"Leading Edge" 3D printed knife guided sharpening system. Assembly/Build/Use

Great write up, thank you. I am unclear why you would melt in brass inserts instead of cold fit interference screw n glue? Can't wait to show kids after school.
This is one of the best, strongest, smallest and permanent ways of installing brass threads into plastic 3D prints. The shape of the insert allows the melted plastic to form into the grooves and this sets it into position permanently. If done correctly, it takes something like 70 pounds+ of force to pull it out of the plastic.
 
Let me know if anyone needs help with print settings, assembly or use. Enjoy!

Talking about settings these are the ones I used.
I would say the main settings would be infill, walls or shells, and top/bottom layers
(remember folks, I am a beginner at 3D printing :) )

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I also just downloaded all the updates for the updated clamps etc, looking forward to putting it together :thumbsup:
( everything is available for free download and use at Thingiverse, as well as thousands of other cool projects)
 
S
Talking about settings these are the ones I used.
I would say the main settings would be infill, walls or shells, and top/bottom layers
(remember folks, I am a beginner at 3D printing :) )

PBnuVTi.png


I also just downloaded all the updates for the updated clamps etc, looking forward to putting it together :thumbsup:
( everything is available for free download and use at Thingiverse, as well as thousands of other cool projects)
Spot-on with the walls top+bottom layer CelloDan, seems like you're a natural at the 3D printing thing! Having walls and top+bottom layers slightly thicker makes the part more rigid and allows you to use less infill inside the parts.

For clamps and parts that should not flex about 60% infill is good, and for other parts as low as 30% is alright.
 
Recognizing this is a first time DIY for those motivated, like the first kit computers (MITS Altair), what was projects costs: Library and TreatStock printing, metal parts, and hours approximation.
 
Recognizing this is a first time DIY for those motivated, like the first kit computers (MITS Altair), what was projects costs: Library and TreatStock printing, metal parts, and hours approximation.

Hi scottc3 scottc3 :)

I only have a very rough estimate of my costs as this project branched out of another 3D print project I was working on.

I would say it came out to around the cost of the Chestnut Bone Case Sodbuster Jr. you see in the picture :cool: ( around $50 US, and no more than 60 )
( if you check all the features on this system and compare how much it will cost you to buy one with the same features and accessories it will shock you )

However you have to consider that I live in a small Canadian town.
If the border with the US was open I could have driven 10 min across the river to my PO box in the USA and pick the hardware items from the big river site there instead of paying more to ship internationally ( their Canadian site selection is not that great :thumbsdown: )

Also I payed 20 dollars to ship the printed parts from the Treatstock manufacturer ( the parts themselves were less than $20 for each of my two projects )
Had I lived in a big city like Montreal or Toronto I could have picked them up in person.

A few of the parts are optional as well, I went for most everything because I enjoy putting things together but is not necessary if you just want the basics.

I you go and click on the links posted on the You Tube video you will have a rough idea of the costs for the hardware ( brass inserts, steel rods and magnets, thumb screws )
O course, you get like 100 brass inserts, 25 to 50 magnets, lots of thumbs screws etc, so that cost needs to be divided by my two projects, and by 3 when I build the next one which is in the works ;)

The public library here is very affordable ( I did print a few small parts there)

They charge 2 dollars an hour for printing. The stone holder you see in the pictures or other small parts like that may then cost 2 to 3 dollars each.
The only issue with the public library here is that you have a 4 hour limit for jobs. The big base would take much longer than that so I could not print it at the library but all the small parts can certainly be done there.

It would be helpful though if you learn the basics of how to " slice" your files for printing as the techs at the libraries sometimes don't know much about it in general.

"Slicing" means loading the free downloads you get from thingiverse on a software and specify how you want it printed for that particular printer.
The software literally slices the parts into thousands of slices and maps the way the printer is going to tackle the job.
You will need to tell the printer how much "infill" you want as well as other parameters like walls/shells etc.

I watched a few YouTube tutorials on 3d printing and was soon on my way to "slicing" my own files :thumbsup::)

Of course, if you invest in your own printer or have a friend who has one then is total different story :thumbsup::cool:

There is a learning curve for sure and you may need to reprint a part or two if something goes wrong ( trust me me lol )
That's why I made this tutorial to possibly be able to help someone else interested in building it.

The actual build does not take too long, what takes long is waiting more than 6 weeks for ALi express to send me the steel rods LOL.

You probably need a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut up up the little piece of metal that is glued on the holders for your digital angle gauge and to cut the steel rod. I also used my bench grinder to smooth and shape that piece of metal and to round off the ends of the rods.

Once you understand the whole thing is quite simple actually, funny how things that seem daunting at first seem so easy once you do it once and understand it.

I'll be happy to answer any more questions you may have.
 
777Edge

Great system, looks like. Would your fine tuning adjustment work on a Edge Pro Apex?

Hi BWYO, check out this link, it may be what you are looking for.

 
777Edge

Great system, looks like. Would your fine tuning adjustment work on a Edge Pro Apex?
I have a dedicated fine tuning adapter and many other upgrades specifically for the edge pro apex. Also free to make for yourself, just like my other designs.

Here is a link for you:


These upgrades will not only give you a fine tuning adapter for your edge pro, but it will allow you to sharpen scissors, chisels, large blades (with magnetic support), and much more.

Enjoy!
 
777 Edge 777 Edge Please make a long knife attachment stackable with vertical support. :)
For stowage, everything (including the vertical knife support) is stackable with some longer screws through the front feet holes, or behind the scissors clamp when not in use. I designed it so you have plenty of stacking and stowing options.

If you have the rotating clamp and its adapter, it is stowable at the bottom of the unit in the screw holes just behind the magnets.

Even the chisel clamp is designed to be stackable when not in use. The holes are spaced so any adapter can stow in any set of holes.
 
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Does seem daunting but wicked cool, with a very useful end product. You got me thinking Dan :thumbsup:

Great detailed posts. Thanks.
 
I found the perfect place to store my Leading Edge Sharpener, ... our living room coffee table 😮.
My wife is not too pleased but I think she will get used to it :D

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I am also excited this morning as Treatstock just emailed me that they have accepted the files I submitted for printing.

I'll be getting the new updated clamp holder and clamps, the optional removable foot, the chisel clamp etc :thumbsup:

I initially did not print the chisel clamp but on second thought I went for it as I do use a couple chisels I have occasionally. They come handy to remove the little nub from the bottom of my bowl turnings and they really need sharpening :thumbsup:
 
I'm not marketing this, as it's free to make one for yourself guys, but apparently Gritomatic has an assembled one and will have it on display at Blade Show 2021 in Atlanta if anyone wanted to go check it out this coming weekend. Wish I could have been there to go see the show.

Maybe one day I'll get to see the epic Blade Show...one can only dream. 😥
 
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Does seem daunting but wicked cool, with a very useful end product. You got me thinking Dan :thumbsup:

Great detailed posts. Thanks.

Welcome Ray :)

I you decide to go for it I'd be more than happy to assist with questions you may have based on my own experience in putting it together.
( also feel free to pm me as well anyone )

I will put up more assembly pictures soon once I get the new parts :thumbsup:

Also, it's about time I get to sharpening, right :thumbsup::cool:

I am getting a new Grohmann Bird and Trout this week in Stag ( special order and long awaited )

I will be reprofiling/sharpening it it to 15 dps and posting pics here too :thumbsup::cool:
 
So my long awaited Grohmann Bird and Trout arrived yesterday and was the first knife I sharpened and reprofiled on the Leading Edge system.

I don't have a whole lot of experience with sharpening however I am enjoying the learning journey very much and I am very happy with the results I got on my new knife.

I used the rather "economical" :) diamond hones I got from Ali express and I must say they worked very well :thumbsup:
I made sure I lubricated them with soapy water as this is essential to extend their working life.

You will see in this picture some homemade acrylic lapping plates I use with 3M psa abrasive films.
In the end I ended up using just the diamond stones and a leather strop with green compound )

AyiXUex.jpg


I was having issues measuring my angles until I realized the end of my table would flex down when I would rest my arms on it 😮 so I moved to a more sturdy table :)

Zeroed on the main platform

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Flat grind angle

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Set angle for 15 degrees sharpening

4.30 grind angle divide by 2 = 2.15 degrees

Add 2.15 to 15 = 17.15
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SHARP :)
( my sharpest knife so far) :thumbsup:

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There is a learning curve as in anything in life.

My main issue was with burr removal and refining the edge once I got the burr ( but this applies to all sharpening regardless of method )

Next time someone slap me on the back of my head if you catch me using too much pressure while sharpening 😁:cool:
I hope is not necessary LOL as I finally realized the importance of using light pressure and letting the stone do the work. In fact I was almost lifting the very fine grit stones at the end.

A couple issues to consider based on this one experience.

It helps to sit on a higher chair or stool for a better more ergonomic work environment.

One of the cheap little rubber stick on feet came off and was messing with my angles until I realized and took them all of ( use quality 3M brand if you need to )

I then put the unit in an anti slip mat and worked like a charm. :thumbsup:

Make sure your fine tuner adapter holding screw is tight and secured and once you dial your angle tighten the pivot holder screw as well ( I did not do this on one occasion and it messed my angle slightly )

What I love about this system :

The fine tuner adapter is a game changer :thumbsup::cool:

I liked how easy it was to grab the knife to inspect it/flip it using the magnet system.

I like the way the rod travels almost horizontally for the commonly used sharpening angles.
It's very ergonomic and this allowed me to have a better "feel" for the steel as compared to my other system where the rod travels more in an up/down motion.


My Grohmann Bird and Trout is now ready for this summer adventures and I am a very happy man :)

Cheers :)
 
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777 Edge 777 Edge Please make a long knife attachment stackable with vertical support. :)
Here is a photo of stowage options. Note this is only one example, I designed it so you can have countless ways to stack and stow the accessories together when not in use.

This is viewed from below.

Stacked for stowage from left to right in the photo you have the Scissors clamp, Vertical knife support, Large blade magnetic attachment and Chisel clamp adapter (in white) stacked and screwed into the same holes that is used for the new printable front foot.

All you need are screws long enough and everything stacks nicely.

Stowage can be on the inside, outside, front, back, top or bottom. Your choice!

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Hi folks, got a package from Treatstock today. :thumbsup: :cool:

Some very cool updated clamps, extra base ( to mount the magnets flush this time lol ) , a bar that attaches to the system to allow it to work with aftermarket aluminum clamps etc.

Looking forward to playing with my new "lego" set :) and updating this thread.

Keep in mind the the basic system ( without the clamps and other accessories ) is all what most people would probably want and need and is quite easy to assemble.

( do not let this pile of parts intimidate you :) )

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Treatstock delivered once again in a fast and very affordable way.
If anybody needs more info on how to go about ordering 3D prints online you are welcomed to pm me.
 
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