Recommendation? Manix 2 with G-10 (dark blue ) S110V , found a great deal and it's on the way ...but now second guessing the steel .

I'm a mechanic by trade and a gun nut by hobby (well when I had the time. Now I do knives 🥴) haven't worried about taking one apart yet (including the otf's). Now taking apart springer air rifles can be sporty (kinda like asking out a redhead).

It's all in the execution. The sample I handled was fidget friendly by my standards but I also enjoyed my old microtech that most guys couldn't open. (Obscenely heavy action for some reason).

Just got done carving cardboard and PVC pipe with the native s110. It did great.
 
Honestly, I love fidgeting with the Manix. It’s got some of the best ergos of any knife I’ve felt, and the CBB is very smooth which just makes it a pleasure to work with. While I’m not sold at all on S110v, the design and build quality of the Manix is fantastic in both of my examples (the S110v G10, and a BD1n lightweight).
I completely agree !:)

But I have seen complaints about difficult action and mods to weaken the spring etc .

I've been very well satisfied with the LW and XL models I own ...just as received , with minimal break-in . :cool:
 
I have a fancy ngl-0 low temp high rpm grease that works pretty awesome in all the knives I've tested. I'm not a fan of lightening the lock spring. If it doesn't flick easy so be it.

It made my pm2 Crucarta flickable and drop shutty
 
One benefit of the Blurple Spydies is that they are lighter than than other similar models set up in the same way. I have a regular (S30v G10) PM2 and a Blurple PM2. Same with the Manix 2, the Para 3, and the Native 5. Even though they all have G10 scales, the Blurples all feel noticeably lighter. I will one day weigh all of them to confirm.
With the exception of the Manix, the blurple models weigh the same as their standard S30V/S45VN G10 counterparts. The blurple Manix weighs the same as the sprint/exclusive versions with skeletonized liners.
 
To the OP, you are not the life of the party.

Read enough reviews of Rolls Royce, you'll find a gripe. The Manix in S110v a great knife, with a great steel, made by a reputable smith, for crying out loud.
I love mine, it is harder to sharpen than 440c, but stays sharp a long time. It's good for cutting things, not great for chopping firewood or prying nails out of bricks. I doubt you will get "chips" large enough to warrant a warranty claim, maybe 1/264" chips if you use it like a pocketknife. Mine hasn't chipped after dropping it on pavement.
 
To the OP, you are not the life of the party.

Read enough reviews of Rolls Royce, you'll find a gripe. The Manix in S110v a great knife, with a great steel, made by a reputable smith, for crying out loud.
I love mine, it is harder to sharpen than 440c, but stays sharp a long time. It's good for cutting things, not great for chopping firewood or prying nails out of bricks. I doubt you will get "chips" large enough to warrant a warranty claim, maybe 1/264" chips if you use it like a pocketknife. Mine hasn't chipped after dropping it on pavement.
This brings up an interesting question. Will any pocket knife chip if used as a pocket knife should be used? I use my pocket knives for cutting food, packages, rope, etc. Never had a pocket knife chip out, even with the cheapest steels. The only time I’ve experienced chips with any blades was hard chopping of wood and those were designed for it. Anyone experience chips on a regular basis with your pocketknife and what were you doing with it? Genuinely curious
 
This brings up an interesting question. Will any pocket knife chip if used as a pocket knife should be used? I use my pocket knives for cutting food, packages, rope, etc. Never had a pocket knife chip out, even with the cheapest steels. The only time I’ve experienced chips with any blades was hard chopping of wood and those were designed for it. Anyone experience chips on a regular basis with your pocketknife and what were you doing with it? Genuinely curious
I have a lone wolf in s30 from the early to mid 2000's that chipped so bad it's now qualified as serrated. I'll dig it out the next time I think about it. Still works great but the chipping is real
 
About the same price I paid . "Amazon Warehouse" , which might mean a return , or just damaged packaging etc .

Supposed to "like new " with original box etc . Welp , we'll see . I've had both good and bad from them .
😭 Just now received and opened ...it's going back ASAP !

It's
actually a blue LW CTS BD1 Manix 2 . Not what they sold me . And not much of a bargain used ,either .

I already have a black one , for which I paid less brand new . Great knife , but not what I ordered here .

If you want a bargain , you have risk some hassles and disappointment .

My appetite is whetted to try one of the super ER steels, now . So I'll just keep looking out for one in my cheapskate price range . ;)
 
This brings up an interesting question. Will any pocket knife chip if used as a pocket knife should be used? I use my pocket knives for cutting food, packages, rope, etc. Never had a pocket knife chip out, even with the cheapest steels. The only time I’ve experienced chips with any blades was hard chopping of wood and those were designed for it. Anyone experience chips on a regular basis with your pocketknife and what were you doing with it? Genuinely curious
I have had some microchips in an early s30v PM2. They were super small and didnt cause problems on normal EDC use (which is where they came from). No prying, no hard cutting boards. I honestly dont know where it came from. Took a handful of touch ups to sharpen them out. I rarely fully re-profile my blades. It did irritate me because when cutting certain things you could feel them catch.

Havent had that problem in 10 years maybe? And since we are talking S110V, havent had it happen yet.
 
Got my manix2 today. I like it. Took a minute to figure out what made it a second. Seems like an easy enough fix
KimvyFc.jpeg

Some light buffing should open it up easily enough
 
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