SR-3V (SR-3VooDoo)!!!!!

As was previously mentioned a return of the original Ratmandu would be great.
I'd love to try one out in SR3V. It's the Busse and Kin knife I have most of between different variants etc and I think it's the knife that should always be on the site.
It was my gateway into Busse's.
I'd love some terotuf scales and maybe an option like a liner etc.
Looking forward to seeing what comes out of the Swamp and what you do with 3V and maybe Magnacut also. Best of luck going forward.
 
As was previously mentioned a return of the original Ratmandu would be great.
I'd love to try one out in SR3V. It's the Busse and Kin knife I have most of between different variants etc and I think it's the knife that should always be on the site.
It was my gateway into Busse's.
I'd love some terotuf scales and maybe an option like a liner etc.
Looking forward to seeing what comes out of the Swamp and what you do with 3V and maybe Magnacut also. Best of luck going forward.




I’m hoping they do the Ratmandu in Magnacut.
 
3V notorious for being more tedious to sharpen, is it possible to simplify the edge geometry such as a Wharncliffe with jimping?
 
3V notorious for being more tedious to sharpen, is it possible to simplify the edge geometry such as a Wharncliffe with jimping?

That is not really edge geometry but rather blade shape. The difficulty of sharpening with 3V is related to the additional hard carbides in the steel which means wearing the edge bevels down with abrasives is much slower and dulls the abrasive much quicker. If your abrasives blunt and smooth then they stop cutting the steel and start burnishing. The question would be what are you using to sharpen? With appropriate sharpening stones the type of steel matter less but the real issue is sharpening in the field typically doesn't allow for use of full size benchstones but usually much less than ideal tools. This is my main concern. If it's something that will stay in the home, then 3V @ 60-62 makes great sense to me if it's tough.
 
3V notorious for being more tedious to sharpen, is it possible to simplify the edge geometry such as a Wharncliffe with jimping?
I haven't noticed any real difference or difficulty sharpening 3V blades compared to Infi or SR-101.
 
What gravel face said! Bring the original line up back in 3v!!!!

But honestly I’m so happy with the originals it would be hard to justify it. Lol. That’s the problem with nailing it the first try I guess.
 
3V notorious for being more tedious to sharpen, is it possible to simplify the edge geometry such as a Wharncliffe with jimping?
You must be doing someting wrong mate if you're having issues with sharpening 3V...
Have you ever heard of dimond sharpening 'stones'?
 
If there is, I'm not noticing it on the Wicked Edge.

That is not entirely surprising if that sharpener uses diamond plates. The real issue with 3V and other high carbide steels is they will readily glaze over most conventional abrasives (aluminum oxide, silicon carbide) unless they are quite friable or have a weak bonding strength so as to release the worn abrasive and expose fresh sharp abrasives. Now, I'd wager that if you were in fact counting strokes in a methodical way to eliminate factors that could also increase the sharpening strokes then you'd still probably see the 3V take significantly more.

The real issue with using diamond sharpening 'stones' is that they are poorly suited to grinding/shaping the edge prior to apexing the knife. They will almost certainly cause overgrinding and quite often, heavy burr formation unless the sharpener is quite skilled at avoiding this with coarser grits. Of course you could just use finer stones but it's slower. The solution many use for this is to just use finer and finer grits in a progression, which is also time consuming and can waste steel at the edge.

The other issue is that I can generally take an extremely dull knife in a simple low-carbide steel on a cheap coarse stone between 100-200 grit and remove all the damage and thin the edge enough to take a micro bevel in just a couple minutes without worry of causing myself issues when I go to apex the edge. Whenever you start going higher carbide, the tendency is to need to reshape the edge on a much finer stone or use it as an intermediate prior to micro beveling for sharpness.

I would suggest anybody looking at sharpening 3V or similar class steels by hand with benchstones look at the Sigma Power Select II stones, specifically the 240-1000-3000 grits. I'm not sure about the 400 or 1200 as being suitable and they are very hard to find typically but they are made differently and may not work as well. They are expensive but they wear very slowly relative to how quickly they sharpen and they are very durable, whereas many waterstones are not and are used quickly.

 
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Looking forward to it!! Nothing too thick pls. Thin and slicey is the name of my game!
Thin and no choil in a medium sized knife - OH YEAH!!!! Like an AD6 or 7 with a thin blade and a drop or clip point and no choil. That would be perfect, for me at least. I know there are a lot of choil lovers out there, but there are so many options with choils. Can't we, non choil folks, have a turn please?
 
Nathan has achieved some great results with 3V, so it will be interesting to see what the Swamp develops, assuming VooDoo is not Nathan or one of his people. ;)

For all those wondering, the first half of the above sentence is correct, the second half- not even close.
Soooo.... second half says "assuming VooDoo is NOT Nathan or one of his people." Since that isn't even close to correct... does that mean VooDoo IS Nathan... or one of his people?

I haven't noticed any real difference or difficulty sharpening 3V blades compared to Infi or SR-101.

You must be doing someting wrong mate if you're having issues with sharpening 3V...
Have you ever heard of dimond sharpening 'stones'?

Thats not possible... there's a huge difference.
Hmmmm.... well... I guess I haven't done any major re-beveling of any 3V yet, and perhaps 3V IS worse than M390 or 20CV. But I've never had any problem re-beveling M390, 20CV, SR101, or INFI on regular coarse stones. Like you get at the hardware store. I mean, I guess maybe I DO have to knock the dust off the stones more often... maybe. But not a big problem. But one re-beveled, everything works with a ceramic stone. I never use diamond anymore.
 
Back in 2015 you said you have done a lot of in house testing on 3v and is not comparable to INFI not even close. More comparable to SR-101 but you give the nod to 101 as being superior in lateral strenght, toughness etc. But more prone to rust.

Interested to know what changed.
i clearly remembered what boss said before.
interesting to hear that what the boss say on 3v now.
 
i clearly remembered what boss said before.
interesting to hear that what the boss say on 3v now.
I think the biggest problem is SR-101 wasn't available anymore, or at least not in a good quantity (or thickness?). Anyway, loss of availability. So, if 3V is comparable to SR-101, I can understand them going to that.
 
I think the biggest problem is SR-101 wasn't available anymore, or at least not in a good quantity (or thickness?). Anyway, loss of availability. So, if 3V is comparable to SR-101, I can understand them going to that.
From what I read it was down to a heat treatment problem with SR101, due to the specialised equipment breaking down and they weren't able to get it repaired anymore.
It's pinned to the top of the Busse forum.
 
From what I read it was down to a heat treatment problem with SR101, due to the specialised equipment breaking down and they weren't able to get it repaired anymore.
It's pinned to the top of the Busse forum.

That’s what I remember. The company that made their “ovens”/parts didn’t survive the lockdowns.
 
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