- Joined
- Dec 23, 2006
- Messages
- 14,827
Jason and I love to do projects. 
Over the last few years IMHO we have had some great ones. The Founders Bowie was a huge success and in a high performance Bowie at the top of its class. The wicked Fighting Khukuri's are some of the baddest Khuks to be hammered out anywhere and at anytime. The Kwaikens as a utility slash defense piece really exceeded all expectations. So for this year we kinda scratched our heads.
We wanted to do something that would not break the bank , something that Jason could hammer out at a fair price, and here is the important part something that would deserve being graced with a Master Smith Stamp.
For years Jason and I have talked about what makes a good knife. It always fell back on what is the knifes primary use going to be ?
So for this years project since we kinda covered the bad ass Zombie killing stuff with the last three projects we decided on a knife that would fill many different roles.
Of course we will be talking about a fixed blade
1) EDC
For an everyday EDC you want a knife that carries well first and foremost. If it does not carry well than simple put you do not carry it.
It has to be a good size. If it is to big it does not carry well. This is where a proper sheath comes in. For me simple put that is leather. I'm not a kydex fan.....and if you are that's great you can always get one of the many kydex benders to go to town for ya. As mentioned I like leather and in this size knife and for an EDC that carries well I really like a cross draw sheath. The reason you are seeing more and more cross draws in this size application is because they work.
You want a knife that feels good in the hand and lends itself to many tasks. Something that takes an edge and holds it well. A problem with many of the stainlesses is they are just a pain in the neck to sharpen, at least for me. So a good carbon blade that has a patina has always worked for me for a knife that you might be cutting an apple with one minute and then opening a box or letter the next. If the finish is too fine it mars easily and again you won't use it for its intended task.
2) Field Use
I like my EDC to double as a Field Knife. For a field knife there is a reason all the wilderness guys like those little Moras. It's a handy size knife that does the small and light jobs which usually out number the big jobs exceedingly well. In the bush I carry a big knife which is either a Bowie or Khukuri or a Hawk or Axe. But I always carry a field knife which does everything else from food prep to carving a spoon till you name it. Of course game preparation comes into play but we will get to that.
In the bush using a big knife for a small knife job of can get you into trouble. On an extended trip into the back country with no Er's near by a handy utility knife that works with you not against you is a must.
3) Hunting knife
This is where the properly designed knife excels for me. I am so sick of seeing all the drop points. Most hunting knives have no tip. They are rounded at the tip and look like sharpened butter knives. The thought is that too pointy a knife will poke thru into the guts or poke holes in the cape etc. hence the advent of the gut hook. Well I'm not trying to offend anyone but if ya can't control your tip ya need more practice and I for one need and want a tip on my skinning knives. If you ever do more than just gut a critter and actually use the knife to cape out said critter I have found a knife with a good tip critical to turning lips and eyes etc.
Again here I want a carbon knife with some sort of oxidized finish so as long as I do some maintenance I have a knife that I can skin an entire animal with or two without having to touch the blade up. Any Carbon Steel knife will rust if not looked after but I have hunted from Africa to Asia with Carbon knives and never came home with a rusty knife.
Last but not least you want a handle that is secure when covered in fluids and does not stain , dry out or crack.
IMHO a hunting knife does not have to be the same old drop point of our grandfathers. There are many other designs that work. In fact I prefer a little bird and trout knife to a drop point for general skinning, caping etc.
4) Defense
I know people don't like to think of knives a s defensive tools but thru out history they have been used as such and in a pinch can be quite effective.
So what makes a good self defense piece. Well that's simple, the knife that lends itself to being on your person which is your EDC. It's the old theory ya run what ya brung kinda thing
It first and foremost has to be fast to draw and quick to get into action. What would be quicker to use in an emergency when your depending on muscle memory etc to get your knife into play than the knife that is always with you and you are used to using like your EDC. A fixed blade is usually the best option in this situation and the cross draw sheath worn with a cover garment is a very discreet carry style and lightening quick to get into play once you have committed it to muscle memory.
The blade needs to penetrate well like a little clip point does. It needs to be long enough to stab deep enough to get to its target thru clothing etc. It needs to have good edge geometry to slash well. The handle needs to be secure in the hand index well and give you a confident grip.
As you can see a lot of these categories overlap and a good EDC-Field-Hunting-Defense knife can be the same knife.
So Jason and I really batted a lot of concepts back and forth and if you add in affordability with all the other things mentioned you can see where we where going. We wanted a handy little clip point with a carbon steel blade with a synthetic handle that could do it all and come in at a price that everyone could afford. Almost production knife prices with a Master Smith stamp. You say impossible I say meet the
JURASSIC BIRD & TROUT
The specs are :
OAL: 7 inches
Steel: 1095
Blade length: 3 inches
Blade Finish: Brut De Forged oxidized finish
Handle: Knapped (textured) G 10
Handle Color: Black-Blue-Orange
Sheath: Leather Cross Draw
I really can only take credit for working with him on the concept. He came up with the cool name The Brut De Forged little clip point with the knapped G 10 handle really live up to the name Jurassic Bird & Trout and I love the end result. I think the lucky ones that purchase these will find a companion blade to rock the ages.
Thx for looking
Over the last few years IMHO we have had some great ones. The Founders Bowie was a huge success and in a high performance Bowie at the top of its class. The wicked Fighting Khukuri's are some of the baddest Khuks to be hammered out anywhere and at anytime. The Kwaikens as a utility slash defense piece really exceeded all expectations. So for this year we kinda scratched our heads.
We wanted to do something that would not break the bank , something that Jason could hammer out at a fair price, and here is the important part something that would deserve being graced with a Master Smith Stamp.
For years Jason and I have talked about what makes a good knife. It always fell back on what is the knifes primary use going to be ?
So for this years project since we kinda covered the bad ass Zombie killing stuff with the last three projects we decided on a knife that would fill many different roles.
Of course we will be talking about a fixed blade
1) EDC
For an everyday EDC you want a knife that carries well first and foremost. If it does not carry well than simple put you do not carry it.
It has to be a good size. If it is to big it does not carry well. This is where a proper sheath comes in. For me simple put that is leather. I'm not a kydex fan.....and if you are that's great you can always get one of the many kydex benders to go to town for ya. As mentioned I like leather and in this size knife and for an EDC that carries well I really like a cross draw sheath. The reason you are seeing more and more cross draws in this size application is because they work.
You want a knife that feels good in the hand and lends itself to many tasks. Something that takes an edge and holds it well. A problem with many of the stainlesses is they are just a pain in the neck to sharpen, at least for me. So a good carbon blade that has a patina has always worked for me for a knife that you might be cutting an apple with one minute and then opening a box or letter the next. If the finish is too fine it mars easily and again you won't use it for its intended task.
2) Field Use
I like my EDC to double as a Field Knife. For a field knife there is a reason all the wilderness guys like those little Moras. It's a handy size knife that does the small and light jobs which usually out number the big jobs exceedingly well. In the bush I carry a big knife which is either a Bowie or Khukuri or a Hawk or Axe. But I always carry a field knife which does everything else from food prep to carving a spoon till you name it. Of course game preparation comes into play but we will get to that.
In the bush using a big knife for a small knife job of can get you into trouble. On an extended trip into the back country with no Er's near by a handy utility knife that works with you not against you is a must.
3) Hunting knife
This is where the properly designed knife excels for me. I am so sick of seeing all the drop points. Most hunting knives have no tip. They are rounded at the tip and look like sharpened butter knives. The thought is that too pointy a knife will poke thru into the guts or poke holes in the cape etc. hence the advent of the gut hook. Well I'm not trying to offend anyone but if ya can't control your tip ya need more practice and I for one need and want a tip on my skinning knives. If you ever do more than just gut a critter and actually use the knife to cape out said critter I have found a knife with a good tip critical to turning lips and eyes etc.
Again here I want a carbon knife with some sort of oxidized finish so as long as I do some maintenance I have a knife that I can skin an entire animal with or two without having to touch the blade up. Any Carbon Steel knife will rust if not looked after but I have hunted from Africa to Asia with Carbon knives and never came home with a rusty knife.
Last but not least you want a handle that is secure when covered in fluids and does not stain , dry out or crack.
IMHO a hunting knife does not have to be the same old drop point of our grandfathers. There are many other designs that work. In fact I prefer a little bird and trout knife to a drop point for general skinning, caping etc.
4) Defense
I know people don't like to think of knives a s defensive tools but thru out history they have been used as such and in a pinch can be quite effective.
So what makes a good self defense piece. Well that's simple, the knife that lends itself to being on your person which is your EDC. It's the old theory ya run what ya brung kinda thing
It first and foremost has to be fast to draw and quick to get into action. What would be quicker to use in an emergency when your depending on muscle memory etc to get your knife into play than the knife that is always with you and you are used to using like your EDC. A fixed blade is usually the best option in this situation and the cross draw sheath worn with a cover garment is a very discreet carry style and lightening quick to get into play once you have committed it to muscle memory.
The blade needs to penetrate well like a little clip point does. It needs to be long enough to stab deep enough to get to its target thru clothing etc. It needs to have good edge geometry to slash well. The handle needs to be secure in the hand index well and give you a confident grip.
As you can see a lot of these categories overlap and a good EDC-Field-Hunting-Defense knife can be the same knife.
So Jason and I really batted a lot of concepts back and forth and if you add in affordability with all the other things mentioned you can see where we where going. We wanted a handy little clip point with a carbon steel blade with a synthetic handle that could do it all and come in at a price that everyone could afford. Almost production knife prices with a Master Smith stamp. You say impossible I say meet the
JURASSIC BIRD & TROUT
The specs are :
OAL: 7 inches
Steel: 1095
Blade length: 3 inches
Blade Finish: Brut De Forged oxidized finish
Handle: Knapped (textured) G 10
Handle Color: Black-Blue-Orange
Sheath: Leather Cross Draw
I really can only take credit for working with him on the concept. He came up with the cool name
The Brut De Forged little clip point with the knapped G 10 handle really live up to the name Jurassic Bird & Trout and I love the end result. I think the lucky ones that purchase these will find a companion blade to rock the ages. Thx for looking
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