SAK Mods! Post your pics, questions and ideas

I always find it educating and entertaining to read about builds and trix, even crazy ones :) I just found this one a bit hard to appreciate, since I would need extra tools to attach this to the SAK... Part of the charm with the SAK´s (for me) is that it should be "the multi-tool". For this to be useful I would first need a SAK with the modified opener, a sawblade, separate screwdriver, and a bag with the screws and mounting plates. That´s a lot of extra stuff to carry. If you would just build a handle for the sawblade instead, you would just need that and your SAK (without the modified opener). I do not have access to a full workshop with tools, but if I did, and it was my build idea, I would make the stabilizing like a box with open ends and a sliding lid :)
Building a separate handle is a fine idea, but it's not a SAK mod. I know I'm not good at making things look beautiful and polished like you do, but I think I am pretty good at trying different things and finding creative solutions to stuff that other people might not think of. I do find it interesting that when I did come up with a simple solution to address your criticism, you simply found more things to criticize. This makes me think that I could probably never do anything to make you happy.

I find that whenever you try something different, there's always going to at least be one or 2 naysayers popping up to tell you exactly how and why it's bad. Everyone has an opinion and everyone has a preference. I respect your individuality and your preferences, but they're for you and not me. I won't argue with you, I will simply encourage you to take what I did and try to make it better if you can, and that goes for anyone else too. Try to come up with your own solutions and/or improve on existing things that have been put forward by others. For example, another poster has said they are now contemplating trying to get a 3D printer so that they can create their own design for a clamp style jigsaw adapter. That's the kind of thing I like to see: people coming up with their own ideas and sharing them freely. I hope they succeed and I hope that I can eventually get my hands on a few of their 3D printed jigsaw adapters.

👍
 
Building a separate handle is a fine idea, but it's not a SAK mod. I know I'm not good at making things look beautiful and polished like you do, but I think I am pretty good at trying different things and finding creative solutions to stuff that other people might not think of. I do find it interesting that when I did come up with a simple solution to address your criticism, you simply found more things to criticize. This makes me think that I could probably never do anything to make you happy.

I find that whenever you try something different, there's always going to at least be one or 2 naysayers popping up to tell you exactly how and why it's bad. Everyone has an opinion and everyone has a preference. I respect your individuality and your preferences, but they're for you and not me. I won't argue with you, I will simply encourage you to take what I did and try to make it better if you can, and that goes for anyone else too. Try to come up with your own solutions and/or improve on existing things that have been put forward by others. For example, another poster has said they are now contemplating trying to get a 3D printer so that they can create their own design for a clamp style jigsaw adapter. That's the kind of thing I like to see: people coming up with their own ideas and sharing them freely. I hope they succeed and I hope that I can eventually get my hands on a few of their 3D printed jigsaw adapters.

👍
No! Guy, don´t take what I said as criticism. I love how creative you are (and everything does not have to be beautiful and polished) :) I just did not find this specific mod to be that useful in my book. I mean, there is a pretty good sawblade for the SAK already (not in a two layer with all tools of course). Just keep em coming and try to read my posts for what they are ;)
 
No! Guy, don´t take what I said as criticism

But that's exactly what it is, and it's totally fine. Don't back away from it now.

I welcome criticism especially when it is constructive. You can usually tell the difference by whether or not there are any suggestions offered to make something better. Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think you offered any suggestions at all on how to improve upon what I did. And that's okay, because I still was able to use your comments to do something useful. You helped me by motivating me to address an issue that some people might have, and the solution that I came up with actually turned out to be a very simple one. That's incredibly valuable to me. I would not have gone to the extra effort to do that if you hadn't said something about it. Where it goes south for me is the lack of change on your part to acknowledge that I had successfully managed to address one of your issues. Instead you simply doubled down and went further. Maybe that's my fault for caring too much, but to me it's an indication that I shouldn't bother trying.

I mean, there is a pretty good sawblade for the SAK already (not in a two layer with all tools of course).

You know, that is almost the exact same thing somebody said when I posted the thread about how to use the parcel hook to hold a jigsaw blade. Next thing you know, people are posting videos about the idea on youtube while getting loads of views and positive comments for it. The point is that you can't always take other people's negative opinions too seriously, and to me what happened in that instance was the best proof of that point that anyone could possibly ask for.

To be 100% clear: I do welcome criticism... up to a point. I especially welcome criticism when it is put forward in a constructive way. Even when it isn't, it can still often be useful anyway. Thank you very much for what you initially said. You can see exactly how it helped by looking at the photos that I posted in response to you.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. 👍

edit: I had to remove some things in this post which relate to something which is probably better left alone.
 
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Yes, look at post #697 above to see more Chapman bits.
My man! I'm a big Chapman fan.
All 8 sizes of Phillips screwdriver bits will fit in a clam shell coin purse. In this photo the #0000 bit is missing, and the #1 bit is duplicated.View attachment 2109490
Sonovagun!
Nice :) Made right here in my home state.
My grandpa had a set, my dad had a set, and now I have a bunch of sets.

Where's the mini ratchet love?!
 
My man! I'm a big Chapman fan.

Sonovagun!
Nice :) Made right here in my home state.
My grandpa had a set, my dad had a set, and now I have a bunch of sets.

Where's the mini ratchet love?!
None of the lovable ratchets fit in the clam shell coin purse, and they are heavy compared to the ignition wrench.View attachment 2110372
 
Some recent Mod builds:
vbLAiVh.jpg


3m5VZ3p.jpg


IVKQ3f1.jpg


EsfLfNW.jpg
 
2-0-a.jpg

This 2 layer Victorinox Spartan has not been modified in any way.

2-0-b.jpg

Still not modified. No modifications were made at all to the can opener.

2-0-c.jpg

The small wrench was easily created with a hacksaw. The 2d phillips driver was purchased online. These are for tightening the screws and nuts for the jigsaw blade holder.

2-0-d.jpg

The parts for the jigsaw blade holder can all fit inside a tiny bag. The screwdriver and the wrench can go in the bag too, or you can carry them on a key ring. Whatever you prefer.

2-0-e.jpg

This shows the screw layout for the jigsaw holder. If you look closely, then you might think that the whole jigsaw holder assembly would slide backwards and forwards on the can opener while sawing, but it doesn't. Once you tighten down the bolts, it's all very secure. There's no movement. If you still want to alter the design anyway, then there are at least 2 ways to do it that I can think of which would make forwards/backwards sliding basically impossible. I really don't think it's necessary though. It already works fine as it is.



I still think that 3D printing is going to be the best way to make a jigsaw blade holder for a swiss army knife. I have already come up with a design that should be very effective, but unfortunately I don't have access to a 3D printer for testing and refining that design.
 
I wonder if there is an online 3D printing service, where you send them the design files and they print it, and send you the finished item. Might be expensive though for small quantities.
 
I wonder if there is an online 3D printing service, where you send them the design files and they print it, and send you the finished item. Might be expensive though for small quantities.
I know of one or two that will print your model(s) and ship to you. The problem is that to test and refine would require a lot of prints. You have to print, test, edit, repeat. Again and again. Each time you do this it costs money and you need to wait for them to ship to you. I don't think it's going to be very practical because nailing down the exact dimensions might take a lot of prints to fully work out. It's just better to have a printer of your own so that you can rapidly test a series of minor tweaks.

I'm not sure about the terms of use for those services either. They might claim partial rights or ownership to your work for all I know. I haven't looked into it.

On the plus side, once you do finally have a design ready then you can use a print service to get it 3D printed out of metal if you want. It's a lot more expensive but it's still a pretty neat option to have.
 
I know of one or two that will print your model(s) and ship to you. The problem is that to test and refine would require a lot of prints. You have to print, test, edit, repeat. Again and again. Each time you do this it costs money and you need to wait for them to ship to you. I don't think it's going to be very practical because nailing down the exact dimensions might take a lot of prints to fully work out. It's just better to have a printer of your own so that you can rapidly test a series of minor tweaks.

I'm not sure about the terms of use for those services either. They might claim partial rights or ownership to your work for all I know. I haven't looked into it.

On the plus side, once you do finally have a design ready then you can use a print service to get it 3D printed out of metal if you want. It's a lot more expensive but it's still a pretty neat option to have.
I have no experience from 3D printers, but from what I have heard you work witch a CAD program. So if you just draw everything to exact measurements, it should not need that many trials and errors?
 
I have no experience from 3D printers, but from what I have heard you work witch a CAD program. So if you just draw everything to exact measurements, it should not need that many trials and errors?
I've never gone through the process, but from what I understand, it doesn't always work out that way. For instance, sometimes the model needs to be adjusted so that the printer can manage to print it correctly with consistently reliable results. You are after all dealing with liquid hot molten plastic. You might not even encounter the issue without repeated prints demonstrating that there is a problem in the first place. Or you might think you have the exact dimensions correct but it's maybe off by just a little bit and it may take several prints to get it exactly right. Then let's say you get it all nailed down but you end up discovering that you need to make a change to the design, and that could put you all the way back to square one in terms of re-tweaking the dimensions and making sure that it prints reliably the same way each time without significant defects happening during the printing process.

Having never done this myself, I can't really speak much more about it. It would be helpful to hear from someone with some actual experience in making 3D printed stuff.
 
I have some experience with 3D printing. You pretty much nailed the major issues. Complex parts with relatively tight tolerances often require an iterative process to print something functional.
 
Complex parts with relatively tight tolerances often require an iterative process to print something functional.
On the bright side I started out with a 3 piece design and I think I've got it worked out to where it will work with just 2 pieces. So I don't think it's going to be too complicated, but the tolerances would probably need to be pretty close around the shank at the very least (to avoid wiggle as much as possible). But I think there is less of a concern about everything else. I think it should end up being pretty straightforwardly simple. 🤞 That is of course assuming that I ever get the chance to actually make the thing.
 
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