The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

Casinostocks said:
..... I found the Lite & UL models a bit mousy TBH but that's just me!
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I have an Elmax UL and I totally agree. That being said, mousy knives satisfy one of my specific EDC needs. One reason I treasure my UL is because it, my small Sebenza and my ZT 0450 all fill the specific EDC niche of being excellent EDC’s in situations where a very discreet CC knife is required.

I occasionally spend time visiting office environments that are extremely "weapons-sensitive" and I’d be begging for trouble if I displayed a clip or the kind of noticeable pocket print that most of my knives cause. My three little mousies are ideal for EDCing on days when I have to spend time visiting those office environments. Because of that, they satisfy an EDC need that no "regular size" knife could satisfy.
 
Yes that TNK was a risk, the dealer in question wouldn’t let me open the knife to determine the issue myself so I returned it. The price I paid was for a good condition one and wasn’t worth the risk, the price you paid was. When you buy a knife that cheap, expect problems. But that knife is several years old and has to come from a secondary market.

The vast majority of my Shiros came from the Shiro website direct or R1. The 3 Zeros I got all came from R1. Want to see an invoice?

How many have you had? I’d estimate I’ve spent 10k+, wouldn’t be shocked to hear 15k on Shiro in the past 12 months. Probably close to 40 through my hands, no full customs but I’ve had.... 8-9 maybe over the 2k mark. They aren’t all bad, but some of them are.

Are you honestly saying if you had a second bad one you would dump the brand? How many do you have and still be in when I have never had 2 really good/perfect ones in a row. I’ve even sent a CD back to the shop and know others that have.

I also favour the designs I can tune myself, as I can generally tune them better than anything that comes out of the shop at CD level or down. I haven’t had a full custom to compare.

Ask mpjustin mpjustin about the mechanics on the F95R he bought from me. It was from R1 and was a huge POS I had to fix nearly every aspect of, including hardware. I tuned it till it was better than any Shiro I’ve ever had, and as good as the CD Sergey personally tuned for me.

Admittedly I have high expectations, and I feel at this price point they are warranted. Just like I expect more from my BMW than I do my wife’s Chrysler.

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CPP said:
I though Grumpy Cat was dead! I would have given up on a brand after the second problematic knife–that's why I sold my only Benchmade and never bought another. Fortunately, I've never had a problem with any of the Shiros that I bought directly from the authorized dealer. I bought two on the secondary market and one of them, the CF RDD, was fine although I suspect the previous owner used the strong variety of Loktite. The Cannabis I bought was another story altogether (I believe we discussed the exact one on the other forum). I bought it on the understanding that it had minor lock-rock which it did when I received it. I realized the pivot was loose, tightened it and it then had perfect lockup. A little while later I took it apart to give it a cleaning and discovered that seven or so bearings were missing from one side and a handle screw was beginning to strip. I am receiving the replacements in the mail today but that was obviously the fault of the previous owner. Of course, there's a big difference between buying a faulty knife brand new and buying one second hand...
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No need to ask me about that F95R ;). I’ll come right out and say it is mechanically amazing!!! Smoothest action I have owned to date! I would send any of my knives to Justin for tuning and would rather buy one that has been through his hands then NIB because I know exactly what I’m getting. :)

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JustinFournier said:
Yes that TNK was a risk, the dealer in question wouldn’t let me open the knife to determine the issue myself so I returned it. The price I paid was for a good condition one and wasn’t worth the risk, the price you paid was. When you buy a knife that cheap, expect problems. But that knife is several years old and has to come from a secondary market.

The vast majority of my Shiros came from the Shiro website direct or R1. The 3 Zeros I got all came from R1. Want to see an invoice?

How many have you had? I’d estimate I’ve spent 10k+, wouldn’t be shocked to hear 15k on Shiro in the past 12 months. Probably close to 40 through my hands, no full customs but I’ve had.... 8-9 maybe over the 2k mark. They aren’t all bad, but some of them are.

Are you honestly saying if you had a second bad one you would dump the brand? How many do you have and still be in when I have never had 2 really good/perfect ones in a row. I’ve even sent a CD back to the shop and know others that have.

I also favour the designs I can tune myself, as I can generally tune them better than anything that comes out of the shop at CD level or down. I haven’t had a full custom to compare.

Ask mpjustin mpjustin about the mechanics on the F95R he bought from me. It was from R1 and was a huge POS I had to fix nearly every aspect of, including hardware. I tuned it till it was better than any Shiro I’ve ever had, and as good as the CD Sergey personally tuned for me.

Admittedly I have high expectations, and I feel at this price point they are warranted. Just like I expect more from my BMW than I do my wife’s Chrysler.

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JustinFournier JustinFournier , I apologize if my post came off as confrontational or dismissive. The point I was trying to make was that of the 13 Shiros I currently own (and the one that I sold) I haven't had a problem. The near perfect fit and finish I have experienced is as much a part of the attraction as the design and performance of each.
 
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Now that I have had a chance to pocket, carry and flip/flick the Zero incessantly like a maniac, I am getting the hang of it more:

Unlike my older NeOn Lites and my F95T which were/are more forgiving on some pressure on the lockbar (we have discussed the over travel already on those older patterns) this NeOn very much like the F95NL (I have had 2 GXs go through my hands but just fondling a bit to check out the mechanics) is very much unforgiving on any kind of pressure being on it lockbar if attempting to flip it open. Therefore, must learn to hold it differently as opposed to the other aforementioned by placing the middle finger on the clip with the butt of the knife nestled in the pad of the palm. This is no big deal but just need more practice to develop muscle memory for smoother operation. Depending on the size of one's hands, you may end up flipping it open better with the side pad of the index finger.

Ironically for a right hand person, I flip it open better and more brainlessly with my left hand as I do not have the bad habit of putting pressure on the lockbar when in my left hand! still though, it will need to be cycled many more hundreds and 1000's of times for it to run smoother! Lastly, my NeOn Zero did not come anywhere near what I would describe as screaming sharp but was sharp enough needing some further work. Not dull, working edge but not sharp enough for edge fiends!
 
CPP said:
JustinFournier JustinFournier , I apologize if my post came off as confrontational or dismissive. The point I was trying to make was that of the 13 Shiros I currently own (and the one that I sold) I haven't had a problem. The near perfect fit and finish I have experienced is as much a part of the attraction as the design and performance of each.
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We're all good. I’m glad you’ve had 13 with no issue!

I’ve never had a single machining issue outside of marred fasteners from factory, only mechanical and blade centering complaints.
 
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That's disappointing to hear. As much as I wanted one I passed on the CD full titanium 111s that just hit the authorized dealer. I had two in the cart twice and just barely stopped myself from checking out both times.

I think my limit for a folding knife is going to be what the regular 111s and F95s are going for(1100 bucks). LOL well I say that but if those CD 111s were 1500-1700 I'm sure I would have went in on them.

As far as the QC issues are concerned I must say if I shelled out 6400 for 2 knives and either had even the slightest problem I'd be pretty mad. I also agree with the earlier sentiment about leaving a brand after one error. If I buy a knife for 400 or more and get a dud I'm walking away for good.
 
falar said:
As far as the QC issues are concerned I must say if I shelled out 6400 for 2 knives and either had even the slightest problem I'd be pretty mad. I also agree with the earlier sentiment about leaving a brand after one error. If I buy a knife for 400 or more and get a dud I'm walking away for good.
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An important caveat would be that I would hold onto whatever knives I have from that company that are problem free; I just wouldn't risk buying more.

Also, I think I'm done buying Shiros or any other brand on the secondary market as both Shiros I've bought have problems that don't originate from the manufacturer. Both were purchased at really nice prices so I got what I paid for... Until a full-custom NeOn goes up for sale that is.
 
Pretty new to the Shiro scene. Have only been interested in the brand for maybe 3-4 months.

With that being said, in those months, I've went through four Turtles, all 3 bear, one nudist slim three bear, the same bronze nudist 3 bear twice, a frag, and one Hokkaido with another on the way.

One of the things I enjoy about Shiro more than any other brand is that I have never gotten a dud. Most had fantastic action and stellar fit and finish. A few could easily command "best in my collection" status. The rest of my Shiros are probably forming up the rest of the top 10.

While my results have been great, obviously with like 10k vested in 3 months, none of my knives have been consistent.

All of them very different. Some snappier, others softer. Lock up has been sub 30% for all of them but it's all over that spectrum. Closure on some is guillotinesque while others soft and effervescent.

The one thing I will say has been consistent is this -

The new knives need to be broke in. Marked improvement on all actions when actuated many many times.

Nudists perform poorer than Turtles. All of my Nudists have been tighter, in a bad way. Stronger detents. Slower/stickier closure. Just not as good.

Please note, I've yet to be dissatisfied and my critiques are my reflections on what I consider to be one of the most supreme knife manufacturers in the world.

YMMV.
 
I am no connoisseur of finer things... (I drive a 2005 Camry and wear a Casio) but I have caught the Shiro-fever bad... (similar to Ebola, but mainly causes financial hemorrhages rather than intestinal hemorrhages)

I have owned a few Shiros for several years, but just recently got the full-on Shiro-infection... each of my new Shirogorov knives is a bit different... but all are better that 99% of my other knives (over a thousand) and I am quite forgiving... (as is my wife)

I have purchased Shiros from members here, Recon-1, and the 'bay... and I have never been disappointed... but again, I'm easy to please... I looked at all my knives from Shirogorov and they all look centered to me... I love the blade finishes... the design... (I am not getting well any time soon...)

I have trouble with some models (HaTi, F95...) with squeezing the lock-bar and making the flipper more difficult...

some of my F3s seem to have weak detents... but hell... to me it all averages out!!!

I have no idea when I will have enough of these knives... but I am selling off most of my other knives without much of a backward glance... (Benchmade, Kershaw, ZT, Spyderco, etc.)

so from me it is 1.9944 thumbs up :thumbsup: (took a chunk out of one the other day on a rapid blade-drop)

Mike
 
SeppukuSamurai said:
...... While my results have been great ...... none of my knives have been consistent..... All of them very different..... Please note, I've yet to be dissatisfied .... YMMV.
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IMO you’re very understanding, patient and accepting to still be a Team Shiro player after what you describe. I’m admittedly an old school PITA, but when I drop long bucks on a knife (which to me is >$400), I expect zero significant issues and unvarying uniformity and consistency. In the >$1K range, I expect perfection in materials, fit, finish and workmanship. Anything less than that would put me off in a bad way and drive me out of the fold with bad feelings. Thus far I’ve only bought an Elmax NeOn UL and an M390 Turtle (both new and from the US authorized dealer). Each has been flawless (as I’d expect at the NeOn UL level and demand at the Turtle level). You said “Most...” (of your Shiros) “...had fantastic action and stellar fit and finish.” IMO--in the Shiro price range, every knife they ship out should fit that description---no exceptions and no excuses allowed.

Oh well--enough ranting for now. My old school PITA attitude is one reason I like my CRKs so much. The consistency/uniformity and the absence of any problems in any of the five I have is absolute and total.

I’m not done buying Shiros yet. Next on deck will likely be a 111 (although who knows?) and I look forward to it being every bit the prize my NeOn UL and Turtle have proved to be.
 
CPP: I bought my first ever Shiro from you which was a serial 111 CF. I didn't know my arse from my elbow when it came to Shiros other than just dropping in this thread to read up. I think that the knife which you sold me was a superb "2nd" hand one. Now was it perfect? The answer would be subjective depending on one's prior experiences: If a perfect Shiro is defined by perfect gravity drop-shut action or screaming sharp edge, well no that was not a 10-10 knife but none of that was on you because the knife was too new and barely broken-in! (Shiro factory edges have been kinda meh when it comes to screaming sharp but I understand as to why). Incidentally I know one of the sellers whom you bought one of your 2nd hand Shiros from and without having experienced that particular knife in person, I have read enough about that model to have formed the opinion that the prevalent issues were squarely on that pattern and version, but that's JMO.

I'm more in the same boat about the subject with S.Samurai and also Pharmagator; I have had about 10+ Shiros of different models and patterns go through my hands and just as S.Samurai explained in his observational post, they all felt differently to me mechanically and action-wise. If I know the source where the 2nd hand Shiro is coming from, I will not have a problem buying it, unless I come to find out that the pattern suffered from some prevalent issues. Speaking of new vs "used" or as I call 2nd-hand, my roughest one so far has been the only new one which I have ever bought, i.e, the NeOn Zero which incidentally is getting better and better with more carry and its incessant flipping :)
 
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Stumpy72 said:
IMO you’re very understanding, patient and accepting to still be a Team Shiro player after what you describe. I’m admittedly an old school PITA, but when I drop long bucks on a knife (which to me is >$400), I expect zero significant issues and unvarying uniformity and consistency. In the >$1K range, I expect perfection in materials, fit, finish and workmanship. Anything less than that would put me off in a bad way and drive me out of the fold with bad feelings. Thus far I’ve only bought an Elmax NeOn UL and an M390 Turtle (both new and from the US authorized dealer). Each has been flawless (as I’d expect at the NeOn UL level and demand at the Turtle level). You said “Most...” (of your Shiros) “...had fantastic action and stellar fit and finish.” IMO--in the Shiro price range, every knife they ship out should fit that description---no exceptions and no excuses allowed.

Oh well--enough ranting for now. My old school PITA attitude is one reason I like my CRKs so much. The consistency/uniformity and the absence of any problems in any of the five I have is absolute and total.

I’m not done buying Shiros yet. Next on deck will likely be a 111 (although who knows?) and I look forward to it being every bit the prize my NeOn UL and Turtle have proved to be.
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Well, I'm really comparing Shiros against Shiros here. I have probably owned just about every brand and multiple examples of said brand in the main stream for the past 5 years. Lots of niche stuff too.

I'm in the process of selling a pretty honed in collection as a result of Shirogorov. They simply make better knives.

The "bad" ones were really just excellent knives compared with other excellent knives with a slight edge in certain areas.

I highly recommend Shiro. I think that if you're going to dive in the $500 + range you may as well save yourself some time and start with a Shiro, it's where I'm ending.
 
Hey guys, sorry to bother you, I’ve looked everywhere and couldn’t find where to post this question, so here it goes, how do you like to dial in your pivot? Just got my first shiro, a 95fl and Im so happy, I was playing with adjustments yesterday and found that thitening all the way and then maybe 1//8” loose was the perfect feel for me. maybe it could be smoother, any tips would be much appreciated, thanks

Luis
 
Grandmaster said:
Hey guys, sorry to bother you, I’ve looked everywhere and couldn’t find where to post this question, so here it goes, how do you like to dial in your pivot? Just got my first shiro, a 95fl and Im so happy, I was playing with adjustments yesterday and found that thitening all the way and then maybe 1//8” loose was the perfect feel for me. maybe it could be smoother, any tips would be much appreciated, thanks

Luis
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I think you've found the key to getting a Shiro just how you like it by "playing with adjustments." I usually do almost the same as you; I tighten the pivot to the point where it is noticeably slow to open but not over tightening it. Then I slowly loosen it, flip it open check for side-to-side play and repeat the process, sometimes retightening it slightly going from there.
 
Grandmaster said:
Hey guys, sorry to bother you, I’ve looked everywhere and couldn’t find where to post this question, so here it goes, how do you like to dial in your pivot? Just got my first shiro, a 95fl and Im so happy, I was playing with adjustments yesterday and found that thitening all the way and then maybe 1//8” loose was the perfect feel for me. maybe it could be smoother, any tips would be much appreciated, thanks

Luis
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Just as CPP CPP said.

I tighten mine to where the pivot will no longer tighten with light pressure. Then I flip the knife back to the desired action over the span of a day or two as I'm using it.

My Shiros never have poor action, always excellent. That being said, there's definitely a sweet spot. This ever elusive micro mm that lets the blade fly freely and drop shut with grace, not like a guillotine.

I don't like to loc-tite as I use my knife so frequently that lint build up and debris forces a cleaning once a month or so. I hate having to pull out the heat gun to break the loc-tite. Shiro has a spinning pivot vs a captive one, which makes even the weak blue loc-tite a problem and forces the use of a heat gun to break it. I have tried every other alternative.

Because of this, I just readjust the pivot once a week or so. Can usually do it with the edge of a BS credit card or something. While it might seem like a hassle, you could always just loc-tite. I enjoy maintaining my tools so for me I'd prefer just that.
 
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thanks guys, is it me or the knife works great with the pivot snug all the way, just outta tradition I turned it just a tad to the other side and it works great, since it was new I think it will get like butter with time
 
Grandmaster said:
thanks guys, is it me or the knife works great with the pivot snug all the way, just outta tradition I turned it just a tad to the other side and it works great, since it was new I think it will get like butter with time
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I think you've got it right, there. Some of my knives I can just tighten right down and they're fine, and some take just a taste backing off to find that sweet spot. And yes, Shiros, like all knives, need a break-in period before you can really dial them in. I don't like loctite either and prefer to just re-adjust the knife if it drifts a bit. Some, like my NeOn UL, get loose over time and some stay put. I can just readjust the UL with my thumbnail or a card as SeppukuSamurai SeppukuSamurai and it's good to go.

Eventually, I break them all down, clean, interior polish, and re-lube with NanoOil, then they fly open and drop shut until it's time to clean again.
 
SeppukuSamurai said:
Just as CPP CPP said.

I tighten mine to where the pivot will no longer tighten with light pressure. Then I flip the knife back to the desired action over the span of a day or two as I'm using it.

My Shiros never have poor action, always excellent. That being said, there's definitely a sweet spot. This ever elusive micro mm that lets the blade fly freely and drop shut with grace, not like a guillotine.

I don't like to loc-tite as I use my knife so frequently that lint build up and debris forces a cleaning once a month or so. I hate having to pull out the heat gun to break the loc-tite. Shiro has a spinning pivot vs a captive one, which makes even the weak blue loc-tite a problem and forces the use of a heat gun to break it. I have tried every other alternative.

Because of this, I just readjust the pivot once a week or so. Can usually do it with the edge of a BS credit card or something. While it might seem like a hassle, you could always just loc-tite. I enjoy maintaining my tools so for me I'd prefer just that.
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Try purple loctite. It was made for small fasteners like this and is the appropriate loctite to use. Or try a resin based thread locker.
 
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