New Spyderco fixed blade?

[PhilL]

1.For me the right blade length for everyday carry is just under 4", it's what's legal for me.
2.I agree less is more, and form follows function.
3.I believe your true collectors expect to pay a premium for something Special, that's why they buy customs. I'm a big fan of you and your company, although I don't own as many Spyderco's as many members of the Forums. What I would have to buy is something that is special with some real collectability to it. For me that means Limited Editions, hard to get. That's why I was so fixated on the C27, plus it was a Spyderco/Horn, with something besides a black handle.

Just one man's opinion.
PhilL

 

[Fozzy]

Question 1: IMO blade length should be between 3.5" and 4.5". No more, no less. Legalities in various localities notwithstanding.

Question 2: I agree with Sal. Form follows function. One caveat: Err on the side of strength.

Question 3: As a 'user' of all of my 'collected' knives, I'd like to see 'user-grade' product. G-10 handles with a finish like the BF Native would be my first choice. (In blue maybe...

)

Thanks for listening Sal.

Ben

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"If you're upside down and burning, you probably went too fast."

 

[GC]

Sal,
Just under 4" blade, 3 7/8" or so would be perfect. Hunter style blade, drop point or something similar. I agree, light is right. A user, but a little better grade. Nice G-10 scales, great blade steel, Spyder sharp, quality sheath, man I can't wait!

 

[Burke]

1. I'd like to see a 3 7/8 inch blade.
2. Of course, but with a sub-four-inch blade, it won't weigh too much to overbuild a little.
3. Make it a user, not a collectable. Then I can afford one.

I have a few questions that would clarify my mental image of this knife.

1) What blade shape do you plan on using? Those tactical Wharncliffes I see on Mr. Griffith's web-site look nice -- flat edge for easy sharpening and utility, pointy tip for good penetration, and many utility tasks (e.g., picking splinters, prying staples). I would request that you avoid a tanto -- there are plenty of those out already, and I don't think they make the best use of blade length, something important in a small knife.

2) What steel do you plan on using? I would, in a Martial Bladecraft knife, prefer something that favors sharpness and toughness over edge-retention. Others are more qualified to judge what steel would be best suited than I.
3) Finally, I would request a handle useable in many different grips -- hammer, saber, reverse hammer, and ice-pick/reverse ice-pick are the most important ones to me. A subtle finger choil would aid in indexing and grip security, without detracting from handle comfort.

Thank you for reading all this -- sometimes I get a little carried away, and the thought of a new FB Spyderco will do it every time.

 

[sing]

For me, a blade of around 4" is ideal, allowing for ease of carry but still sizable enough for most chores. It should be full tang but the stock need not be more than 1/8" thick with a distal taper.

I think either a clip or drop point configuration lends itself to utility as well as martial bladecraft.

The handle, like most spyderco's, should be allow for a sure comfy grip. For martial bladecraft, it should also have an index cutout. The handle should be flat to allow for sure manipulation in grip changes. I would prefer G10 or a rough micarta.

I think something along the lines of VG10 is probably tougher than 440V. The latter takes an incredible edge but I think the Outlaw Dogboy "staple incident" raises some question about toughness.

Definitely, a user rather than a collector's knife. You make the initial run a collector's item with serial numbers and a different color handle. For Spyderco, the bread & butter comes from making the quintessential user's knife. Don't stray from that.

sing

AKTI A000356

 

[Cronnacht]

Happy Winter Holiday of Your Choice!
Four inches seems like a good balance I'd prefer to see a "user" come out prior to a collector. See how the first version goes, and then release a limited edition with a blade design by someone notable...Or a collaboration with a new name. Let the shape of the knife flow from it's purpose. Maybe a nice utilitarian drop point with some subtle recurve?
Regardless, I'm sure that whatever you come up with will be spectacular!
-Jim

 

[automantic]

1.) 4-5" blade sounds good.

2.) I belive that form and function should go side by side. I really like things that are way over done, but I appreciate simpler things as well.

3.) I would go with the user, but I would make it really nice.

Whatever you chose I am sure you will sell alot of. You can't go wrong with a combat/utility fixed blade in your line.

Later,
John

 

[David Rock]

Sal, here are my answers to your three questions:

1. 4.5" is a bit too long for me. If what you have in mind is an every-day carry multi-purpose knife, it should be easy to conceal and comfortable to carry. The Moran Featherweight works pretty well in this respect. If only it were a drop point! Also, it wouldn't bother me if the handle were a tad flatter, for carrying under clothing with less bulge.

2. Light is good. I want a knife I can actually use to cut stuff, like food. Especially food. Yeah, I know, nobody besides James Mattis wants to buy a kitchen knife, but that's what I'd use it for more than anything. In other words, the blade should not be too thick. The Fallkniven F1 is too thick. The Moran Featherweight (again) is about right. Make mine full flat ground, por favor, and VG-10 will be fine. A molded handle of FRN would do nicely. Again, I think the Moran is an excellent model to begin with. Certainly tough enough for any human ELU. Coolness is cool, which would indicate G-10 and screws for those who care, but if function is to be the primary issue, FRN is probably a better choice all around.

3. High speed, low drag is the way to go. Be true to your original Spyder-philosophy. I want the most efficient cutting tool you can create, with no concessions made to fads or appearance.

And I would prefer to have no thumb ramp or hump of any kind, as I like to put my thumb well forward on the spine sometimes for tough cutting chores. I can live with a hump, but put it on the blade, not on the handle, so it won't force me to hold the knife a certain way, and I can always grind it off if I don't like it. Also, I dislike agressive thumb grooves or notches, as they can hang up on clothing and impede withdrawal of the knife. (Incidentally, the handle ramp is the one thing I don't quite like about the Benchmade 710, and the thumb notches are the one thing I don't quite like about the Military.)

Thanks, as always, for listening.

David Rock

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AKTI Member # A000846
Stop when you get to bone.

 

[scorpio]

hey sal,
great idea,this knife is surely missed on the spyderco line.
my 2 cents.. it should be 4-4.5 inch in lengh keep it simple[user knife]-g-10 handels or zytel+kryton kydex sheath[narrow]
and it should be priced around $100 retail.
that should be a real winner.
i liked the nimravus by benchmade but they did 2 things wrong..it is priced too high,almost the price of the handmades you can get and the second is a fatal mistake on the sheath which is totaly wrong.
the sheath should be nealy style and the blade configuration?- randall no.1 style blade sounds nice or something like chris reeve spearpoint blades.
scorpio.

 

[Dannyc]

Hi Sal!

1. We have blade size at 4.5" being "optimum" blade length for a fixed blade that one may carry all of the time.
If you agree, please let us know, if not, why not?

Yes, I think 4.5" would be the optimum. It's not too long, and the blade won't be folder-sized. A folder can handle the tasks that requires 4" and below blade length.

2. It has always been my opinion that in design; "no more than necessary & no less than perfect" is the direction I choose to go. This means no more weight than is necessary. This measns "as light as is possible without giving up strength". (Keep in mind the "carry all of the time" feature.
Do you agree, if not, why not?

It should be light, but not to the extent of sacrificing strength. Spyderco has shown time and again that knives can be lightweight and strong at the same time (i.e. Military).

Maybe it'll depend on what steel would be used. Great choices would be VG-10, or even 440V (though the latter would make it more expensive I think?).

3. Some of you are suggesting "collector" pieces (stag Loveless, etc. fairly expensive hand work). Some of you are suggesting "user" pieces (less expensive, high tech, "tough", effective if needed, etc.).
Pick one or the other.

User pieces, definitely.

I would like something that can be depended on when the need arises. For those who wants some collector pieces, maybe the first runs can be numbered or something.

I have always gotten excellent feedback from those of you that grace our forum and give us the opportunity to "grow from your wisdom" (exploit?)

Whatchathink?

I think it's about time to dig deeper into our pockets... hehehehe..

As to the "exploit" thing, there's no problem coz we, the users, will ultimately benefit from that.

And of course, we'll be mighty proud of it, too!

I sure hope this one pushes through. I know Spyderco is pretty tied up with a lot of other projects and stuff, but a second FB model would really make our day.

This is exactly why I'm holding off in getting a nimravus. I'm waiting for Spyderco to come up with an alternative.

Dan

 

[Yekim]

Blade length: Something in the 5" range or so with a "baby" version that is sub 4".


Make it a User....Take a few of them and serial them and have your signature engraved on them for the limited edition junkies.

I got other ideas, but they pertain to my own projects.

YeK




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My Mom carries three knives.
AKTI # A000348

 

[KenN]

Sal,

4.5" blade sounds about right as a starting point for a martial bladecraft piece. As already stated by others, Spyderco already produces numerous 4" and sub 4" folders that can handle most cutting tasks in that range just fine, not to mention the great little Moran.
Overall, feel should lean towards the 'user' catagory. The purity of its function will be what makes it attractive(plus, anything that gets 'Spyderized' usually looks good anyhow.)
The fact that this item will be a MBC piece(low-key marketed and maybe low production #'s?) should put it in a rare status as is. If there is a real need for a 'dressed up' piece. I'm sure Santa Fe Stoneworks could wow us all.
Thanks for the opportunity to feedback.

Ken

 

[bald1]

Sal,

Both the Simonich Talonite Wambli and Rinaldi Talonite Chimera I had built have 4" blades which I consider optimal. Although length isn't a problem here in SD, 4" is the max in many areas for "in and around carry".

I totally concur with the minimalist philosophy. Nuff said

!

While I believe the utilitarian "user" configuration will sell best, I'd still like to see a limited offering of a more upscale version for those so inclined.



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-=[Bob Allman]=-

I did NOT escape from the institution! They gave me a day pass!

BFC member since the very beginning
Member: American Knife & Tool Institute; Varmint Hunters Association;
National Rifle Association; Praire Thunder Inc.; Rapid City Rifle Club;
Spearfish Rifle & Pistol Club; Buck Collectors Club (prime interest: 532s)
Certified Talonite(r) enthusiast!

 

[Jiantbrane2]

Hmm... Here's what I'm thinking: The Spydersword!
20" blade
10" handle
Kydex sheath
The Round Hole somewhere on the crossholt for one hand drawing of the piece...

Seriously though, I think what you're saying is pretty much on point. The ideal length is subjective. Anywhere between 4-5" blade sounds good to me.

Howie

 

[Brian Lavin]

Again, I say, YES.
I think Danny said it best in this thread so I'll ditto him.

Brian

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A dedicated ELU
Buck Collectors Club Member
Knifeknut(just ask my wife)

 

[Mr Blonde]

A 4,5" blade is good, although I can also carry a 5" bladed FB quite comfortably, like my CRK Shadow IV. I like Yekims' idea, one 5 inch bladed knife and a baby version with a blade under 4 inches. Personally, I too want this knife to be a user all the way. Most importantly though, I want a good sheath, I hope Spyderco maintains the excellent sheath style as with the upgraded Moran featherweight.

 

[Dannyc]

Thanks, Brian.

Mine are merely my humble suggestions on what I believe would be a great fixed blade.

I guess the length doesn't stop at 4.5" alone. Some prefer around 7", some at 5" (though there are folders like that, the Sifu, and the CS Vaquero for example). Maybe a mid-sized FB would also be good, say a 6" or 7"? Healthy competition among FB makers, eh?

Steel options, I think Spyderco has that covered already, along with the quality, which we all grew to love with this company.

Choices, choices... Oh well, that's what R&D is all about, I guess.

Dan

 

[James Mattis]

If a knife, especially a fixed blade knife, is sold as a "martial bladecraft knife," isn't that a bit like telling the cop you're carrying it "for protection"? In most (though not all) juristictions, it's a good idea for a civilian be able to explain, with a straight face, why he or she would still have carried that knife in a perfectly non-violent world.

10cm puukko, anybody?

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- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com
AKTI Member # SA00001

 

[Nakano 2]

A 4.5" MAX drop point blade length of 3/16" or less would work well for different purposes. I believe a sub 4" length will qualify as well, under "legal" in most locales. Go with 440V or VG 10. High hollow grind or flat grind is ideal. Perhaps a slight false edge to aid in delicate work.

The handle should be dropped for better leverage with a rounded butt profile and an ample finger choil (groove)for proper indexing and to aid in preventing the using hand from sliding forward. If G10 will be used, _PLEASE_ have it nicely textured for a solid and secure working grip! Please refer to the BF Native Special Edition! And its edges should be nicely rounded unlike the BM Nimravi series. Micarta would be fine but for a working, low maintenance fix blade, G10 has a higher tensile and yield capacity and is more impervious to various chemicals.

Full tang construction with a thong hole is a must. Some parallel file work on the spine where the thumb rests is a definite plus.

And finally an IWB Kydex sheath would round out this project quite well.

A word on weight: a fix blade carries well on the belt and IME weight is not a big factor.

L8r,
Nakano

PS- Oh, did I mention a nice texture on the scales?

 

[Brian C]

1. For me, "carry all of the time" means keeping it legal which, in NYC, is <4". Let's say 3 3/4 -3 7/8" would be my ideal.

2. I agree with "as light as is possible without giving up strength". I'd like to add keep it as slim as possible w/o giving up strength as well.

3. Keep it a user with perhaps thin bead-blasted micarta scales. IMO, this would result in a practical piece that is attractive w/o unnecessarily adding to the cost.

As to blade shape, I'd like to see a modified spearpoint -- something like a drop point with a bit of a swedge. I'd also like to see a thong hole, file work on spine for thumb, & an IWB sheath. It is ready yet?

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--

aka Dagda the Insatiable, Member of the Terrible Ironic HORDE
"I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, Babe, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride."