Survival Kit Survival Hatches, Axes, Saws, Shovels, etc.

[DDDYLN]

Here's a eBay sale link if the Craftsman 4810 hatchet.

Link removed, read the site rules.

 

[DDDYLN]

Yes and no on buy once cry once. Sports cars as an example, higher performance, higher cost, and higher maintenance.

Obviously, I like silky saws. I've never broken a blade, but many people have and if mine binds, I'm cutting it out with an axe or machete and treating it nicely.

Also, not sure where you're going with the survival tools thing, but if you're just going to throw it in a bag for an unlikely what-if scenario, I'm going lower budget and nearly as good of a tool nearly every time. Like a mora companion, great tool, not a huge cost. Throw 3 in there while you're at it.

Unless the scenario is likely, I'm not dropping top dollar on a tool to sit in a kit. "Good enough" is just that, good enough. Maybe go a little more, but no less. I'm not getting Gransfors axe to drop in a kit either, as another example of something better than I need and maybe not actually the best option even.

If you're going to use it and not just let it sit, then I think the cost is justified. They're great saws. Just know what you have when you're using it.

Just throwing it out there too, machetes make great "survival" tools as well as they are working tools, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. In many instances, I would put a machete over an axe in a kit because of weight, space, price, and I find machetes very useful tools. There are numerous stainless machetes that would be good options also, going back to your originally question. Many bad ones, but some good ones too.

Thanks. I have the Ontario 18" machete (not sawback), and the plastic sheath. I also have several Cold Steel machetes (4-5 I think). The Cold Steel jungle machete is my favorite. However, Cold Steel machetes are 1055, while the Ontario is 1075, with a lot more heft. The Ontario's are also just shy of 4_mm thick, while Cold Steel machetes are typically 2.8_mm think. That said, Cold Steel's South African machetes must have a great heat treat. I cut through an 8" diameter hardwood log with my Cold Steel Jungle Machete. There was zero damage to the edge, which shocked me. That said, it took some doing, due to the lack of heft. Machetes definitely have more uses, but a decent hatchet will cut through wood much faster. I'll probably just sharpen and oil my old Craftsman hatchet, and throw it in the bug out bag, along with my Cold Steel Jungle Machete, and a folding hand saw.

 

[DDDYLN]

Yes and no on buy once cry once. Sports cars as an example, higher performance, higher cost, and higher maintenance.

Obviously, I like silky saws. I've never broken a blade, but many people have and if mine binds, I'm cutting it out with an axe or machete and treating it nicely.

Also, not sure where you're going with the survival tools thing, but if you're just going to throw it in a bag for an unlikely what-if scenario, I'm going lower budget and nearly as good of a tool nearly every time. Like a mora companion, great tool, not a huge cost. Throw 3 in there while you're at it.

Unless the scenario is likely, I'm not dropping top dollar on a tool to sit in a kit. "Good enough" is just that, good enough. Maybe go a little more, but no less. I'm not getting Gransfors axe to drop in a kit either, as another example of something better than I need and maybe not actually the best option even.

If you're going to use it and not just let it sit, then I think the cost is justified. They're great saws. Just know what you have when you're using it.

Just throwing it out there too, machetes make great "survival" tools as well as they are working tools, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. In many instances, I would put a machete over an axe in a kit because of weight, space, price, and I find machetes very useful tools. There are numerous stainless machetes that would be good options also, going back to your originally question. Many bad ones, but some good ones too.

I probably should have clarified, that I'm planning to buy one of those waterproof/lockable storage racks to put on the top on my Xterra. I plan to put bug out stuff in it. I wasn't planning on putting all my buyout gear in my back country backpack. I should have significant room in one of those storage racks.

 

[bikerector]

Thanks. I have the Ontario 18" machete (not sawback), and the plastic sheath. I also have several Cold Steel machetes (4-5 I think). The Cold Steel jungle machete is my favorite. However, Cold Steel machetes are 1055, while the Ontario is 1075, with a lot more heft. The Ontario's are also just shy of 4_mm thick, while Cold Steel machetes are typically 2.8_mm think. That said, Cold Steel's South African machetes must have a great heat treat. I cut through an 8" diameter hardwood log with my Cold Steel Jungle Machete. There was zero damage to the edge, which shocked me. That said, it took some doing, due to the lack of heft. Machetes definitely have more uses, but a decent hatchet will cut through wood much faster. I'll probably just sharpen and oil my old Craftsman hatchet, and throw it in the bug out bag, along with my Cold Steel Jungle Machete, and a folding hand saw.

Machete + saw often weigh less than the hatchet. Also, in a survival situation, you're probably not going to need to cut down an 8" thick piece wood or tree. Go for the smaller stuff. Easier to process and easier to handle, and plenty to build a shelter with.

I probably should have clarified, that I'm planning to buy one of those waterproof/lockable storage racks to put on the top on my Xterra. I plan to put bug out stuff in it. I wasn't planning on putting all my buyout gear in my back country backpack. I should have significant room in one of those storage racks.

That does change things a bit as far as how much room you have available.

 

[beeinak]

I have an old Ontario military machete with sawback. I have used the heck out of the machete and it has worked well. Never needed to use the sawback other than to say it works well for pulling long brush towards me when felling trees and needing a clear area.

Fwiw I wipe down my outdoor tools with silicone spray after use and never have issues with rust.

 

[DDDYLN]

I have an old Ontario military machete with sawback. I have used the heck out of the machete and it has worked well. Never needed to use the sawback other than to say it works well for pulling long brush towards me when felling trees and needing a clear area.

Fwiw I wipe down my outdoor tools with silicone spray after use and never have issues with rust.

I use petroleum jelly. Maybe I'll switch to silicone.

 

[beeinak]

I use petroleum jelly. Maybe I'll switch to silicone.

I find it easy to keep a silicone sprayed cloth in a small zip lock, so that is what I use for tools/knives/guns (except for blades that may see food duty). So many good products can be used.

Good luck with your kit.

 

[DDDYLN]

Thanks. I only use petroleum jelly, because I have too many carbon seet blades. I used to use mineral oil, but it doesn't last as long. Now, as long as my blades are indoors, I can go 6 months without having to reapply the coating. A lot of people use gun oil, but that stuff is toxic. Ballistol might not be toxic, but I don't think it would last long. If I'm going to use a knife on food, I use mineral oil.

 

[DDDYLN]

Silky’s are great.

I bought the Corona 7 Inch RS 7245 Razor Tooth Folding Saw, 7-Inch Curved Blade, in SK5 carbon steel. Reviews show it to perform as well as the Silky's, but for less than half the price. Some of the Silky's come with a clear plastic case. That's the only thing I'll be missing. I'll have to buy some sort of sheath or case for it.

 

[DDDYLN]

Folks, my Corona 7 Inch RS 7245 Razor Tooth Folding Saw arrived in a clamshell package. The steel is SK5 high carbon. If I leave in the sealed clamshell package, do you think it will rust? I'd prefer to just throw it in with my bug out trunk in the package.

 

[Blue Sky]

Not sure “sealed” is the right way to describe most clam shells, so depending how damp or humid the environment is where your gear will be stored, corrosion could definitely become an issue over time imo.

 

[DDDYLN]

Not sure “sealed” is the right way to describe most clam shells, so depending how damp or humid the environment is where your gear will be stored, corrosion could definitely become an issue over time imo.

I actually returned the Corona, and bought a Wicked Tree Gear 7" folding saw with the sheath. I got it on a super sale at OpticsPlanet. It won't cut as fast as the Corona, but it's extremely sturdy, with the all aluminum handle. If it completely sucks, someone will buy it from me. The Corona's have the fastest cutting blades, with excellent chrome coated SK-5 steel. I'm not sure how long the locking mechanisms will last. I did cut through a piece of hardware store wood I had in my house, with the Wicked Tree Gear folding saw. It seemed difficult, but I was holding the wood across my knees, so it wasn't stable.

 

[Aaron880]

IMO, THE MOST VERSATILE AXE/ PRY BAR / SHOVEL / MULTIWRENCH COMBO TOOL IS THE Ontario SPAX-16 tool. This is the rescue tool that is standard issue on Marine 1. The ugly duckling of such tools: ~13in.s long and ~2lb.s + nylon sheath of thick5160 carbon steel and rubber h covered handle. This tool features a curved 5” axe blade that can smash thru wood, sheet metal, plexiglass/ polycarbonate:; a curved pick ( and curvred axe top) to act as pry bar, concrete block smasher, heavy metal piercer, manhole cover lifter, helmet piercer; curved axe top semi-useful as a makeshift shovel and finally, an odd shaped cutout in center of the axe blade which will act a a gas/ watercock wrench and open and close fire hydrants ( an unbelievable source of usually potable water in urban areas , not to mention a source of water to decontaminate people and equipment coated in 9/11 building dust, poisonous chemicals , etc. it will serve as a last ditch melee weapon, although that’s not in its design/ use spec.s. Cost ( new) varies widely, from ~$65 -$125 dollars, so shop around. There is even a secondary market for used versions. Each of my cars and kids’ cars has one of them and larger survival kits , as well. This tool will serve you and your grandkids. I coat mine in a bit of vasoline , altho it’s has an anti corrosion finish on all but the cutting edges and rubber handle ( handle sprayed with silicon ). Mine last years with no rust or degradation ,before recoating. Best at nothing. Pretty darn good at all tasks outlined above. Checkout UTube destruction ( try) videos.

Add a pair of heavy work/ leather gloves; watertight swim googles; LM Wave+ ( or equivalent ) , a Knipex 8” bolt cutter, to cut the heaviest fence wire ,including diamond plate urban gate/ fence mesh ( or a Capri Tools equivalent tool if u r on a budget) ; small Silky type folding saw ( optional really) ; either a full size hacksaw or small keyhole type hack saw , with a rod blade + spare; 10’ to 10yd.s of flat-rolled 2” Gorilla Tape; ~10’+ of lightweight SS wire coiled; 50’ or more of good quality, 7 strand, 550 ( or 750 ) cord ( I fold mine in about a 10” coil and wrap the coil with several layers of Saran Wrap, twist and tape over the ends to protect the cord and extend its useful life ) and a couple of medium weight 3” nails with heads to create anchor points, and u have yourself a broad spectrum , but lightweight rescue / survival/ E&E tool kit. If weight is a factor, the heavier components can be left behind in ur car/ office/ home , to lighten a bug-out backpack.

Options: A 12” or 21” Titanium pry bar ( Stilleto Tools . Expensive, check for sales, but lightweight and very strong. The smaller bar is actually is light enough to include in a backpack kit.).
My car and or backpack kits also include a Gerber LMF II sheath knife. It’s a reasonably priced ( shop it as prices vary and sales are often available. ), sharpened pry-bar, with the ability to cut / rip ( partially serrated ) and safely cut even some charged electrical lines ( Google US Army team’s use to cut such charged lines in Afghan war.). Also useful for anything else a 5” combat / utility knife is intended for.

 

[DDDYLN]

IMO, THE MOST VERSATILE AXE/ PRY BAR / SHOVEL / MULTIWRENCH COMBO TOOL IS THE Ontario SPAX-16 tool. This is the rescue tool that is standard issue on Marine 1. The ugly duckling of such tools: ~13in.s long and ~2lb.s + nylon sheath of thick5160 carbon steel and rubber h covered handle. This tool features a curved 5” axe blade that can smash thru wood, sheet metal, plexiglass/ polycarbonate:; a curved pick ( and curvred axe top) to act as pry bar, concrete block smasher, heavy metal piercer, manhole cover lifter, helmet piercer; curved axe top semi-useful as a makeshift shovel and finally, an odd shaped cutout in center of the axe blade which will act a a gas/ watercock wrench and open and close fire hydrants ( an unbelievable source of usually potable water in urban areas , not to mention a source of water to decontaminate people and equipment coated in 9/11 building dust, poisonous chemicals , etc. it will serve as a last ditch melee weapon, although that’s not in its design/ use spec.s. Cost ( new) varies widely, from ~$65 -$125 dollars, so shop around. There is even a secondary market for used versions. Each of my cars and kids’ cars has one of them and larger survival kits , as well. This tool will serve you and your grandkids. I coat mine in a bit of vasoline , altho it’s has an anti corrosion finish on all but the cutting edges and rubber handle ( handle sprayed with silicon ). Mine last years with no rust or degradation ,before recoating. Best at nothing. Pretty darn good at all tasks outlined above. Checkout UTube destruction ( try) videos.

Add a pair of heavy work/ leather gloves; watertight swim googles; LM Wave+ ( or equivalent ) , a Knipex 8” bolt cutter, to cut the heaviest fence wire ,including diamond plate urban gate/ fence mesh ( or a Capri Tools equivalent tool if u r on a budget) ; small Silky type folding saw ( optional really) ; either a full size hacksaw or small keyhole type hack saw , with a rod blade + spare; 10’ to 10yd.s of flat-rolled 2” Gorilla Tape; ~10’+ of lightweight SS wire coiled; 50’ or more of good quality, 7 strand, 550 ( or 750 ) cord ( I fold mine in about a 10” coil and wrap the coil with several layers of Saran Wrap, twist and tape over the ends to protect the cord and extend its useful life ) and a couple of medium weight 3” nails with heads to create anchor points, and u have yourself a broad spectrum , but lightweight rescue / survival/ E&E tool kit. If weight is a factor, the heavier components can be left behind in ur car/ office/ home , to lighten a bug-out backpack.

Options: A 12” or 21” Titanium pry bar ( Stilleto Tools . Expensive, check for sales, but lightweight and very strong. The smaller bar is actually is light enough to include in a backpack kit.).
My car and or backpack kits also include a Gerber LMF II sheath knife. It’s a reasonably priced ( shop it as prices vary and sales are often available. ), sharpened pry-bar, with the ability to cut / rip ( partially serrated ) and safely cut even some charged electrical lines ( Google US Army team’s use to cut such charged lines in Afghan war.). Also useful for anything else a 5” combat / utility knife is intended for.

I've considered buying the OKC SPAX, but I didn't know what I would use it for. It, and it's Marbles clone, seem to be made for firemen. I'll give it another look. I've currently been busy refurbishing two 50+ year old, complete solid forged 1080 camp axe/hatchets. I finally got all the rust off. Now I need to repair the old rubber grips. For one of them, I'm going to need to make a PVC sheath. I know it makes no sense, because I could but new ones. But, one of them has sentimental value to me. I'll watch a YouTube video on the OKC SPAX, to see why it would be useful.

 

[Aaron880]

I've considered buying the OKC SPAX, but I didn't know what I would use it for. It, and it's Marbles clone, seem to be made for firemen. I'll give it another look. I've currently been busy refurbishing two 50+ year old, complete solid forged 1080 camp axe/hatchets. I finally got all the rust off. Now I need to repair the old rubber grips. For one of them, I'm going to need to make a PVC sheath. I know it makes no sense, because I could but new ones. But, one of them has sentimental value to me. I'll watch a YouTube video on the OKC SPAX, to see why it would be useful.

I think u will be best served by watching a few of the real practical use Spaz-16 videos including the destruction type video. None r very long and each has a nugget or two of information or a test that the others don’t have. That’s how I decided to order my first SPAX. After that , I tested the first purchase , in each of the uses I mentioned. That really sold me. NOTE: I did the hydrant test with the blessing of the local Fire Chief, a friend, who looked on. Opening fire hydrants without proper authorization is a criminal act in many jurisdictions.

Good luck with ur refurburshing. I understand dedicating time refurbishing an even an inexpensive keepsake. Years ago I di it with my Cub Scout jackknife, which I found , accidentally, after decades of loss. A lot less work than u r attempting, but the same concept.

 

[DDDYLN]

I think u will be best served by watching a few of the real practical use Spaz-16 videos including the destruction type video. None r very long and each has a nugget or two of information or a test that the others don’t have. That’s how I decided to order my first SPAX. After that , I tested the first purchase , in each of the uses I mentioned. That really sold me. NOTE: I did the hydrant test with the blessing of the local Fire Chief, a friend, who looked on. Opening fire hydrants without proper authorization is a criminal act in many jurisdictions.

Good luck with ur refurburshing. I understand dedicating time refurbishing an even an inexpensive keepsake. Years ago I di it with my Cub Scout jackknife, which I found , accidentally, after decades of loss. A lot less work than u r attempting, but the same concept.

Well, it seems like the OKC SPAX (SP16) would be a great tool to leave in my vehicle. It's actually meant to be a crash axe, which are in all commercial airplanes. They're meant to help people get out of a busted up vehicle. I'd definitely like to have one. I would tie it down to the back of the passenger seat.

It's definitely not an a camping our wilderness survival tool. However, it could be used as one in a pinch. A camp axe or hatchet would work better (depending on the design), but the OKC SPAX can do both. I doubt it will chop wood like a real camp axe. But, it's an important tool, and can double as a camp axe

It can help me extricate my family from a vehicle crash, and double an axe/tomahawk. That's good enough for me.

 

[Drop bear]

Machete + saw often weigh less than the hatchet. Also, in a survival situation, you're probably not going to need to cut down an 8" thick piece wood or tree. Go for the smaller stuff. Easier to process and easier to handle, and plenty to build a shelter with.



That does change things a bit as far as how much room you have available.

Trees over roads after an environmental disaster is a real issue.

Of course a chainsaw is the best tool for that.

 

[DDDYLN]

For shovels I keep a full size shovel in the truck when I’m out adventuring. For compact shoves, Glock folding shovels and Cold Steel shovels get my recommendation. Hatchets/axes my go to choices are Fiskars, RMJ, Council, CRKT, and H&B Forge. I don’t have a large saw but I really like the Silkys and Fiskars folders. I have a Fiskars that’s not very common with a ten inch blade that cuts wonderfully. If I’m cutting firewood for myself or just a couple people, 15-20 minutes will get a lot of wood cut

I did buy the Glock e-tool. It's very nice, and extremely lightweight.

 

[DDDYLN]

Yes and no on buy once cry once. Sports cars as an example, higher performance, higher cost, and higher maintenance.

Obviously, I like silky saws. I've never broken a blade, but many people have and if mine binds, I'm cutting it out with an axe or machete and treating it nicely.

Also, not sure where you're going with the survival tools thing, but if you're just going to throw it in a bag for an unlikely what-if scenario, I'm going lower budget and nearly as good of a tool nearly every time. Like a mora companion, great tool, not a huge cost. Throw 3 in there while you're at it.

Unless the scenario is likely, I'm not dropping top dollar on a tool to sit in a kit. "Good enough" is just that, good enough. Maybe go a little more, but no less. I'm not getting Gransfors axe to drop in a kit either, as another example of something better than I need and maybe not actually the best option even.

If you're going to use it and not just let it sit, then I think the cost is justified. They're great saws. Just know what you have when you're using it.

Just throwing it out there too, machetes make great "survival" tools as well as they are working tools, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. In many instances, I would put a machete over an axe in a kit because of weight, space, price, and I find machetes very useful tools. There are numerous stainless machetes that would be good options also, going back to your originally question. Many bad ones, but some good ones too.

My survival tools of choice would be the Ontario 18" machete (non sawback), with the old school polymer sheath. I already have both. Those OKC machetes are tough enough to baton wood. I'll pair it with my Wicked Tree Gear folding saw, that came with a nice sheath. It doesn't cut as well as a Silky or Corona, but it's built very heavy duty. BTW, Corona folding saws actually cut better than Silky's. I'm not sure if they're are durable. I would also take my new Glock e-tool. It's very lightweight and strong, but it comes with a pretty crappy sheath. I'll bring my Cold Steel Drop Forged Survivalist as well.

 

[DDDYLN]

Yes and no on buy once cry once. Sports cars as an example, higher performance, higher cost, and higher maintenance.

Obviously, I like silky saws. I've never broken a blade, but many people have and if mine binds, I'm cutting it out with an axe or machete and treating it nicely.

Also, not sure where you're going with the survival tools thing, but if you're just going to throw it in a bag for an unlikely what-if scenario, I'm going lower budget and nearly as good of a tool nearly every time. Like a mora companion, great tool, not a huge cost. Throw 3 in there while you're at it.

Unless the scenario is likely, I'm not dropping top dollar on a tool to sit in a kit. "Good enough" is just that, good enough. Maybe go a little more, but no less. I'm not getting Gransfors axe to drop in a kit either, as another example of something better than I need and maybe not actually the best option even.

If you're going to use it and not just let it sit, then I think the cost is justified. They're great saws. Just know what you have when you're using it.

Just throwing it out there too, machetes make great "survival" tools as well as they are working tools, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. In many instances, I would put a machete over an axe in a kit because of weight, space, price, and I find machetes very useful tools. There are numerous stainless machetes that would be good options also, going back to your originally question. Many bad ones, but some good ones too.

The OCK military machetes + polymer sheath are great. You can modify the sheath with a sling, and attach other tools to it with ranger bands, or your preferred attachment method. There's about an inch of extra real estate at the bottom of the sheath, so you can bolt attachments on there. And even though the carbide sharpener that comes with the sheath isn't very good, it will work well enough in a pinch.