Steel Junky's - need opinions

Hi Sal, will you publish CAD drawings of the mule once it's been finalized? That would make it easier for folks to make scales on ye olde cnc mill.

I'm thinking blaze orange G10 for starters... :D
 
This really is a cool idea, any updated photos yet? A finger choil would be great. How long before a sign up list starts? How about 8Cr13MoV, the Byrd steel.
 
thefirefox said:
This really is a cool idea, any updated photos yet? A finger choil would be great. How long before a sign up list starts? How about 8Cr13MoV, the Byrd steel.
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That would actually be an interesting experiment.

Only question would be whether Sal could get one of the factories over there to make such a small batch.
 
Any word on the sign up for this? I want to make sure I get on the list for this.

Bruceter
 
Hi Doc,

that's an interesting concept. We've got a few sheath makers, but no handle makers...yet.

Hey Firefox,

I think any wteel that the junky's want is viable.

Brucester, we're working up the initial sign up now. We'll probably post it on both Spyderco forums and here.

sal
 
Sal,
Could you include the RC# and any heat treat or processing info that makes the blade unique in the engraved info on the blade? That will make it easier to document the differences in testing. Also it will save me from doing a messy job of it myself. :eek:

This would be especially handy if we have the opportunity to do side by side testing of the same steel treated with different processes.
 
"Heck, maybe Al Pendray will cook up 500 lbs of Wootz."

:eek: :D :thumbup: :thumbup: Man! I'd forgotten all about that! YES, Please If this were possible and HT to optimal it would be Way Cool!:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Me too, me too:p !! Is it possible for me to get em through a spyderco dealer?! I live in Singapore and UPS is gonna be expensive..:grumpy:
 
Hi Sean,

We'll see if we can include Rc as part of the engraving.

Hey SuperSam,

We'll be offering the product through the Spyderco Factory Outlet store at one net price to all. Dealers will be able to purchase them, but the price will still be the same, so I'm not sure many dealers will participate. I'm sure if dealers purchase any, they will want to make a profit on their investment. Hopefully, they will get on board with the "spirit" of the project and keep proices low.

Shipping to overseas customers will probably run about $25 for the shipment. I don't know how many can be shipped for that amount.

Kristi has worked up a sign in procedure to determine if there is enough interest to move forward.

We ended up purchasing a larger amount of steel than we'll need for the run. So it looks like there will be enough around for other projects or "variations" of process like Mar quench.

sal
 
CuriousOne said:
With that in mind two ideas:

1. Make it like a "gateway drug". Make it semi-inexpensive but nice enough to attract a big crowd. Goal is to have hundreds of folks asking for more, right? Are you able to challenge your suppliers to find out who can produce the knife first? Choose the first steel based on that.

2. Make knives that can double as kitchen knives. That way, when someone's collection is "complete" they also have a nice kitchen knife set? (I don't know if this idea is even possible...) For that reason, I like the blade style.
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I'd prefer what CuriousOne suggested - leaf shape is (very) good but I would want about 6" long blades. I don't have that much use for small fixed blade but I'm sure I could find use for versatile blade if nowhere else than in the kitchen :)

(and then there is $25 for shipping each piece... quite a bit rising the price up :()
 
Way off but not far enough off to not like what I'm hearing.

That's gibberish but an interesting knife design and philosophy.
 
Once testing is done on a given blade, I wonder what the EDC possibilities would be...

With the skeletonized handle and a light kydex sheath, would it make a desent neck knife or is it too heavey or long?
 
SeanH said:
Once testing is done on a given blade, I wonder what the EDC possibilities would be...

With the skeletonized handle and a light kydex sheath, would it make a desent neck knife or is it too heavey or long?
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Well, Sal said the blade is 3.5 inches long, so going by the picture, I'd say it's just over 8 inches long? Feels rather long for a neck knife to me.
 
SeanH said:
Once testing is done on a given blade, I wonder what the EDC possibilities would be...
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Assuming that you don't want to keep them all around for comparison against the newest, latest super-steel, it seems like they would make great survival kit knives, vehicle knives, yardwork tools, etc. You're going to have a pile of them.

Gordon
 
Sal, If you're still reading; or anybody else with knowledge. Have you ever had any dealings with the VG10 with added tungsten? I know you did a knife with the AUS 8(W), but I was wondering if you ever tried out the VG10(W)?

I'm still doing some homework on what's available and from where and you would be the most likely person that reads bladefourms that would have encountered this variant.

I'm pretty sure it would not be a common steel, available off the shelf.

Question 2) Would you be doing any of the mules in Japan or strictly golden? Thank you for your time. Joe
 
Hi Joe,

I've not played with the VG-10 variant. The AUS tungsten variant got very sharp, (it cut a folded pieced of paper that was blown along the edge) but didn't hold it as long.

These steels are all custom made to order.

#2,

Anything is possible, but minimums could be a problem.

sal
 
That AUS tungsten sounds pretty fun! Okay, everything on the e-tokko site sounds cool, too...

Would really love to see Mules made from Pendray's wootz.
 
This was posted on BritishBlades. It looks like a valid concern that can be easily corrected.
Dave Day said:
OK, I know f@£^ all about knives, but this design repeats what for me is an inherent problem with so many knives. I'm not poking the finger at anyone because I don't know who uses this type of blade design and who doesn't, but here's my problem.

If you want to sharpen the knife blade, you have two choises, either leave the edge closest to the handle unsharpened, or damage the bolster/finger-guard area because the blade runs right into it and they meet in such a way that you have to make the above choice.

Not sure I've put this very well, but for me (I'm a user, and use my knives, I don't collect/just look at my knives) this is a serious flaw in the overall design. OK, so some of you will think I'm a complete idiot and won't understand what my problem is, but I think some out there will understand at least what I'm getting at even if they don't agree with my point of view.

Sorry to put such a downer on the design, but I just felt I needed to say something. I guess I could modify the blade to eliminate the problem, but then why buy a pre-made blade just to modify it when I could make a blade to a better (in my opinion) design.

I'm probably being WAY too negative, and for that I'm sorry. Maybe caught me on an 'off' day.

Dave.
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Could this be fixed by incorporating a shapening choil? I think that is the right term for the little divot that is somtimes placed between the heel of the edge and the gaurd?

How hard would it be to address this in manufacturing?

Sean
 
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