At least that is what I do. I find if I try and dig too deep into the steel and take too much off, it does not behave properly. It might knock the belt off or I have gotten some rounding on the edges as well. It is more than likely from the action of the serrated wheel. Hope this helps.
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- Jul 4, 2010
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Greg, enough flex or play that I thought it difficult to be accurate. I don't like the ball screws but I've been too lazy to change it.
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- Oct 30, 2019
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It does have a bit of travel. I was just looking for one that was a robust build. My thought was with 1" guide rods, it might be more solid. Any idea for a table with a finer movement?
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- Oct 30, 2019
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Over all it does work for you though? Question for you, on your travel, are you using a dial indicator?
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The one I have is very solid with no real complaints. Maybe look at a dial indicator so you can monitor the small adjustments with the guide rod version. With anything I am sure there are both negatives and advantages for either one. Over the course of using mine, the thickest steel I use is .375" and the thinnest is .0625". So doing the math there is very little overall movement in the device anyway (.3125 or 5/16). I bet I have not moved it over .75 inch since I installed it. When I put a new piece of steel in, I run it down til it touches then back it off a 1/8 turn and start there. Turn on the belt and slowly turn the adjustment til I touch steel again. I use very small movements on mine pretty much every time. Only time I made any large movement was at first test when I ran it all the way in and then ran it all the way out. Hope this helps a bit.
Here is the one I used. Its the same as the one on the parts list.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32612615636.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a3e4c4dOaB0DS
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Thank you for the information.
Do you have any issues with that table binding at all during material removal? I think, I am wanting to know if you are getting any twist on the table?
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No not at all. Table is solid as a rock. I can barely get the blade off the magnet table. I have to keep a layer of tape on it or else I can not remove the blade. Its that solid. I have learned after pinching my finger tips from a slamming blade being pulled in by those magnets to do things differently. I almost wished I would have skipped every other magnet. I have earth magnets on mine and they are serious business and not to be underestimated. They will crush your finger from magnetic pull if it gets caught under the blade. Hope I answered your question properly.
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- Oct 7, 2015
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Going back and reading your question I dont I answered it. I checked flatness on a piece of granite and it looks pretty good all the way around. Nothing to really concern me. I am just making hand make stuff though and never seen any real issue on twist or out of flat. I checked with a mic and it was within a few thousandths across the surface of a 9 inch piece of stock. Most removal coming at the ends of the steel. I am not getting any twisting. As said before if I bare too hard on the material it rounds the edges of the steel on the top corner flat where it starts the grind. I think that is just the wheel compressing under the load.
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- Feb 27, 2006
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ladams, thats what i did, removed every other magnet. still enough hold to work fine. i pinched my fingers too, now i use a smaller magnet on the knife blank to hold onto it with.
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I am seriously considering it. I have lost too many tips of my fingers and its worse with gloved it seems. There is nothing hurts worse the next day as when you pinch that skin off the end of your fingers. You find out real quick how much you use your finger tips when you do that. LOL, I pinched my finger on the magnets themselves. Never dealt with earth magnets that big, learned the hard way what they are capable of.
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- Oct 30, 2019
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Are you using the N52 magnets?
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It does work for me but is not ideal I don't think. Something with a finer screw would be better. I don't use a dial indicator. I haven't seen the need for what I do. I use mine to surface all blades after heat treatment and I finish most of them to X16. I do this to folders and fixed blades alike. I'm more concerned with the finish than final thickness.
What size are you magnets? I'm using 50X10X5 mm N52 magnets and boy are they strong. I always slide the blade off magnetic chuck sideways rather than trying to pick blade up. For final finish I'll put scotch tape over chuck so the blade doesn't get scratched when sliding.
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- Oct 30, 2019
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Did you build your chuck using aluminum or steel? And, why?
Thank you.
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Here are the specs for the ones I got. Bought 2 packs of these. Looks like the ones on the link are not available but I imagine a short search would get the exact ones from another dealer. Yes I have to use tape on mine as well or else any bit of stuff will scratch. Just so much strength on those magnets makes it easier to scratch because of the pull. Sliding is about the only I can get a blade off. Cant remove it any other way. Have to use tools to pry it off which causes damage in itself and the grinder base. So sliding is the way.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32398053200.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.43f84c4dsUKqjX
Neodymium Magnets New Top Fashion Imanes Aimant 15 Pcs N50 Super Strong Block Cuboid Magnets 60x10x4 Mm Rare Earth Neodymium
Description:
15 pcs N50 Super Strong Block Cuboid Magnets 60x10x4 mm Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets
Specifications:
Grade: N50
Material: NdFeB
Coating: NiCuNi
Shape: Block
Size: 60 x 10 x 4mm
Ages:7+ ages
Features:
Super strong Rare-Earth magnets - once they get stuck with each other, they are hard to break apart.
Can also be used to extend protected lithium batteries with recessed contact points.
Electrically conductive (making them suitable to extend recessed batteries).
Perfect for sticking notes on fridge doors.
Great for do-it-yourself projects.
Package included:
15 X Magnets
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32398053200.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.43f84c4dsUKqjX
Neodymium Magnets New Top Fashion Imanes Aimant 15 Pcs N50 Super Strong Block Cuboid Magnets 60x10x4 Mm Rare Earth Neodymium
Description:
15 pcs N50 Super Strong Block Cuboid Magnets 60x10x4 mm Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets
Specifications:
Grade: N50
Material: NdFeB
Coating: NiCuNi
Shape: Block
Size: 60 x 10 x 4mm
Ages:7+ ages
Features:
Super strong Rare-Earth magnets - once they get stuck with each other, they are hard to break apart.
Can also be used to extend protected lithium batteries with recessed contact points.
Electrically conductive (making them suitable to extend recessed batteries).
Perfect for sticking notes on fridge doors.
Great for do-it-yourself projects.
Package included:
15 X Magnets
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- Oct 7, 2015
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I used aluminum because its easier to machine. I just have a Taig Micro Mill. I plan on getting a larger mill in the future but I just dont use it very much now. Once my kids get a bit older and I have more shop time, then I get the big mill lol. I have had zero issues with the aluminum plus its a thick chunk so its pretty sturdy.
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- Sep 5, 2002
- Messages
- 606
Lately, I've noticed some movement in the linear table. The stage has developed some side-to-side movement.
After looking at some pictures online, I noticed that mine is missing this piece altogether;
Is that the only way to tighten the two together? I suppose I could make something similar...
After looking at some pictures online, I noticed that mine is missing this piece altogether;
Is that the only way to tighten the two together? I suppose I could make something similar...
You have to disassemble it first. If inside you have no this part in red color you can t just use bolts for tighten side to side movement direct on moving parts ....Lately, I've noticed some movement in the linear table. The stage has developed some side-to-side movement.
After looking at some pictures online, I noticed that mine is missing this piece altogether;
Is that the only way to tighten the two together? I suppose I could make something similar...
