Larry Davidson Balisong

The edge line looks just like my Modified 42!:D Only this one has a more dramatic belly. The spine reminds me of the Sifu, but only as much as a Honda Accord looks like a Toyota Camry (to my wife they look the same but to someone who is familiar with cars, totally different:p )

Sign me up (after I rescue my bank acount from almost certain peril!):D
 
A note to everyone asking to be put on the list for one of these.
Please email me privately with your name, address and a phone number.
I trust my mail account better than my memory to keep track of these things.

I got the S30V so the blade steel is a done deal. ld
 
Originally posted by dson
A note to everyone asking to be put on the list for one of these.
Please email me privately with your name, address and a phone number.
I trust my mail account better than my memory to keep track of these things.

I got the S30V so the blade steel is a done deal. ld

Thanks Mr. Davidson:D I'll be sure to do so as soon as the aforementioned dilemma is rectified. My bank account sure has been getting a workout lately, I sure hope this means it will bulk up soon:rolleyes: hehe

I do hope that nobody thinks that they have placed an order just by saying "Sign Me Up":( what a sad reality they will be faced with :D Good luck, and thanks for keeping us posted.;) I am excited to watch this "unfold":p (pun intended for cuteness)

;) Say hi to Bali the winking kitty:D
 
Just for anyone sitting on the fence. These will be badass as LD can hit every number needed to make a sweet knife. Get in soon or go to the end of a long line... Maybe this will provoke all the other makers of balis to post their newest projects in this thread as well, ya never know.

S30V Balis...whoda thunk it?
 
Well fellas, the S30V is here. I am machining up a couple of proto types this weekend out of G10 just to check the scale and relationship between parts. I'll get a pic or two up with them in hand for viewing. Balilover will get one to give the once over and I'll play with the other one. If everything looks cool, I'll move to some steel proto types quickly. And the rest of course is like they say "duck soup". I will be interupted on and off getting ready for Las Vegas. (I hope some of you guys make it to the Classic. It's quite a show as well as the company. If you make it look me up.) I don't have a table, they're sold out, but I'll be at Chew's table quite a bit. Oh and MikeM is working on the 3d solid model of this piece so there will be some pics soon. If anyone else has anything to bring to the party, bring it on! LarryD
 
This knife design looks absolutely awesome
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...can't wait to see the protos Larry, licking my chops in anticipation.
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Originally posted by dino
Is the blade profile going to be a recure like the drawing by BaliLover Recure Drawing or will it be similare to the cad model by MikeM Cad Drawing? Personally I prefer the recurve.
The blade will look like the recurve. The image I posted, was just to give an example of a 3D balisong model I've been working on. The 3D model will be based on the 2D drawing that BaliLover posted for Larry.
Sorry for any confusion.
Mike
 
Great! I can't wait to see the 3D image. It really puts things in perspective.
 
Blade thickness/handle thickness ratio? Guys, what's "typical" blade thicknesses on some of your balis? What's too thick? Too thin? Say for a 4-1/4" blade around the size of this project.

Speed and balance? Handles and blade balanced, weight wise? Heavy blade, light handles or heavy handles, light blade?

I've handled exactly 3 Balis. There was a great deal of difference and each one had a different balance and feel. One very heavy Philipine model, thick bowie type blade, brass handles. One Stainless handled Balisong model, and one Benchmade, titanium handles. I was more impressed with the Titanium one, but I'm no flipper for real.
It was the thinnest and lightest and seemed to me to be the most balanced although you could really get some speed on the big philly model, you could also cut yourself deeper with it.

I cut model parts from G10 to check out the size and relationship of the parts. I'll try and get a pivot and a couple of tang pins in it tomorrow and take a pic of someone holding it in hand so you can get and idea of it's size and balance. The G10 model won't do for evaluation, but I do see a couple of things I want to change.
One, extend the punyo (?) another 1/4" to 3/8". This will allow me to move the open tang pin further back and I think the lock up on the handles will be stronger. I've got both pins symetrical to the pivot pins, but looking at it it seems better to move the pin back and it also will give the sharpened (lightly) punyo more depth of penetration
in use.
Two, I want to raise the thumb serations. You'll see why when I get the model screwed together. I'll try and get that done tomorrow, but I've got a couple of autos that have to ship out tomorrow.
That's is for now. LarryD
 
The thickness varies widely, although in subtle amounts. In the current Benchmade production models the blades are 1/8". The Benchmade customs from the 90's frequently had 3/16" blades. The customs were stainless handles, while the current production models are Titanium. The balance of handle and blade comes into play here--light with light, heavy with heavy. If you are using sandwich construction (as in liner lock) with stainless liners and bolsters, then I would say 3/16" would be best. If you are using Titanium liners and bolsters, then 5/32's might be about right, although a Ti stack even with Micarta inserts can be fairly heavy, as you know. There seems to be a preference around here for thicker blades, so 1/8" might be too thin.
 
I have asked this a couple of times, and damn near got into a duel over it...

It comes down to personal preference... Whatever that is...

I would prefer 3/16 inch blade, just because I'd like to see something stout. I suppose that each handle should be 3/4 the weight of the blade, apiece.

So if you had a blade at 4oz., then each handle should be 3oz. for a total of 10oz. This may be a lot heavier than many people want, though, since the heaviest bali currently in production is the Monarch, with a weight of 9oz., I think. Aside from the FHM bali-swords, which are damn near impossible to flip... but I think that's due to length, not weight.

Tonyccw has taken more apart than I have, and could probably tell you a better ratio of the pieces...Just ask nice, and he won't get all mad at you...:cool:

Here's the link..


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=174802
 
Thanks, I think, Blade_420. I am absorbing the info in the thread. I don't want to re-open that discussion here so I'll sort thru it. I mean I've got to make this Bali, but I would like to do it as well informed and with some sense and reason for making it like I am.
And really to be fair, Balilover initiated this Bali project and his preferences will be honored. My intension was not to open a can of worms and I hope it is taken that way. The more I get into the project the more Bali conscience I become. ld
 
I'm no expert, but from a practical standpoint I prefer a 1/8" blade. An 1/8" blade should be plenty strong if not used to pry with and would cut very efficiently. A 1/4" blade is too thick and tends to bind when cutting through stiff material.

As far as balance, BM has an excelent product with the 4x series. My guess would be BM has put some thought into weight and balance making the 4x series a good model to go by. Using the 4x model would also ease the transition for BM 4x owners to the Larry Davidson Balisong.
 
Larry: Don't let Andy's misadventure sway you from the path. The answer is still "personal preference." But on a technical side, the handles needs to weigh more than the blade, if for no other reason than to help exert pressure on the tang pin to move it in and out of position. A lighter-than-the-blade handle will have a harder time doing that, and it'll show in the manipulation. Aside from that, the only suggestion I can offer is to extend most of the weight of the handle towards the rear, away from the tang. This will again aid in the way the handle "flies" (although I'm sure you've already found out.) As for smoothness, that'll come naturally with a sandwich construction bali if you keep the gap between the handles and the blade to a bare minimum. That gap is the biggest culprit to the sloppy flipping feeling (as might be the case with that brass Phillipine one.)

Andy: BM 40T's at sunrise next time we meet. :D
 
That's a perfect excuse for me to get one of those trainers.!!!!

Now I just need to convince my wife...:rolleyes:
 
blade: Just ask her if she's tired of wiping up blood after you cut yourself. If she says yes, you go: "Well, I just have the GREATEST sollution for ya, honey!" And then you go on telling about the trainer. "It's not even that expensive!" :D
 
With a sandwich construction would it be possible to have spacers/inserts of various weights at the end of the handle? Another possibility would be spacers/inserts that could slide around 1/2" allowing the user to adjust the center of gravity.
 
I'm off this mornining to pick up the Hornet blades from Bailey. They have all been wire cut (edm). For those that have not seen wire edm'd parts you're in for a treat. Far superiour to laser cut parts. (Pricer, but with thumb serations and fine detail it's worth it. You don't have the slag and rough hardened edges that you get with laser cut parts, even with nitrogen gas shielding it's still sloppy.

I'll be starting the proto types this weekend and I'll have some pics and posts as it proceeds. Heads Up! I'll have the pricing and guestamates for delivery time too. LarryD
 
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