I'm excited! Parkerizing soon. Picture results added!

MKarish said:
Pre dip is more effective with zinc phosphate than it is with manganese phosphate supposedly.
Also sort of off topic but glass blasting media is supposed to be fine with park, but if you're interested in hot blueing glass is preferable. The salts will be contaminated by the aluminum.
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That makes sense, when I was doing thermal arc spray coatings with zinc the blast media required was glass due to being inert.
 
Lauer offered to send me a free gallon to replace mine today, which I declined as this is likely my fault and I've already reordered solution from Midway. Just thought I would point that out as it's a pretty stand up thing for them to do.
 
kuraki said:
Lauer offered to send me a free gallon to replace mine today, which I declined as this is likely my fault and I've already reordered solution from Midway. Just thought I would point that out as it's a pretty stand up thing for them to do.
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Def thanks for that. Think I'll be ordering from them soon as there seem the have the best price. May I inquire why you switched to midway?
 
Just realized I said "glass" media is ok for park, should have said aluminum oxide is ok for park, but glass is preferable for black oxide (bluing) because of the possibility of contamination.

Also Kuraki is that blade flash rusting or is it just turning colors? If it didn't get oiled with water displacing oil it may be a layer of rust growing out of the park. The type of oil's important, it's whats actually giving rust protection.

Another good source for parkerizing solution is Allegheny Arsenal. I used both theirs and Lauers, in a "micro-industrial" setting, and felt the Allegheny lasted a little longer. It's been a few years since I had the Lauers in shop but it may have started out a little darker, but lost strength faster. We stuck with the Allegheny for production work. (You can also homebrew it with phosphoric acid and manganese if you just want to play around.)
 
pleasanthill said:
Def thanks for that. Think I'll be ordering from them soon as there seem the have the best price. May I inquire why you switched to midway?
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It's usually faster to get it from Midway than directly from Lauer and I generally need something else from them like reloading components. So no switch, it's Lauers product, just from a distributor.
 
MKarish said:
Just realized I said "glass" media is ok for park, should have said aluminum oxide is ok for park, but glass is preferable for black oxide (bluing) because of the possibility of contamination.

Also Kuraki is that blade flash rusting or is it just turning colors? If it didn't get oiled with water displacing oil it may be a layer of rust growing out of the park. The type of oil's important, it's whats actually giving rust protection.

Another good source for parkerizing solution is Allegheny Arsenal. I used both theirs and Lauers, in a "micro-industrial" setting, and felt the Allegheny lasted a little longer. It's been a few years since I had the Lauers in shop but it may have started out a little darker, but lost strength faster. We stuck with the Allegheny for production work. (You can also homebrew it with phosphoric acid and manganese if you just want to play around.)
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No not flash rust for sure, it's that color right out of the tank. I rinse and oil immediately, even heat when I oil to assure penetration, with a heat gun. The knife is also getting darker as the days go by, it's still not black but somewhere between plum and black tonight.
 
To experiment, I'm going to contaminate this batch with a little more copper dust and see if I can get that color on purpose, and get it to last. It would be a neat option I think.
 
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