I need help - Survival Knife

He does ship overseas, according to the ad... but it will add to the cost.
The last couple of sales for this model were hardly a race...but I'd expect interest to be high when they come around again. Participate in some of the discussions in his forum, maybe somebody will proxy for you.
 
Bar_D_Lee_nN said:
Thanks for the advice mate, I was actually hesitating with the wood one. Now I can't decide with the green or black, maybe more the green if I go for the aurora.. I heard it was really beautiful, let me know if you had the chance to have both in your hands..! Really hard to find a shop which isn't sold out by the way..
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I haven't handled an Aurora, but anyone who has shopped BRKT is familiar with the model, as it's probably their flagship model of bushcrafter, that or the Northstar.

I've handled three BRKT knives, all EDC models derived from their Professional line of hunting knives (see the Fox River above), and all with 3V blades:

- a Little Creek with desert ironwood scales;
- a Mini Fox River with black canvas micarta and red liners; and,
- a Little Creek with blue G-10.

I gifted the two Little Creeks; the Mini Fox River is my EDC/hiking/lightweight-backpacking knife.

The wood scales are gorgeous, but the micarta or G-10 scales are more textured, practical, and durabledurable. BRKT noted that their wood scales were susceptible to potential swelling or warping due to heat and moisture changes unless they specified the wood was stabilized. The wood-handled knife I gave to a city-dwelling friend who rarely ventures outside metropolitan areas.

I think either black or green micarta look great. You're buying the exact knife pictured from online BRKT dealers, and my three showed up looking as pictured. Because BRKT doesn't take orders for customized knives, and I intended (and still do) to pair my Mini Fox River with a full-size Fox River with my Mini's sheath piggybacked to it and with a firesteel with matching handle, I narrowed my choice of scales to what was then the most common colors -- black, green, and natural canvas.

I see that DLT offers a limited customizeable service. They are about an hour down the road from Escanaba, just across the border in Marinette, Wisconsin, so they must have a close relationship with BRKT. With this option you get to pick your scales and any liner. Unfortunately, they offer this for only a few models, and the Aurora is not one of them. The Mini Aurora in 3V is available for custom trimming, which is the closest to what you want. Consider contacting DLT to see if they could set up a way for you to get a customized Aurora. It's a popular model, so I imagine they make them frequently.

The BRKT website is under construction, but they used to publish their production schedule online. You might consider contacting them to see when the next run of Auroras is due.

I got my three BRKTs from Knives Ship Free. They were in Oregon at the time and are in Tennessee now, but they were in Escanaba for a while until the owner's wife demanded a move south to escape winters in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Due to his time in Escanaba I'm sure KSF has good contacts with BRKT, so if there's a way to get a knife customized or prioritized they might know.
 
Pteronarcyd said:
I haven't handled an Aurora, but anyone who has shopped BRKT is familiar with the model, as it's probably their flagship model of bushcrafter, that or the Northstar.

I've handled three BRKT knives, all EDC models derived from their Professional line of hunting knives (see the Fox River above), and all with 3V blades:

- a Little Creek with desert ironwood scales;
- a Mini Fox River with black canvas micarta and red liners; and,
- a Little Creek with blue G-10.

I gifted the two Little Creeks; the Mini Fox River is my EDC/hiking/lightweight-backpacking knife.

The wood scales are gorgeous, but the micarta or G-10 scales are more textured, practical, and durabledurable. BRKT noted that their wood scales were susceptible to potential swelling or warping due to heat and moisture changes unless they specified the wood was stabilized. The wood-handled knife I gave to a city-dwelling friend who rarely ventures outside metropolitan areas.

I think either black or green micarta look great. You're buying the exact knife pictured from online BRKT dealers, and my three showed up looking as pictured. Because BRKT doesn't take orders for customized knives, and I intended (and still do) to pair my Mini Fox River with a full-size Fox River with my Mini's sheath piggybacked to it and with a firesteel with matching handle, I narrowed my choice of scales to what was then the most common colors -- black, green, and natural canvas.

I see that DLT offers a limited customizeable service. They are about an hour down the road from Escanaba, just across the border in Marinette, Wisconsin, so they must have a close relationship with BRKT. With this option you get to pick your scales and any liner. Unfortunately, they offer this for only a few models, and the Aurora is not one of them. The Mini Aurora in 3V is available for custom trimming, which is the closest to what you want. Consider contacting DLT to see if they could set up a way for you to get a customized Aurora. It's a popular model, so I imagine they make them frequently.

The BRKT website is under construction, but they used to publish their production schedule online. You might consider contacting them to see when the next run of Auroras is due.

I got my three BRKTs from Knives Ship Free. They were in Oregon at the time and are in Tennessee now, but they were in Escanaba for a while until the owner's wife demanded a move south to escape winters in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Due to his time in Escanaba I'm sure KSF has good contacts with BRKT, so if there's a way to get a knife customized or prioritized they might know.
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Thank you very much for all this, Sir. If I decide to go for the Aurora, I will contact Knives Ship Free to see if when they will receive new arrivals. I don't know how to customize it really, I thought that it only comes in black or green micarta (the only customisable part of the knife possible) and I hesitated between those two colours to finally decide to go for the green, I guess. I would have prefer a g10 handle of course but I don't think I could have one even by contacting the site.. But I could try! Would love a black sheath also, not a brown one and DLT does that. I contacted them by the way and they don't know when they will have new auroras. The same at knifeworks..
 
Bar_D_Lee_nN said:
I don't know how to customize it ...
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Here is DLT Trading's pre-order page:

https://www.dlttrading.com/bark-river-knife-pre-orders

They are offering this only for 12 models. You can select your choice of handle material, liner, and pin. Just a guess, but these may be 12 models BRKT has scheduled for production soon, so the models probably change.

I'm guessing it would not be difficult to dye a tan sheath black. DLT even carries some black sheaths; e.g.:

https://www.dlttrading.com/aurora-sheath-black-right
 
Pteronarcyd said:
Here is DLT Trading's pre-order page:

https://www.dlttrading.com/bark-river-knife-pre-orders

They are offering this only for 12 models. You can select your choice of handle material, liner, and pin. Just a guess, but these may be 12 models BRKT has scheduled for production soon, so the models probably change.

I'm guessing it would not be difficult to dye a tan sheath black. DLT even carries some black sheaths; e.g.:

https://www.dlttrading.com/aurora-sheath-black-right
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I will check once in a while to see if they ad the aurora in 3V to preorder, thanks again
 
Not to steer you away from the Aurora, but I bought it along a Canadian Camp loooooooong time ago, and it is probably my least used knife. Good looking, sharp (although I received it with a couple flat spots in the edge) and handy but... the blade is too narrow for my taste. Handle is great, but I belive there are other blade shapes better suited to what I do (wood processing and food prep).

Mikel
 
You are asking the wrong question in my opinion.

There is a lot of knives that some, you would have come across in your research, and others that you would not.
The biggest thing about having 'the one' knife that will do it for you is having it in your hands, having used it and it being better than the other ones you have tested.
There's only so much you can get from reading other people's opinions, your hands are different than theirs, you have your unique movements/habits that will make a knife that has a huge following very uncomfortable for you to use...
It's up to your budget, but if you're lucky enough to have narrowed it down to 2 particular knives, buy them both, use them and decide which one is better for you. Since they are not for display purposes you can always get them second hand and used here on the exchange.

And for being in France. If you do your research, you should be able to find some local knife shows, where you might find what you are after, or a maker who could make the one for you.
 
"Better" depends on your preferences and needs, the size of the blade, and the heat treatment it receives. For me, at this size & the quoted hardness levels (58 on 3V, 60 on Cruwear), I would choose cruwear without a moment's hesitation. That doesn't mean it's the better choice for you (or anybody else).

Figure minimal - if any - reduction in toughness, better edge retention without being difficult to sharpen, and probably better corrosion resistance. (Bark River's 3V, at the lower HRC, stains fairly easily; and I've experienced mild corrosion after minimal use on cleaned/dried blades.
*disclaimer - I've never used BRKT's cruwear... my comments are based on my experience with other knives using the steel, my experience with 3V from BRKT and other makers, and the specifications BRKT provided for the Aurora models.

*edited to add: here's Bark River's statement.
...the excellent performance Crucible's Cru-Wear steel. You will notice a difference in edge holding over the 3V version while keeping the same incredible toughness as 3V. We feel that this upgrade has definite benefits for long term use in the field
 
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I've owned more Bark Rivers than I can recall (including an Aurora) as well as a couple of BOB's in 1095. I would not recommend either based on extensive experience with both (both are good knives - don't get me wrong - but there are better options imho).

The BOB is too thick and it is heavy, and is also equipped with the most useless feature I've seen on a knife in decades - the Shango Notch - and it is way overpriced for what it is.

As far as Bark Rivers go, Mike Stewart has forgotten more about blade geometry, steel selection, metallurgy and knife design than most of us combined will ever know. Having said that, I cannot deal with the slick & tiny handles he puts on his knives. They just don't work for me, and I have come to truly despise 3V steel with every atom of my being.

I have a lot of dirt time and will tell you that the so called "one tool option" is a romantic notion that has no place in a real emergency. You can do a lot more work with a folding saw combined with an axe or machete (depending upon terrain) than you can with the best possible knife of any size (and cost) and do so rather inexpensively both in terms of the financial cost of the tools themselves and calories expended in their actual use. I would rather have a $10 Tramontina machete, a folding saw (Sven, Dustrude or Silky depending upon terrain and budget) and a Mora Companion than any thousand dollar super duper survival knife designed by covert ops super secret Special Forces survival experts & made of unobtanium alloy and heat treated by beautiful girls riding unicorns. All of them combined can be purchased for well under $100 ($50 if you choose an inexpensive saw).

Having said that, I love quality knives. I love how they cut with precision and minimal effort and (after spending enough money on knives over the past 50 years to buy a new Jeep) have narrowed all of knifedom down to two models that I use for everything outdoors (except filleting fish). They are the Fallkniven F1 in CoS and a Mora Garberg Carbon Black. Both will need to be properly sharpened, but once this has been done they will slice like lasers.

For woodcraft, I prefer the Garberg due to it's scandi grind and super beefy & ergonomic handle. For everything else, it's the F1 (although it is no slouch in woodwork either). That convex grind (when properly profiled and sharpened) does everything well. It's only downside is it's cost (around $200 USD). The Garberg is a close second in performance and can be had for about $80 USD. If that's too expensive for a person just starting out, go with a Bushcraft Black (around $50) or even a Companion HD for around $16 USD and spend some time learning with them.

The important point is that skills are more important than toys. Once you get some "hands on" dirt time, things will all naturally fall into place for you. Now go out there and get your hands dirty ;).
 
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Brommeland said:
I've owned more Bark Rivers than I can recall (including an Aurora) as well as a couple of BOB's in 1095. I would not recommend either based on extensive experience with both (both are good knives - don't get me wrong - but there are better options imho).

The BOB is too thick and it is heavy, and is also equipped with the most useless feature I've seen on a knife in decades - the Shango Notch - and it is way overpriced for what it is.

As far as Bark Rivers go, Mike Stewart has forgotten more about blade geometry, steel selection, metallurgy and knife design that most of us combined will ever know. Having said that, I cannot deal with the slick & tiny handles he puts on his knives. They just don't work for me, and I have come to truly despise 3V steel with every atom of my being.

I have a lot of dirt time and will tell you that the so called "one tool option" is a romantic notion that has no place in a real emergency. You can do a lot more work with a folding saw combined with an axe or machete (depending upon terrain) than you can with the best possible knife of any size (and cost) and do so rather inexpensively both in terms of the financial cost of the tools themselves and calories expended in their actual use. I would rather have a $10 Tramontina machete, a folding saw (Sven, Dustrude or Silky depending upon terrain and budget) and a Mora Companion than any thousand dollar super duper survival knife designed by covert ops super secret Special Forces survival experts & made of unobtanium alloy and heat treated by beautiful girls riding unicorns. All of them combined can be purchased for well under $100 ($50 if you choose an inexpensive saw).

Having said that, I love quality knives. I love how they cut with precision and minimal effort and (after spending enough money on knives over the past 50 years to buy a new Jeep) have narrowed all of knifedom down to two models that I use for everything outdoors (except filleting fish). They are the Fallkniven F1 in CoS and a Mora Garberg Carbon Black. Both will need to be properly sharpened, but once this has been done they will slice like lasers.

For woodcraft, I prefer the Garberg due to it's scandi grind and super beefy & ergonomic handle. For everything else, it's the F1 (although it is no slouch in woodwork either). That convex grind (when properly profiled and sharpened) does everything well. It's only downside is it's cost (around $200 USD). The Garberg is a close second in performance and can be had for about $80 USD. If that's too expensive for a person just starting out, go with a Bushcraft Black (around $50) or even a Companion HD for around $16 USD and spend some time learning with them.

The important point is that skills are more important than toys. Once you get some "hands on" dirt time, things will all naturally fall into place for you. Now go out there and get your hands dirty ;).
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Thank you very much for your precious advices and to make me laugh!
The Fallkniven F1 COS seems very very good indeed, I think it seems better than the Garberg.. Where could I buy it? I couldn't find a good retailer (that also shops in France).
I ordered a DBK Knife from Dulo, have you heard of them and of this one? And if so, would you recommend me this company and this knife or sould I just go buy the Fallkniven F1 COS you talked about? :)
 
Bar_D_Lee_nN said:
Thank you very much for your precious advices and to make me laugh!
The Fallkniven F1 COS seems very very good indeed, I think it seems better than the Garberg.. Where could I buy it? I couldn't find a good retailer (that also shops in France).
I ordered a DBK Knife from Dulo, have you heard of them and of this one? And if so, would you recommend me this company and this knife or sould I just go buy the Fallkniven F1 COS you talked about? :)
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You're more than welcome. In answer to your questions, I have no experience with Dulo so I have nothing to share in that regard. Some sites sell Fallkniven products and have a French speaking (reading) website and customer service number.

I will warn you that I've owned about 11 or 12 Fallkniven knives and some of them did require a bit of work to get them to cut properly. (Convex grinds are all ground by hand and therefore will have some defects from time to time. While I consider this to be inexcusable in a product at this price point, it is a fact of life. Accept that you might have to work on the edge a bit to optimize it's performance). However, once that work is done, they all cut like lasers and the CoS steel is super tough, has superb edge retention and resharpens very easily.
 
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Brommeland said:
You're more than welcome. In answer to your questions, I have no experience with Dulo so I have nothing to share in that regard. Some sites sell Fallkniven products and have a French speaking (reading) website and customer service number.

I will warn you that I've owned about 11 or 12 Fallkniven knives and some of them did require a bit of work to get them to cut properly. (Convex grinds are all ground by hand and therefore will have some defects from time to time. While I consider this to be inexcusable in a product at this price point, it is a fact of life. Accept that you might have to work on the edge a bit to optimize it's performance). However, once that work is done, they all cut like lasers and the CoS steel is super tough, has superb edge retention and resharpens very easily.
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I take good note of everything.

So other questions lol first of, I am not good at sharpening so how can I see that it has defects and what do I use to sharpen this knife?
Which sheath is the best between leather and zytel?
I don't get the difference between the F1 COS and F1 PRO which is also in COS.. Which one's the best? And there's also the F1PRO Premium with the whole package too..
And finally which firesteel do you use?

You shouldn't have talked to me in the first place, Sir, now you're stuck with my questions :D
 
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Hi again,

The F1 Pro has a stainless guard, a slimmer handle and a thicker blade. I own 5 regular F1's. I sold my F1 Pro 24 hours after I got it. I much prefer the original F1.

I sharpen on a leather block strop (a Brommeland 3 X 8 to be precise) with 400 grit sandpaper laid on top. It's pretty easy once you learn the technique - lay the knife flat on the sandpaper and then lift the spine until the edge just touches the sandpaper. Then draw the blade away from the edge. Do this until you're so bored that you want to shove the knife into your own heart (or have achieved a true zero grind convex), and then do the other side. (Be sure to either clean the sandpaper often with crepe rubber or replace it when it becomes loaded with metal or you'll reach the stab yourself state long before you're finished with the knife).

Then move to 600 grit and repeat. keep going finer until you have a finish that you like (I personally don't go any finer than 600 grit, but some folks are more concerned with the appearance of the finished blade than I am.)

Then give it a dozen strokes or so on each side with white ceramic V rods set at 17 degrees. (This creates a tiny micro bevel that makes it very easy to resharpen in the field and strengthens the edge dramatically). I finish by stropping with black compound on one of my leather strap strops (50 passes on each side of the blade on an 18" strop). It should slide thru phone book or cigarette paper with no hesitation if it has been done correctly.

Even though I make leather products for a living, I prefer the Zytel sheaths. As I see it, there is no point in having a stainless steel knife with a rubber handle (making it impervious to water) and then putting it into a leather sheath that can be easily damaged by moisture. The Zytel sheath makes for a truly waterproof package.

Firesteel? I use either a Swedish military firesteel or a Gobspark. Both are excellent. Please let me know if I can be of further help. Good luck!
 
Brommeland said:
Hi again,

The F1 Pro has a stainless guard, a slimmer handle and a thicker blade. I own 5 regular F1's. I sold my F1 Pro 24 hours after I got it. I much prefer the original F1.

I sharpen on a leather block strop (a Brommeland 3 X 8 to be precise) with 400 grit sandpaper laid on top. It's pretty easy once you learn the technique - lay the knife flat on the sandpaper and then lift the spine until the edge just touches the sandpaper. Then draw the blade away from the edge. Do this until you're so bored that you want to shove the knife into your own heart (or have achieved a true zero grind convex), and then do the other side. (Be sure to either clean the sandpaper often with crepe rubber or replace it when it becomes loaded with metal or you'll reach the stab yourself state long before you're finished with the knife).

Then move to 600 grit and repeat. keep going finer until you have a finish that you like (I personally don't go any finer than 600 grit, but some folks are more concerned with the appearance of the finished blade than I am.)

Then give it a dozen strokes or so on each side with white ceramic V rods set at 17 degrees. (This creates a tiny micro bevel that makes it very easy to resharpen in the field and strengthens the edge dramatically). I finish by stropping with black compound on one of my leather strap strops (50 passes on each side of the blade on an 18" strop). It should slide thru phone book or cigarette paper with no hesitation if it has been done correctly.

Even though I make leather products for a living, I prefer the Zytel sheaths. As I see it, there is no point in having a stainless steel knife with a rubber handle (making it impervious to water) and then putting it into a leather sheath that can be easily damaged by moisture. The Zytel sheath makes for a truly waterproof package.

Firesteel? I use either a Swedish military firesteel or a Gobspark. Both are excellent. Please let me know if I can be of further help. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thank you very very much, Sir. Now I want one.. Seems a perfect edc blade as well.. At the beginning I was more thinking about the S1, perfect zize between F and A, but you seemed to have tried all of them and decided which one's the best. For the sharpening part, I think I won't be able to do all the stuffs you explained to me, unfortunately..
Do you think I could buy it directly from Fallkniven and ask them to check if it has no defects, and if so fix it..?
Seems like a stupid question but I am just enable to do all the things you said, even if it was perfectly clear to read.
By the way, just to be sure, I choose ''Lam. CoS'', right?

Finally I've found those two retailers, can you confirm me please that it is in fact the Fallkniven F1 in COS, the one you have and not another model?
https://www.knifeworks.com/new/fall...atin-blade-thermorun-handle-zytel-shaeth.html
https://www.dlttrading.com/fallkniven-f1-laminated-cobalt-zytel-sheath


You have been very patient, thank you again!
 
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I would go a little larger than the F1 and carry a folder with you as well. It really depends IF you are willing to carry a larger knife in the outdoors. I find that I avoid carrying anything over a 7" blade. The knife becomes too large for my comfort range. Of course the larger blade is better for chopping if that is something you might do. So it boils down to what you mean by "survival knife" and the situations you believe you might use it.
 
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Bar_D_Lee_nN said:
Thank you very very much, Sir. Now I want one.. Seems a perfect edc blade as well.. At the beginning I was more thinking about the S1, perfect zize between F and A, but you seemed to have tried all of them and decided which one's the best. For the sharpening part, I think I won't be able to do all the stuffs you explained to me, unfortunately..
Do you think I could buy it directly from Fallkniven and ask them to check if it has no defects, and if so fix it..?
Seems like a stupid question but I am just enable to do all the things you said, even if it was perfectly clear to read.
By the way, just to be sure, I choose ''Lam. CoS'', right?

Finally I've found those two retailers, can you confirm me please that it is in fact the Fallkniven F1 in COS, the one you have and not another model?
https://www.knifeworks.com/new/fall...atin-blade-thermorun-handle-zytel-shaeth.html
https://www.dlttrading.com/fallkniven-f1-laminated-cobalt-zytel-sheath


You have been very patient, thank you again!
Click to expand...

You're welcome - I'm glad to help.

In answer to your questions, Fallkniven will probably not hand inspect a knife for you. You're more likely to get that level of service from Knifeworks, DLT or KSF.

If you are not willing to learn how to sharpen a convex knife you are probably better off with a Scandi or FFG. Both are easier for a newbie to work on. However, the convex grinds are very easy to maintain once you learn how to do so.

The S1 is a great knife if you want a slightly larger blade, but to my knowledge you'll need to get a "Pro" model to get CoS steel. I like a small knife for knife work because I always carry a machete and folding saw. You may prefer to do something else.

I have both VG10 and CoS F1's and they are all excellent. However, the CoS is clearly superior in every way. The "Lam" part simply means laminated - and all of Fallkniven's blades are laminated steel.

The links that you posted are to the F1 that I've described. Please let me know if I can help you further. Have a great day.
 
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Brommeland said:
You're welcome - I'm glad to help.

In answer to your questions, Fallkniven will probably not hand inspect a knife for you. You're more likely to get that level of service from Knifeworks, DLT or KSF.

If you are not willing to learn how to sharpen a convex knife you are probably better off with a Scandi or FFG. Both are easier for a newbie to work on. However, the convex grinds are very easy to maintain once you learn how to do so.

The S1 is a great knife if you want a slightly larger blade, but to my knowledge you'll need to get a "Pro" model to get CoS steel. I like a small knife for knife work because I always carry a machete and folding saw. You may prefer to do something else.

I have both VG10 and CoS F1's and they are all excellent. However, the CoS is clearly superior in every way. The "Lam" part simply means laminated - which all of Fallkniven's steels are laminated blades.

The links that you posted are to the F1 that I've described. Please let me know if I can help you further. Have a great day.
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You really did convince me.. I will buy this week a Fallkniven F1 Cos, it will become my every day cary knife and will complete with its tactical use the more survival Dulo DBK that will arrive in 4 months. So, waiting for the beast to show itself, I will take the F1. If I need more advices in the future with Fallkniven, I will directly come to you and it will be a pleasure to talk to you again. I repeat myself but it is nice to say it when one does really mean it, thank you, Sir, and have a great week. Bless you!
 
Bar_D_Lee_nN said:
You really did convince me.. I will buy this week a Fallkniven F1 Cos, it will become my every day cary knife and will complete with its tactical use the more survival Dulo DBK that will arrive in 4 months. So, waiting for the beast to show itself, I will take the F1. If I need more advices in the future with Fallkniven, I will directly come to you and it will be a pleasure to talk to you again. I repeat myself but it is nice to say it when one does really mean it, thank you, Sir, and have a great week. Bless you!
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You're more than welcome. 'Glad to help.
 
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