Opinel number 8

Joined
Jun 20, 2001
Messages
205
I got one of these in an order along with a few other bits and pieces, i thought why not, especially considering the good press they get. It cost me the equivalent of around fourteen dollars and is well worth twice that amount of money. I sharpened it on my Sharpmaker to a twenty degree per-side angle up to the flats of the white stones, this was a very easy task and the blade became very sharp very fast, it sails through cardboard and pulls hair easily, and has a high performance blade profile. The wooden handle is functional, though the opening and closing of the knife is very stiff, even when oiled. The locking ring is quite well designed in that it can be used to lock the blade closed as well as open, simple but effective. The 'carbon steel' blade forms a sort of surface tarnish easily, i left it after cutting an orange for a couple of minutes and a few small dull-coloured areas are apparent, i knew there was a danger of this when i left it, and did so anyway to assess how non-corrosion resistant the blade really is, it's important to remember that surface marks won't effect the performance of a knife. I would be happy to use this knife as an EDC if i wasn't spoilt on pocket clips and one-handed opening, though i've been considering a few modifications along those lines. If you're thinking of getting one of these as an around-the-house or garden beater, do yourself a favor and go ahead, it's not going to break the bank! :D
 
I love my OP8 and carry it with me whenever I anticipate a need for cutting food. In fact, I've made it a dedicated "food cutter" since I'm always carrying something else to cut boxes, rope, etc. with. The stiffness the knife shows when opening and closing is probably a good thing; as it wears, you may see some blade play. So, the long this takes, the better. I've been a fanatic about wiping my blade and keeping it coated with mineral oil when I'm done for the day, so, fortunately, no rusting or staining.

Cheers.
 
I know this might rub some of you the wrong way, but I'd also consider a decent sized Opinel as a self-defense knife when traveling abroad. Sure, it's not going to win a lot of points for speed draw, but it has a lock and won't break the bank when you lose it. My thought process is this: If I'm in a foreign country and find myself in a life/death situation (God forbid), my first reaction would be to run like hell. If that option's not there, out comes the Opinel, honed to a wicked edge. I take care of business, THEN run like hell, throw the knife in the nearest sewer or deep body of water and then catch the first thing smoking out of the country. There's no WAY that I, as a foreigner, am going to wait around and answer cops' questions. By tossing the Opinel, I've lost less than $15. And assuming that no scenario like this ever occurs, I can still use it to cut bread and salami and the like and then leave it with a friend as a gift when I fly home. I've travelled extensively in the Caribbean islands, Mexico, the Czech Republic, Turkey, Germany and Austria, and have always carried a cheap-but-stout folder with this in mind.
 
Originally posted by mnblade
My thought process is this: If I'm in a foreign country and find myself in a life/death situation (God forbid), my first reaction would be to run like hell. If that option's not there, out comes the Opinel, honed to a wicked edge. I take care of business, THEN run like hell, throw the knife in the nearest sewer or deep body of water and then catch the first thing smoking out of the country.

Wow Blade :).., in a "life/death" situation anywhere.., I'd want the best knife I had for defensive purposes, and not worry about the price! Far better to throw $750 in the nearest sewer and run like hell, than me getting thrown in the sewer. ;)

By the way.., I do love the Opinel. Probably the most bang for the buck I can think of for a beater...


"Hunters seek what they [WANT].., Seekers hunt what they [NEED]"
 
I have owned a number 12 for many years looks a bit worse for wear but still performs. A nice way i find to open it is if you hold the knife closed at the lock, blade facing down, and strike the butt on a hard surface (log, table, boot et.) this works well.
 
>"... in a "life/death" situation anywhere.., I'd want the best knife I had for defensive purposes, and not worry about the price! Far better to throw $750 in the nearest sewer and run like hell, than me getting thrown in the sewer."

==========================

Hmm. Well I'd <i>want</i> that too. But considering the most expensive knife I own is a Spydie Endura, a $750 knife is out of the question. Actually, I lied - I wouldn't want a $750 knife. Ever. If someone gave me one, I'd sell it and use the money to travel to some sketchy locale where I'd need to tote the aforementioned cheap-but-stout folder (and a SAK to open beers of course). :D
 
I know this might rub some of you the wrong way, but I'd also consider a decent sized Opinel as a self-defense knife when traveling abroad. Sure, it's not going to win a lot of points for speed draw, but it has a lock and won't break the bank when you lose it. My thought process is this: If I'm in a foreign country and find myself in a life/death situation (God forbid), my first reaction would be to run like hell. If that option's not there, out comes the Opinel, honed to a wicked edge. I take care of business, THEN run like hell, throw the knife in the nearest sewer or deep body of water and then catch the first thing smoking out of the country. There's no WAY that I, as a foreigner, am going to wait around and answer cops' questions. By tossing the Opinel, I've lost less than $15. And assuming that no scenario like this ever occurs, I can still use it to cut bread and salami and the like and then leave it with a friend as a gift when I fly home. I've travelled extensively in the Caribbean islands, Mexico, the Czech Republic, Turkey, Germany and Austria, and have always carried a cheap-but-stout folder with this in mind.
Necro'd =p

Dude if you're still here the Beechwood Opinels float in water lol
 
Melt some wax (Johnson's floor wax works great) into the blade slot and pivot and work it all around the handle to keep the wood from swelling and binding the blade. Found mine in Paris at a great knife shop (Courty & Fils) not far from the Louvre for $8 Euros. Takes a wicked edge and as others have noted, it's a great travel knife.
 
I have a #8. I also ordered a #10 and the dealer send me a whole carton of them! Anyway, I like the 10 a little better but I generally like longer blades. Either way, it’s a great value knife.
 
Melt some wax (Johnson's floor wax works great) into the blade slot and pivot and work it all around the handle to keep the wood from swelling and binding the blade. Found mine in Paris at a great knife shop (Courty & Fils) not far from the Louvre for $8 Euros. Takes a wicked edge and as others have noted, it's a great travel knife.
Just did this with paraffin wax on a brand new no.12 I just put a wicked edge on. Afterwards, lady friend was helping me can tomatoes and I gave her the 12 to use...when she was done she rinsed the entire open knife including the handle and threw it in a sink full of dish water. I loled at the impromptu test of your suggestion. Held up great, no swelling or binding.
 
Just did this with paraffin wax on a brand new no.12 I just put a wicked edge on. Afterwards, lady friend was helping me can tomatoes and I gave her the 12 to use...when she was done she rinsed the entire open knife including the handle and threw it in a sink full of dish water. I loled at the impromptu test of your suggestion. Held up great, no swelling or binding.
:thumbsup::D
 
Just did this with paraffin wax on a brand new no.12 I just put a wicked edge on. Afterwards, lady friend was helping me can tomatoes and I gave her the 12 to use...when she was done she rinsed the entire open knife including the handle and threw it in a sink full of dish water. I loled at the impromptu test of your suggestion. Held up great, no swelling or binding.
Why they can't do this at the factory is beyond me.
It is almost like buying a carbon fiber knife but after the knife (kit) arrives you have to go out and buy epoxy and finish the knife yourself.

Bought a piece of clothing ? Oh but you have to now go out and buy dye and finish the article yourself. Or you have to go out and buy buttons and sew them on. Hey . . . they put in the button holes didn't they . . . what are you complaining about !

Just something I love to hate.

PS: most all the knife makers who use wood in the handles use stabilized wood why can't Opinel ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? . . . ? . . . ?
LOL and the handles on those non Opinel knives are not even structural where as the key element in an Opinel is highly unstable and this greatly effects the basic usefulness of the knife.
Unlike the scales on the other maker's knives.

I'm just saying . . . hellooooooo
 
Why they can't do this at the factory is beyond me.
It is almost like buying a carbon fiber knife but after the knife (kit) arrives you have to go out and buy epoxy and finish the knife yourself.

Bought a piece of clothing ? Oh but you have to now go out and buy dye and finish the article yourself. Or you have to go out and buy buttons and sew them on. Hey . . . they put in the button holes didn't they . . . what are you complaining about !

Just something I love to hate.

PS: most all the knife makers who use wood in the handles use stabilized wood why can't Opinel ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? . . . ? . . . ?
LOL and the handles on those non Opinel knives are not even structural where as the key element in an Opinel is highly unstable and this greatly effects the basic usefulness of the knife.
Unlike the scales on the other maker's knives.

I'm just saying . . . hellooooooo
Idk dude I can't really complain too much at this price point. I've just dedicated an old olive jar and some wax just for dipping opinels lol
 
I can't really complain too much at this price point
That's OK . . . I'll do enough for both of us.
If I buy a pair of Levis and they are half price but I have to sew the zipper in or bang in the buttons my self . . .
I think I would rather pay the price of a REAL knife and not have to FFFFFFFFUUUUUUther work on it.
 
That's OK . . . I'll do enough for both of us.
If I buy a pair of Levis and they are half price but I have to sew the zipper in or bang in the buttons my self . . .
I think I would rather pay the price of a REAL knife and not have to FFFFFFFFUUUUUUther work on it.
Half isn't a price point though. Full is.
 
OK, OK . . . enough whining from me (for now) . . . I did an experiment this winter and haven't come back to it until now (seemed like a good time) to check the results.

I took one of my newish Opinels (this #9) and put drops of the thinnest machine oil on it that I had. I only put the oil, in drops, right on the end grain of the handle near the pivot. This is were a single drop of water could seize the knife up so bad I could not open it or if it were open I could not close it. (whapping the end of the handle be dambed).

So I put drops of this oil on the end grain, spread it around and left the knife with that end upper most under this lamp to keep it warm and flowing. I probably did this ten times over the course of the winter. (there is just no way I am going to soak the entire handle and have oil in the slot and . . . no . . . .

Results ?
I put water on the end, left it a couple minutes and tried opening the knife. Opened and closed just fine. I applied water at least two more times and left the knife for a while to soak in and I still had no problem operating the knife. Granted it was the tiniest bit more stiff but was totally doable.

I just tried it after a couple days and the water had presumably dried and effected the pivot all that it was going to do (rust, what not). The blade was a little stuck on the first try but once it came loose it pivoted very easily again.

The easiest solution is the hardest to arrive at.
Does anyone have an easier one ?
So from this I am thinking, as long as one isn't submerging the knife and totally soaking it, this simple solution may be the easiest. Note I had many times before this put a fair amount of oil on the pivot which didn't help much at all. One has to get it to soak into the end of the knife and displace the air there so that water can not pass into the cells. Apparently oil will not swell the knife like water will once the knife snorks it up.

Pictures or it didn't happen right :
PS: this knife is like brand new; I only put patina on it and carried it a couple of times.
I hadn't put any more oil on it in months before I tried this test.

This is water and yes I got water down into the pivot as well as on the end. I stuck the end of the knife under the running facet and then added these drops on the end for the photo.
If the oil had never been put in there at all the water would not have stood on the end like this but would have immediately soaked into the end grain of the knife.
IMG_5395.jpg

She opens . . .
IMG_5396.jpg

She closes . . .
. . . she crawls on her belly like a reptile . . .
IMG_5397.jpg

What oil did I use? My Starrett Instrument Oil. Sacrilegious but it is super thin and could get in there if anything could. There is a chance WD-40 would do as well anyone want to give a go and let us know ?
IMG_4555.jpg
 
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Half isn't a price point though. Full is.
Half or full I would rather not be caught with junk falling out and my knife stuck closed. Even if that singular experience could be had for free.
That's just me. YMMV
 
Half or full I would rather not be caught with junk falling out and my knife stuck closed. Even if that singular experience could be had for free.
That's just me. YMMV
I edc a scarab and an some opinel iteration on a belt clip for food so it for sure won't fall out of anything. Empty mag pouch in your gun holster is a great place also if you want to free up some pocket space=)
 
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