Minimalist utility knife.

I read about the EAB, as it looked good. Nitpick: Didnt really like, that it needs a screwdriver to change the blade.


Thats surprising. Looks good in the pics but I never handled the EAB so couldnt tell one way or the other. Just goes to show, that just because a clip is wide and looks sturdy, it might not be anchored well (if that was where it snapped).
After you unscrew it once you can screw it down by hand with your finger nail or something common at hand to make changing it easier and tool-less. I could have just gotten a defective one but it was thin on mine and a main reason mine snapped and became clip-less.
 
I personally dont find them mutually exclusive (a small utilty knife and micro tool).
(snip...)
The 'Travel' version of the Dime is TSA approved (no blade). I find it very useful when travelling.

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Nod. I have a Micra that I modified with a Dremmel by cutting off the blade and I use it for business travel day trips.

Pro-tip: open it up fully, put it in a small TSA inspection bowl, and alert the attendant that you're sending a blameless tool through. They usually thank me.
 
Nod. I have a Micra that I modified with a Dremmel by cutting off the blade and I use it for business travel day trips.

Pro-tip: open it up fully, put it in a small TSA inspection bowl, and alert the attendant that you're sending a blameless tool through. They usually thank me.
I had a TSA lady triumphantly proclaim the Dime Travel a weapon one time. I said it was TSA approved hence the name Travel and that it had no blade. What ensued was comical; she opened the small screwdriver and tapped the tip of the screwdriver with gloved hand whilst throwing me suspicious glances hoping I would break down in a sweat and admit to it being a weapon. Then the same with the file - tap tap - and the zipper guide (kind of a hook for helping a stuck zipper along), then she found the scissors and beamed thinking she caught the offender of the year.
At this point her supervisor came over to see, what was holding up the line. I explained, the supervisor sighed and said, that everything looked to be fine and that I could move along.
 
Nod. I have a Micra that I modified with a Dremmel by cutting off the blade and I use it for business travel day trips.
I heartedly recommend the Dime Travel. I was never really impressed by the traditional Gerber tools (Multi-plier 600 etc), that I saw many of my buddies carry (they seemed to quite like them) but must admit, that the quality of the Dime is just fine. I have the regular Dime and the Travel version.
 
Pro-tip: open it up fully, put it in a small TSA inspection bowl, and alert the attendant that you're sending a blameless tool through. They usually thank me.
Not a bad tip but must admit, that I just cant be bothered. With the amount of travelling I do and often multiple security check point on a trip to a destination, I have travelling down to a T (no lace boots/shoes, 5.11 belt with synthetic buckle, shirt over belt etc etc). Most often security doesnt even notice the Dime Travel or they just ignore it. The above mentioned post with the TSA check is the exception. The Dime Travel has gone through countless security checks without anybody batting an eyelid let alone opening it.
 
Not keen on the magnet on the Screwpop though. I dont need to stick a utility knife on my fridge or any other metal surface and I dont like (even small) magnets around my automatic watches.

I'll give you that. I have a love/hate with the magnet. Like yourself, I dont want to get it around stuff sensitive to magnetism, but I also find it sticking to stuff like my steel keyring.

That said, the use of magnetics is super nifty in application. I like that when I unlock the blade the magnet automatically sheaths the blade. It's fun to fiddle with.
 
I'll give you that. I have a love/hate with the magnet. Like yourself, I dont want to get it around stuff sensitive to magnetism, but I also find it sticking to stuff like my steel keyring.

That said, the use of magnetics is super nifty in application. I like that when I unlock the blade the magnet automatically sheaths the blade. It's fun to fiddle with.
No doubt they can be nifty and Im most likely in the minority in regards to my stance on magnets. Most seem to get along with magnets on their gadgets just fine (wallets, lights, knives etc).
I bought one of those excellent Olight micro flashlights ('Mini Baton' or something). Nice beam, not greedy on batteries and fits in the coin pocket on a pair of jeans. Great flashlight but first thing I did was open it and remove the magnet in the end cap.
I get that its great for slapping a light on a metal surface and work on something like the engine of a car or what ever.
 
The lock on the screwpop seems to be easy to manipulate- does it open in your pocket or is there some form of detent holding it shut?
 
Which utility knife do you prefer?

I looked at several before narrowing it down to a couple. The Screwpop seems popular, its small and cheap as well.
Some reviews claims, that the Screwpop is noisy and that it rattles. This wouldnt bother me even if true, as long as the blade is held securely. I mean, what does people expect from these small pocket tools.

After looking at the Screwpop, I happened to come across the Quark. Very nice little utility blade holder. Good quality and its both practical in use and holds the blade securely in all three positions.

The nice things about these tools; minimalist, blades can be had most everywhere. Excellent for those who travel. In regards to those keeping one of these on a keyring; its nice that you can just dump the blade (for example in the airport, if you forgot about having the tool on the keyring) and buy a new blade at your destination thus having a non threathening blade for mundane tasks on your travels.

When I first visited the Quark site, I was offered a discount. With the tool being of a nice quality and not expensive to begin with, the choice was easy.

There are a plethora of small(-ish) pocket tools on the market. Some makes more sense than others.
The Rexford RUT for example didnt appeal to me. Too big and silly expensive (Im not about to pay $130+ for a small utility blade holder) Why they stuck a cap lifter on the end seems to defeat the purpose of a minimalist pocket tool IMO.
On the bay, there was a very inexpensive clone of the RUT but that was of course out of the question.

The Quark is excellent and I use it almost daily.

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I believe the new Screwpop version has a magnet on the side to prevent the rattle.
 
I read about the EAB, as it looked good. Nitpick: Didnt really like, that it needs a screwdriver to change the blade.


Thats surprising. Looks good in the pics but I never handled the EAB so couldnt tell one way or the other. Just goes to show, that just because a clip is wide and looks sturdy, it might not be anchored well (if that was where it snapped).

I picked up a Gerber EAB Lite at my local Wally on a whim about a year ago and I have to say it's a handy little guy and u don't notice it. As far as the screw holding the blade, usually loose change works or I always have something around so it's no biggie.
 
Which utility knife do you prefer?

I looked at several before narrowing it down to a couple. The Screwpop seems popular, its small and cheap as well.
Some reviews claims, that the Screwpop is noisy and that it rattles. This wouldnt bother me even if true, as long as the blade is held securely. I mean, what does people expect from these small pocket tools.

After looking at the Screwpop, I happened to come across the Quark. Very nice little utility blade holder. Good quality and its both practical in use and holds the blade securely in all three positions.

The nice things about these tools; minimalist, blades can be had most everywhere. Excellent for those who travel. In regards to those keeping one of these on a keyring; its nice that you can just dump the blade (for example in the airport, if you forgot about having the tool on the keyring) and buy a new blade at your destination thus having a non threathening blade for mundane tasks on your travels.

When I first visited the Quark site, I was offered a discount. With the tool being of a nice quality and not expensive to begin with, the choice was easy.

There are a plethora of small(-ish) pocket tools on the market. Some makes more sense than others.
The Rexford RUT for example didnt appeal to me. Too big and silly expensive (Im not about to pay $130+ for a small utility blade holder) Why they stuck a cap lifter on the end seems to defeat the purpose of a minimalist pocket tool IMO.
On the bay, there was a very inexpensive clone of the RUT but that was of course out of the question.

The Quark is excellent and I use it almost daily.

n7MlUYw.jpg


NSamomU.jpg
mL1xYC1.jpg

I was thinking of getting one of these but came to a realization that made me hesitate...(I also realized it is probably an issue with almost all of these knives from the humble screwpop to the mighty Rexford RUT)

What prevents the edge from contacting the bottom channel the blade rides in? I worry this would dull the edge particularly since the “blade holder” is steel which is also fairly hard and the blade slides forward dragging across the steel.

Does the edge drag along the bottom of the channel the blade rides in? One more thing....

For knife designs like this I usually protect the edge by cutting a thin strip of credit card plastic and gluing it into the bottom of the channel. How ever on this knife I worry there may not be enough room to do this. In your opinion will I be able to do this? Do you think there is enough room in there to fit that little strip of credit card?

I worry there might not be since you said the blade didn’t rattle in the handle so that means there can’t be alot of room in there.
 
I was thinking of getting one of these but came to a realization that made me hesitate...(I also realized it is probably an issue with almost all of these knives from the humble screwpop to the mighty Rexford RUT)

What prevents the edge from contacting the bottom channel the blade rides in? I worry this would dull the edge particularly since the “blade holder” is steel which is also fairly hard and the blade slides forward dragging across the steel.
Thats not a bad point. However, while it very likely rides on the bottom of the channel for the blade, I wouldnt worry about it. The blade doesnt seem to get dulled significantly from the housing and even if there is an insignificant amount of drag, it doesnt matter with the availability and low price of the blades. Ive used mine a bunch and the blades stay sharp for plenty of time. The current blade has seen quite some use and is still sharp.

For knife designs like this I usually protect the edge by cutting a thin strip of credit card plastic and gluing it into the bottom of the channel. How ever on this knife I worry there may not be enough room to do this. In your opinion will I be able to do this? Do you think there is enough room in there to fit that little strip of credit card?
Nope, absolutely not. There is no room to slip a strip of credit card-like plastic between the edge and the housing. I might snap a pic later to illustrate.
While I understand where you are coming from and have done the same (in my case a strip of leather between the edge and housing of for example the Higo in the pics below to prevent the edge from smacking/dulling on the handle when snapping shut), I personally would consider it overkill in regards to this simple tool for the reasons stated earlier in this post.

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Thats not a bad point. However, while it very likely rides on the bottom of the channel for the blade, I wouldnt worry about it. The blade doesnt seem to get dulled significantly from the housing and even if there is an insignificant amount of drag, it doesnt matter with the availability and low price of the blades. Ive used mine a bunch and the blades stay sharp for plenty of time. The current blade has seen quite some use and is still sharp.


Nope, absolutely not. There is no room to slip a strip of credit card-like plastic between the edge and the housing. I might snap a pic later to illustrate.
While I understand where you are coming from and have done the same (in my case a strip of leather between the edge and housing of for example the Higo in the pics below to prevent the edge from smacking/dulling on the handle when snapping shut), I personally would consider it overkill in regards to this simple tool for the reasons stated earlier in this post.

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NZnYQSy.jpg




I’m not too worried about the higonokamis because the edge doesn’t drag against the channel but rather just touches it. Particularly the brass handle higos since brass is much softer than steel. Nevertheless I have still glued credit card strips into the channel of the Higos I own. Really any edge damage could likely be prevented on a higo by closing the knife slowly; sodnn.

However on my small higo for some reason the pivot becomes fairly loose just around when the blade is almost closed. That means that if I close the blade and give the handle a gentle shake the blade will bounce off the inside of the handle.

FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades I saw before that you somehow pinched the Higonokami’s handle so that way the blade edge couldn’t hit the inside of the handle. What did you use to pinch the handle? Pliars?

Could we get some pics of your higo mod if you still have it?
 
I’m not too worried about the higonokamis because the edge doesn’t drag against the channel but rather just touches it. Particularly the brass handle higos since brass is much softer than steel. Nevertheless I have still glued credit card strips into the channel of the Higos I own. Really any edge damage could likely be prevented on a higo by closing the knife slowly; sodnn.

However on my small higo for some reason the pivot becomes fairly loose just around when the blade is almost closed. That means that if I close the blade and give the handle a gentle shake the blade will bounce off the inside of the handle.

FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades I saw before that you somehow pinched the Higonokami’s handle so that way the blade edge couldn’t hit the inside of the handle. What did you use to pinch the handle? Pliars?

Could we get some pics of your higo mod if you still have it?
As I wrote, I put the strip of leather in the channel of the Higo to prevent the edge smacking the metal upon closing (I close the Higo gently but none the less).
I looked at the brass version prior to buying; I like that one as well.
 
I’m not too worried about the higonokamis because the edge doesn’t drag against the channel but rather just touches it. Particularly the brass handle higos since brass is much softer than steel. Nevertheless I have still glued credit card strips into the channel of the Higos I own. Really any edge damage could likely be prevented on a higo by closing the knife slowly; sodnn.

However on my small higo for some reason the pivot becomes fairly loose just around when the blade is almost closed. That means that if I close the blade and give the handle a gentle shake the blade will bounce off the inside of the handle.

FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades I saw before that you somehow pinched the Higonokami’s handle so that way the blade edge couldn’t hit the inside of the handle. What did you use to pinch the handle? Pliars?

Could we get some pics of your higo mod if you still have it?

I don't have any photos on hand, but I use use a Knipex mini pliers-wrench along with a piece of cardboard as a pad to keep the jaw edges from imprinting on the metal. I close the handle fold more in general, but specifically at the point corresponding with the edge shoulder at the peak of the blade so it rests on the edges of the frame much like a straight razor. Often in this process the pivot loosens because there isn't any spring pressure on it anymore from the handle fold, so I tighten it up with a few raps of a hammer on my wide-faced peening anvil, which is mirror polished.
 
I don't have any photos on hand, but I use use a Knipex mini pliers-wrench along with a piece of cardboard as a pad to keep the jaw edges from imprinting on the metal. I close the handle fold more in general, but specifically at the point corresponding with the edge shoulder at the peak of the blade so it rests on the edges of the frame much like a straight razor. Often in this process the pivot loosens because there isn't any spring pressure on it anymore from the handle fold, so I tighten it up with a few raps of a hammer on my wide-faced peening anvil, which is mirror polished.

You ever consider selling “fixed” higos?
 
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