Old farts and friction folders.

Gorgeous knife! What is the handle?
Thanks! It is cow horn tip. When cow horn is used on a knife, the tip is considered the best part because it's solid, dense and stable. When horn is heated and pressed to shape it into a more suitable handle, it is more likely to curl back to it's original shape, ruining the knife when it happens.

When using the horn tip, the handle is cut out without reshaping the horn itself, resulting in a very stable, tough handle.

The following pics give an idea of how a knife handle is cut out of the horn tip52717509_2170257076376669_8244529997750992896_n.jpg53408365_2170257133043330_1740670216943173632_n.jpg
 
One of two Tod Cutler friction folders I have, based on historic designs, but the originals didn't have extended tangs :thumbsup:

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That knife is so interesting, Jack!! Is the makers name actually Tod Cutler???
 
That knife is so interesting, Jack!! Is the makers name actually Tod Cutler???
Thanks Charlie, the second photo is from the book I sent you. Tod is actually called Tod Todeschini, but he is known as Tod Cutler, lots of great YT videos, and he makes some great daggers :thumbsup:
Less ironic than that fireman named Les McBurney
Or the Scottish dentist called Phil MacAvity! :D;):thumbsup:
 
Thanks! It is cow horn tip. When cow horn is used on a knife, the tip is considered the best part because it's solid, dense and stable. When horn is heated and pressed to shape it into a more suitable handle, it is more likely to curl back to it's original shape, ruining the knife when it happens.

When using the horn tip, the handle is cut out without reshaping the horn itself, resulting in a very stable, tough handle.

The following pics give an idea of how a knife handle is cut out of the horn tip
That’s really cool. Kind of like that idea said about sculpting, of finding the art that is already in the medium and cutting off the part that isn’t art. Or something like that. Haha. But it’s neat that he also shaped the blade to fit well with the curved horn handle. Very elegant piece!
 
Mickaël Moing "Higo", copper over iron.

This is super cool! It looks like it was rescued from a sunken ship!

Did anyone get in on that recent Higonokami Kickstarter? I think it is finished now, but I don’t know if I can link it here. I didn’t exactly understand the relationship but it seemed like it was being made by the same shop in Japan that makes the other popular Higos I see for sale. (Nagao? I find the names a challenge to keep straight.)

They had a wide blade version, almost like a cleaver blade that I thought was awesome but I didn’t want to spend quite that much on a Higo at the moment. I do want to add a higo to my collection at some point though.
 
I saw a youtube video where somebody translated them, and the instructions inside the box lid as well. Il’ll see if I can find it again.
Instruction card(?) in the box is writ in Kanji, too. 🙄.
Oh well. From descriptions on "other" sites attempting to sell the knife, they claim: "the maker's name and the blade steel are stamped on the handle."

I already know the maker. All the descriptions claim "blue paper" blade steel, but not which of the three grades of "blue paper" steel.
I will guess it isn't the "super blue" grade. "Super Blue" is supposedly somewhat brittle/chippy, from what I read, and of course much more costly, harder to sharpen ...

EDIT @ 19:26 MTN: Found a YT video.. Guy claims "Blue Paper Steel Number 2 blade."
 
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Instruction card(?) in the box is writ in Kanji, too. 🙄.
Oh well. From descriptions on "other" sites attempting to sell the knife, they claim: "the maker's name and the blade steel are stamped on the handle."

I already know the maker. All the descriptions claim "blue paper" blade steel, but not which of the three grades of "blue paper" steel.
I will guess it isn't the "super blue" grade. "Super Blue" is supposedly somewhat brittle/chippy, from what I read, and of course much more costly, harder to sharpen ...
If you look, you will see that the blade is laminated. The harder steel is clad in some softer stuff to prevent the blade from snapping. You can kinda see the line between the edge and the start of the bevel in this picture:
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