Spyderco Bushcraft, thoughts?

I just checked this knife out a bit. I don't see how they justify that price for a factory-made knife. There are knife makers who will forge you an O1 bushcrafter, put the final edge on by hand, and make you a custom leather sheath for less than that.

No way is it worth it unless it's also been sprinkled with fairy dust and unicorn tears, and I think Spyderco stopped doing that a few years ago.
 
Just checked in cause I have a bushcraft blade blank I've played with a bit. I agree that the price is too high for a O1 blade, but in S90V that would be a great knife at that price. I have made about fourty knives from S90V and have grown to love that steel and its edge holding. 3V would be an improvement as well. I cant speak about the handle ergo's but a lot of guys really seem to like it.
 
I just checked this knife out a bit. I don't see how they justify that price for a factory-made knife. There are knife makers who will forge you an O1 bushcrafter, put the final edge on by hand, and make you a custom leather sheath for less than that.
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Just checked in cause I have a bushcraft blade blank I've played with a bit. I agree that the price is too high for a O1 blade
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I have several of those and none of them comes close to the Spyderco in finish and quality of grinds, ergonomics, etc. Sure, the steel is inexpensive compared to many newer, more popular powder steels but saying a knife should not exceed X dollars because it's XY steel is not the way I decide how good a knife is at it's intended job. Unless you have used a knife it's difficult to judge it's value. Judging a blade blank alone for sure doesn't give you any idea what the finished ergonomics and performance are like.
 
Judging value without owning or trying the knife for it's intended function? :rolleyes:

In a true Bushcraft knife, the handle shape is more than half of the requirement for the knife. Spending a month in the "bush" with nothing but your knife and firestarter, as these guys do (Bushcraft UK) is far more involved than sitting at your computer and doing a "virtual" judgement of a knife you've not used at all, much less an outdoor test seems strange to me. Trying to reduce the value of a product down to the materials is irrational at best. Kind of like a "virtual" judgement of food. Hard to know the taste.

Certainly how good the product is should carry weight in terms of value. This was not an easy piece to bring to market. Difficult in a design where a thou makes a difference. Difficult in manufactruring where the same close tolerances are required for repeatability, expensive to make so expensvie to buy. Custom quality, IMO, at least as good as any custom maker's Bushcraft model!

I assure you we're not making big margins on this model.

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Neo,

We have from the beginning considered a full flat powdered metal to mate to Chris' great handle. Our thoughts were S90V. Why would you prefer 3V?

sal
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S90V is a great steel with a focus on edge holding.
It would be great for a full flat blade that would mostly be used for jobs with a lot of slicing.
S90V is excellent for the south fork or for a sprint run of the moran.
I use my moran for skinning, S90V would be a great upgrade.

A knife like the bushcraft or even the full flat version (which would have greater area of applications) does need a blade with more focus on toughness.
The wear resistance of 3V is still greater than D2 or 154CM.
For a working knife a rolled edge is better than a chipped edge.
Fixed blades see a lot more abuse than folders.
Most materials that are cut in the outdoors don't are very abrasive.

For an all round outdoor fixed knife I would choose 3V
For S90V I would choose a knife with a thin full flat blade for excellent slicing.
 
I agree the handle shape is more than half the requirement of the knife.
I got a Bushcraft from Fiddleback in A2 and it has a comparable handle shape.
That's why I want this one in 3V, if I didn't care I wouldn't post any comment :)
 
The handle ergos made this knife for me. The excellent F&F, was icing on the cake.

This is definitely the most comfortable FB that I own.

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I have the g10 version and love it. I hate to say it but i prefer this blade over some of my custom bushcrafters. The first time i used it i took it out camping and carved 2 spoons with it and i was hooked. Hey Sal bring on the puukko! think i need one of those now:rolleyes::D
 
Magnaminous_G said:
I just checked this knife out a bit. I don't see how they justify that price for a factory-made knife. There are knife makers who will forge you an O1 bushcrafter, put the final edge on by hand, and make you a custom leather sheath for less than that.

No way is it worth it unless it's also been sprinkled with fairy dust and unicorn tears, and I think Spyderco stopped doing that a few years ago.
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I dont own one of these but probably will. I can see how getting the handle just right is important. For sake of argument, you have knife A and knife B that are very similar. If knife A is hand made, and knife B is mass produced, and both about the same quality, is there really a difference? My point being that since this knife is mass produced, it probably has the ability (as long as quality and F&F are upheld) to be a better knife than a custom of the same price. The process of making a knife from a block of steel is involved and therefore expensive, especially as a one-off. Task any maker, and they could make a knife as well as a production, but not as cheaply, or as cheaply but probably not as well.
 
The Spyderco Bushcraft is my go to knife for hard cutting chores (involving wood). The handle and also the blade grind are first rate. I have other bushcraft blades in O1 that don't cut nearly as well. Value is what you are willing to pay for something. I think the Spyderco is a good value because it works extremely well for its intended purpose. A custom that worked as well for even less money would arguably be a better value, but most of the customs I have seen are NOT cheaper. Anyway, I like it and have no regrets. If Sal brings out another version in S90V or 3V, I'll probably buy that too. One of the values of Spyderco knives is a high probability it will be a good knife.
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Neo,

We have from the beginning considered a full flat powdered metal to mate to Chris' great handle. Our thoughts were S90V. Why would you prefer 3V?

sal
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Hi Sal -

I love all of your knives, and so do my kids - They are adults now. Anyway, if you make this in S90V, with a FFG, I will buy 2 for me, and 1 for each of my kids, and my wife. Please do it! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::)

Thanks,

Dave
 
Sal -
Of all the steels that I have used, O1 seems to rust faster than any other carbon steel. At least for me. I must have acid sweat in my hands :), and I do live in a high humidity area. So please issue this great knife in a less rust prone steel. Flat or scandi grind - either way is great. If you build it, the customers will come!
Thanks,
Dave
 
I would like to see the bushcraft knife FFG in cpm 3v.For a fixed blade, 3v would be more fitting.
If s90v was the choice, maybe a full flat ''zero" grind would be interesting,or a full height convex
apple seed grind.......just something different is always good..
 
DavidZ said:
Sal -
Of all the steels that I have used, O1 seems to rust faster than any other carbon steel. At least for me. I must have acid sweat in my hands :), and I do live in a high humidity area. So please issue this great knife in a less rust prone steel. Flat or scandi grind - either way is great. If you build it, the customers will come!
Thanks, Dave
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Hi David,

01 was the preferred steel for Bushcrafters. Since this model was designed by Bushcrafters for Bushcrafters, we felt we should follow the proper path. Because the handle was so etraordinarily comfortable to use for long periods of time, I felt the handle could be also used for other outdoor solutions. My preference would have been S90V as an optimal compromise. Also, now we have Carpenter's version. Those two steels in a FFG will offer exceptional cutting power, edge retention and still provide corrosion resistance. More difficult to sharpen in the field.

Hi Gine,

To go with something like 3V, we gain in toughness, but lose the corrosion resistance. Not sure one needs such toughness on a 5" blade?

sal
 
Personally I think the blade and handle shape of the knife is everthing you could ask for in a Bush knife. O1 is a great all around steel, and I like is for its ability to hold an edge AND REGAIN an edge easily, along with moderate "toughness". If the steel was change to 3V or some other "Super Steel":rolleyes: expect to pay even more out the ass for it. Not to mention maintaining a "supersteel" edge in the field is a major PAIN IN THE ASS. Just because a knife looks simple does not mean it was simple(or cheap) to produce.
I love the Bushcraft, with the exception of the sheath. I HATE the sheath(sorry Sal):foot:. With kydex around, I can't justify a leather(pouch style of all styles:barf:) on a knife that will be carried on very long excursions through the wilderness. Leather holds water, weighs more and deteriorates much, much faster than kydex. Plus, I would think kydex is cheaper to machine(could be wrong). I would prefer a .06 -.08 black kydex, with a firesteel holder.
G10 is an excellent choice for a handle, I'd prefer either black, green, tan canvas micarta rough sanded w/ no finish for its grippyness.

Side Note: I do not now and never will understand, in the day of readily available materials like G10, Micarta, and Kydex why people will choose to use less superior materials like wood, and leather on a blade meant to be carried and used in outdoor enviroments. Also when I want a user knife for the outdoors, on the list of important features, corrosion resistance is on the bottom of the list for me.
 
hands down the bushcraft's handle ergonomics has no equal. i've used mine hard and find that o1 is plenty tough enough. no need for super steels that will only drive up the price un-necessarily...this thread needs more pics :)

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JV3 said:
hands down the bushcraft's handle ergonomics has no equal. i've used mine hard and find that o1 is plenty tough enough. no need for super steels that will only drive up the price un-necessarily...this thread needs more pics :)

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Awesome Pics, great system. How do you like the ESEE firesteel, I wondered about it, but cant come to grips with the $30 price.
 
3V isn't stainless but doesn't have such an oxidation level like O1, L6 or 52100.
Even A2 takes a patina quicker than 3V does.
If one takes minimal care corrosion isn't an issue.
I haven't heard any complains about corrosion on Fehrman knives.

Maintaining an edge on 3V isn't more difficult than on S30V or 145cm, S90V is a whole different animal.
I don't know the exact price of steel but I believe CPM3V is much cheaper than CPMS90V, more like S30V.
3V holds an edge well, the outstanding toughness is welcome.
Why does Busse sell so well. Because people want knives that have higher tolerances than mean-stream knives
First Bark River was hesitating to make knives in 3V, now they plan 3V versions on a regular base.

I know the pure fundamental Bushcrafters in Europe prefer O1, but they also prefer wooden handles and even handmade knives.
Like I said before bushcrafting is popular in Europe, but it's a small world with a lot of great custom makers that provide knives in O1 and wooden handle.
I'm aware the Spyderco is worth the price, but in Europe the prices are real steep.
USA prices are reasonable, but importing brings custom costs and believe me I got my share over the years.

These hardcore bushcrafters don't immediately connect Spyderco with bushcrafting, it's more an image thing.
I believe going high tech with 3V and polished G10 will attract knife nuts and steel junkies over the world and will certainly be more appreciated in the States.
This audience is also prepared to pay more for a knife.

Like you have formulated so nicely:

Trying to reduce the value of a product down to the materials is irrational at best. Kind of like a "virtual" judgement of food. Hard to know the taste

It's all true, but sadly many would behave like that if they are deciding on a purchase.
 
Dave Behrens said:
Side Note: I do not now and never will understand, in the day of readily available materials like G10, Micarta, and Kydex why people will choose to use less superior materials like wood, and leather on a blade meant to be carried and used in outdoor enviroments. Also when I want a user knife for the outdoors, on the list of important features, corrosion resistance is on the bottom of the list for me.
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For bushcrafting it's simple: it's the philosophy

Going back to the roots, going into nature with the bare minimum on equipment.
A knife and a firesteel :)
Survival based on skills

In this philosophy a traditional knife in toolsteel, wooden handle and leather sheath is preferred over high tech industrial made materials
 
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