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Ahhh so the cheaper route would be to just order the 1/.5 Micron Diamond Paste for the strops the Pro Pack comes with instead of using the supplied 3.5/5 stuff! Thanks man!
Super polished edges
- Thread starter REK Knives
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Yeah, I mean, I’m sure going through a longer sequence of strops can up the polish and further refine the edge, but we're talking very small levels of difference at that point. Certainly beyond where it can make a discernible difference in use. But that’s just me.
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That’s exactly my take on it. The human hair is 50 total microns...scientically speaking the human eye cannot see anything small than 40 microns in size. So I’m sure skipping a few won’t hurt like you said.
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Yeah, exactly. I love the idea of whittling a free hanging human hair, but I can’t usually justify the amount of time it takes to get the edge to that point, knowing that all that work will be undone with one slice through cardboard. I like finishing the edge near where I can consistently maintain it, which is usually around 1 micron on the strops, give or take.
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The latest customer job is a nice, plain jane small Sebenza 21. 18 dps, taken to a nice aggressive working finish edge at 1000 grit on the diamond stones. Not a full polish, but still very reflective, I must say.
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I like edges in the 1000-2000 grit range. I feel they have a great combination of sharpness and aggressiveness.
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Not full mirror, but sharpness is acceptable 
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I think this is especially true on high vanadium steels like the S series from crucible.
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I've done several knives since my last post. I'm having fun experimenting with different stones, polishing tapes, sandpaper, etc. Also been refining my technique. I'm still not at the level of some of you guys but getting better...
Your work looks really nice. Good job. Be careful with your tips though. It looks like a few of them may have been rounded.
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Thanks microtech! The Manix came to me pre-rounded by the previous owner. The others were actually rounded by my carelessness using the Sharpmaker. For awhile I was reprofiling using the SM with 1/2" Moldmasters clipped to rods. I would use an up and down motion for speed. Sometimes I would take the tip too low on the downward stroke and round it off. Live and learn I guess. I know I could fix by taking down the spine but not too worried about.
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I too had the same problem when i first got the sharpmaker. I did not even realize it was happening until one day i was wondering why my tips were rounded off.
From the Paper Wheels sticky: another PM2 in S110V.
The new edge was done on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, and then refined with 6.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound, all on dedicated Paper Wheels.
The apex is keen enough to whittle several curls in a row on one of my chest hairs while holding the hair at the root end only.
You can click each pic 2 X for a bit more detail.
The new edge was done on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, and then refined with 6.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound, all on dedicated Paper Wheels.
The apex is keen enough to whittle several curls in a row on one of my chest hairs while holding the hair at the root end only.
You can click each pic 2 X for a bit more detail.
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My Inkosi from yesterday was at 26 degree. My previous sm inkosi was at 23 degrees. My sm inkosi insingo in the below picture, was stock 18 degrees, the heel of the blade was not even at all, I couldn't get it completely sharpened but still looks good.
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I hope you guys don't mind a few questions in this thread....
First and foremost, for those using or familiar with using Edge Pro type systems, how in the heck do you deal with severely angled plunge grinds like the Sliverax has? I've been working on reprofiling this one for a little while now. I've been pulling the handle of the knife out so I can work close to the plunge grind and then trying to blend with the rest of the edge grind. Honestly, it's not looking very good at the point. I figure I better stop and get some input before totally messing it up. Pic below was taken shorty after I started.
First and foremost, for those using or familiar with using Edge Pro type systems, how in the heck do you deal with severely angled plunge grinds like the Sliverax has? I've been working on reprofiling this one for a little while now. I've been pulling the handle of the knife out so I can work close to the plunge grind and then trying to blend with the rest of the edge grind. Honestly, it's not looking very good at the point. I figure I better stop and get some input before totally messing it up. Pic below was taken shorty after I started.
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Is your problem the stone is hitting the handle?
Otherwise, the last bit seems to be unsharpened and it will require special focus & attention to that specific area.
Sorry, I do free hand so I’d be using small round or flat diamond file to work on that spot before doing full sweep sharpening on normal stone.
Another option is to ensure the plunge line is parallel to the stone movement on the EP. It will result in the stone hitting only that spot. Is that your problem? It’s probably the reason factory sharpening result is like that (last bit left out).
Otherwise, the last bit seems to be unsharpened and it will require special focus & attention to that specific area.
Sorry, I do free hand so I’d be using small round or flat diamond file to work on that spot before doing full sweep sharpening on normal stone.
Another option is to ensure the plunge line is parallel to the stone movement on the EP. It will result in the stone hitting only that spot. Is that your problem? It’s probably the reason factory sharpening result is like that (last bit left out).
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Thanks Chris!
No, the stone's not hitting the handle but the handle is right at the plunge grind though.
I've dealt with this area on other knives. The problem with this particular knife is that the angle of the plunge grind is so severe that you have to move the knife way out to the side, the handle way out toward you, or a combination of both in order to get in there with the stone. When doing this the edge bevel I was creating looked more wonky than usual. I ended up switching from the 1" wide bonded diamond stone I was using to some 1/2" wide SiC stones and I was able to clean up the area pretty well. I still had to pull the handle way out toward me but the smaller stones seemed to get in there better.