[S]Ya'll[/S] Y'all knives too thick

Gavin S. said:
ZDP-189 Stretch reground by Big Chris. It is downright anorexic.

xlarge.jpg
Click to expand...
Well Sir , that blade will CUT :thumbsup:
 
I've heard of the steel you speak of but had no experience with it. Where do you get the 1.2519 steel?

Natlek said:
I like this 1.2519 steel ... get scary sharp .This one I make for my brother 2.2mm thick at the spine :thumbsup:
pTxOU6h.jpg
Click to expand...
 
So far my favorite is that Big Chris reground Stretch. And I'm not a fan of Spyderco really at all.

I have one of these things that my uncle bought me. I keep it around for the fact that he got it for me.

Both blades are real thin, but the straight razor is down right svelte. Wish it was of better steel.

Smith--Wesson-Razor-Two-Blade-Pocket-Knife.jpg
 
Dopic1 said:
Nice, I made mine in Hitachi Blue Steel 2mm thick at the spine and it will cut. :)
Click to expand...

I have a nice sheet of that 1/8" thick Hitachi Blue #2 steel that Aldo smuggled into the U.S., sent to me by a customer as a tip. One of these days it will get turned into some thin knives, maybe san mai.
 
This one is pretty "slicey":

image.jpg


So is the one on the right here:

image.jpg


This thing is THIN. It flexes like crazy cutting stuff, but doesn't break:

image.jpg


Thin cuts better, but thicker blades have their uses too. If my Battle Mistress was 1/8" at the spine I wouldn't go "thunking" it into many trees, but it would cut like a mofo!
 
Mecha said:
I have a nice sheet of that 1/8" thick Hitachi Blue #2 steel that Aldo smuggled into the U.S., sent to me by a customer as a tip. One of these days it will get turned into some thin knives, maybe san mai.
Click to expand...
I got 2 pieces from Aldo a while back, its a bitch to HT but if get it right it will freaking cut like a boss! I have two Guyto's ground that I need to HT, and a bunch of rejects that will be San Mai projects in the future.
 
AntDog said:
This thing is THIN. It flexes like crazy cutting stuff, but doesn't break:

image.jpg
Click to expand...

Pretty sure that's an industrial rubber-cutting knife!

I think a lot of folks don't realize how easily dulled a blade of ANY thickness is when handled clumsily, don't know just how resilient steel really is, and are unsure of how to repair damage if they end up with any, and that makes them nervous.

My most used knife is a scrappy li'l $4 Italian slipjoint in 420J2-equivalent (W 1.4028) at 52 RC that I reground to a full height hollow grind so thin I can roll my thumbnail over the edge and have it deform under the pressure. Despite having been taken so thin it's a surprisingly capable knife, and with intelligent use it's unlikely to be damaged. And if it is, it was $4 and I have others I could regrind as backups.

Having the tool literacy to know the limits of what something can handle is part of proficiency. Usually as efficiency of a tool, resiliency decreases. The better you know the bounds of what the tool can handle, the less "insurance resiliency" you need built into the tool, which lowers its efficiency. Do more with less. An old period publication talking about axe geometry said it quite nicely: "edges should be kept as thin as is consistent with requisite strength." Not too much, not too little. Juuuuuuuust right. :)
 
I recall someone mentioned here that manufacturers produce thick knives because of warranty concern, as thin knives would be more easily damaged, which makes sense.

What matters the most when it comes to slicing ability is the thickness behind the edge. Many would think a Spyderco PM2 can easily outslice a Benchmade griptilian, which actually may not be true. BM grip seems thinner behind the edge than PM2and it does slice very well.

I do agree it depends on the tasks. Kitchen veggie knives or mail openers absolutely need to be very thin. Knives that are frequently used to cut zip ties, may not be so.
 
sharp_edge said:
I recall someone mentioned here that manufacturers produce thick knives because of warranty concern, as thin knives would be more easily damaged, which makes sense.

What matters the most when it comes to slicing ability is the thickness behind the edge. Many would think a Spyderco PM2 can easily outslice a Benchmade griptilian, which actually may not be true. BM grip seems thinner behind the edge than PM2and it does slice very well.

I do agree it depends on the tasks. Kitchen veggie knives or mail openers absolutely need to be very thin. Knives that are frequently used to cut zip ties, may not be so.
Click to expand...

That right there is one of the main reasons y'all knives too thick. It's not just the bevel angle, it's the obtuse secondary edge bevel. The closer to a zero grind, the better, I say! :mad:
 
Mecha Mecha -- I think you'll like a model I'll have coming out soon. It's a tough little 3" bladed utility fixed blade with a THIN grind. Made to be sturdy enough for hard use by folks who know how to walk the line of what a tool's able to reasonably handle while retaining an efficient cutting geometry.
 
I just picked up a Mora 510. Thinnest Mora out there, I think. Does great around the farm. The SAK Trekker does well, too. And any of my Opinels is a robust user. Thin may not always be called for, but it does the job for me.

Even a Buck 110 is not terribly thick. Put it in lightweight frame and it's an easily carried slicing machine.

Zieg
 
Two of the folders in this thread grabbed me. Those were the Stretch reground by Big Chris, and the Case XX clasp knife. Both very nice, both very thin. That Western fixed blade made in Boulder, Colorado intrigues me. Mid 20th century? I used to live near Boulder.
 
Bill1170 said:
That Western fixed blade made in Boulder, Colorado intrigues me. Mid 20th century? I used to live near Boulder.
Click to expand...

From what I understand the Western L77 was just made during WWII and again during Korea. I have a special place in my heart for them because they're what I learned to process wild game and fish with as a kid. Still like it better for that job than most others.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top