How To Slipjoint tutorials and advice

Randy3000 said:
For what it's worth, I experimented for a couple hours yesterday trying to figure out why my drill press moves and was giving me crappy nicks. I identified 5 variables

1) tighten chuck using all 3 holes
2) adjusting the motor speed (5 stepped pulley system, use lowest speed for drilling and highest speed for grinding nicks)
3) adjusting the table
4) bit slipping in chuck
5) blade slipping in vise jig

By changing one at a time, using witness marks and the dial indicator a few times, I discovered the issue! When I move the table up or down, and then change to high speed pulley for grinding, the table actually slides down a tad from the vibration. The solution is to run it for a minute or more before cutting the nick. After it settles down and is stable, then I can adjust the blade in the vise and go to cutting. I repeated this experiment 5 times, taking everything apart and moving things around, and it was a reliable system.
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Ten seconds Randy , take me ten second to adjust height and to cut this nail nick......................:) You can not make mistake even if you want that :D
When I have more free time I will cut another one just as @Ken H show as.I will joint several cutting disk to get thickness
,shape them with diamond and cut that MF ........easy !
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I like that piston rod holding everything in line - good method you've got there. with a stone (or disk) shaped it will cut the half moon type nailnick just fine. Well done.
 
Ken H> said:
I like that piston rod holding everything in line - good method you've got there. with a stone (or disk) shaped it will cut the half moon type nailnick just fine. Well done.
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You know how precise they are made ;) When we make some tool ALL is about precise fabricating parts so at the and we can get good result . That s why I use some finished parts whenever I can .Parts which anyway would be no easy to fabricate or they will cost fortune :D I have no right tap to make thread on that stainless part for dremel so we make it on lathe and then I weld that together .But I know how to weld it and everything come perfect at the end .I just cut one side of this bronze mold for gard ,then just one second on grinder and now it is perfectly parallel so I can use it .........
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You can pick up a Dremel Router Table for about $30 from Amazon
 
Drew Riley said:
Glad you found my tutorial helpful. There's a few things I probably could have presented better, and one of these days I would like to do another tutorial with some real editing and better angles. I just don't have the equipment just now.

At any rate, I think this thread is a good idea. I know there are probably quite a few more resources available now than when I first started learning to make slipjoints. It's good to see different perspectives and methods and find what works best for each maker.
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I made a slipjoint following your videos and it worked flawless.
 
ashwinearl said:
Thank you! Making a slipjoint has been my white whale for many years. It is only fitting that my first ended up white.

Alternative ivory (deliberately cracked..not.. to look like real ivory), red G10 liner, copper pins, 52100 carbon steel, acid etched/stone tumbled.

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Quote Reply
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Good for you. If there were any parts of the tutorial that didnt make sense or if you have any ideas to improve it let me know.
 
ashwinearl said:
Thank you! Making a slipjoint has been my white whale for many years. It is only fitting that my first ended up white.

Alternative ivory (deliberately cracked..not.. to look like real ivory), red G10 liner, copper pins, 52100 carbon steel, acid etched/stone tumbled.

...
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Looks like 3/32" thick blade. How does it cut? I usually knock 0.010" off either side of my blades to get about a 0.075" thickness and then do a full flat grind. I think the thinner blade makes it cut better. I cut up a pile of amazon boxes this Christmas season to fit in the recycling bin with one such slipjoint and it handled like a boxcutter.
 
Stang Bladeworks said:
Good for you. If there were any parts of the tutorial that didnt make sense or if you have any ideas to improve it let me know.
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Excellent tutorial, I look forward to trying it out soon. I see the DAW file is no longer available, says it's in your bin. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Only thing I picked up on was that you didn't mention the use of shims which I assume is because you're using synthetic scales so it's not needed?
 
Ray van Vuuren said:
Excellent tutorial, I look forward to trying it out soon. I see the DAW file is no longer available, says it's in your bin. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Only thing I picked up on was that you didn't mention the use of shims which I assume is because you're using synthetic scales so it's not needed?
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Thanks for reading. I am not sure why the link isn't working but if you want I can email you the files, just pm me your email address. As for the shims you are right. My tutorial is aimed at beginners and I think using synthetic materials is the easiest way to start. I have never used any natural materials personally (on slipjoints) so I can't offer any advice in regards to working with them.
 
Ray van Vuuren said:
Excellent tutorial, I look forward to trying it out soon. I see the DAW file is no longer available, says it's in your bin. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Only thing I picked up on was that you didn't mention the use of shims which I assume is because you're using synthetic scales so it's not needed?
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email sent. I checked the link and it looks like the files are there. If anyone else has trouble with the files please let me know.
 
I'm in the process of building my first two slipies with your plans and instructions, only thing is I deviated a little by adding SS liners and bronze bolsters. Should get the blades and springs back from surface grinding tomorrow then the build can continue. One will be ebony and the other warthog ivory. Hope all works out well but will post a photo or two when I'm done. Thank you for your instructions and help.
 
Ray van Vuuren said:
I'm in the process of building my first two slipies with your plans and instructions, only thing is I deviated a little by adding SS liners and bronze bolsters. Should get the blades and springs back from surface grinding tomorrow then the build can continue. One will be ebony and the other warthog ivory. Hope all works out well but will post a photo or two when I'm done. Thank you for your instructions and help.
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No problem, can't wait to see them.
 
kc custom said:
If and when you really want to wreck your head making slipjoints take up making
multi blades. Without the book by Terry Davis, and Gene Shadley I seriously doubt
I'd be making slipjoints today let alone paying my bills with it for the last 10 years.
Ken.
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It's out of print and used copies are high priced on Amazon and used book sellers because of that.

If you can find it in a local used book store that doesn't check online prices *good luck* get it cheap.
I think I paid hundreds because there was only one copy available at the time.
 
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