The Fighting Knife

I'm Interested In all Military Style "Fighting Knive's" Dagger's and Trench Knive's well the FS was a Trench Knife design close quarter's up close In the Trench's, I also like Military Style Survival Knive's, And another one I really liked In a Fighting Knife was the WW I Knuckle Knife "That Was A Great In the Trench's of WW I & WW II Fighting Knife" But were talking about In this Topic the Fairbairn Sykes, When ever your ready Christof and get caught up, I know your a Busy Man at getting caught up In Order's, But I'd love to see a Koyote Custom Knive's FS rendition, I also like the Old Style Knife Rotte mentioned the Mountain Man style Dagger of the Fur Trade Era, I think this one from R Appleby caught the Blade Style Perfectly to a Real Close Rendition of the Mountain Man Dagger In his Bear Knife, , This has a 6 3/8" Blade, 3/16" Thick, 1 1/2" Broad Double Hollow Ground Spear Point Blade, I'd like to see a Koyote Custom Knive's Rendition In The Old Time Mountain Man Style Dagger that was a main Carry Weapon & Tool In the Fur Trade era, What do you think of the Blade design In this Bear Knife Dagger Christof ? I know you could make a Koyote Rendition In this Style of Dagger In Ipe Wood Scale's and a Forged Finish Blade and a Koyote Girl Sheath "I Can See It Already, Wooo-Weeee !

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I have small to mediun sized hand's and the Handle design of my "V-42 Copy" fit's my Hand perfectly for a Very secure Grip, This Knife as my Friend described was designed to be Surgicaly placed from the Back up along the Spinal Cord and through the Heart from behind, Also up in to the Base of the Scull from behind up In to the Brain, And also with It's slim blade width though the Rib Cage In to the Vital's "Lung's & Heart", Not Every Fighting Knife Is designed as an all purpose Fighter, Like Rotte said In a Real Knife Fight give me a Big Blade I really like my Cold Steel Trail Master Bowie and It will dismeber limb's very easily, Look at the British Smatchet It was a Very Deadly Knife In the Trench's of War,

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I was looking at the B.R.K.T. Mountain Man Dag and I really like the style of that Blade also, It's a little short but a "Great Design" ! I'm Ready for a Koyote Knive's Rendition of the Early Fur Trade Mountain Man Dagger ! In Ipe Wood Scale's with a Forged Finish and a Full Double Edge, 1/8" Thick, 6 1/2" Long, 1 1/2" Wide "I Can See It Already" !
 
aw, man. I sold it!!! I had a 9 inche heavy handles walnut beauty. But I sold it at the gun show.....
 
koyote said:
aw, man. I sold it!!! I had a 9 inche heavy handles walnut beauty. But I sold it at the gun show.....
Click to expand...

Where's the picture's ? You know I like Big Blade's ! What do you Think about a Mountain Man Style Dagger In the Future ? I Think It would be a Great addition to your Line of Koyote Custom Knive's ! :thumbup:
 
I want to mention a recent blade I did that is going to come out as a staple of my stuff, I think.

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I've been thinking about fighting knives and whaling on my pell (a training dummy of sorts) and considering some reading I've been doing. Synchronically, TK came out with a good article on targets for a knife in a fighting situation and the actual bleedout times for arterial cuts.

For larger knives, over 5 inches, I still prefer the wasp waisted ot narrow triangular profile, single or double edge. I prefer a somewhat more stout tip, for various reasons.

The Sgian Dubh project and another custom self defense knife I've done (small horizontal belt carry) started me thinking, and the idea of near surface targets really clarified my goals. I still have issues with the ability of a very small blade- 3 inches or so- to make a tendon cut cleanly in a fight. Possibly this is a training issue more than anything. You are still going to need to go through clothing and down 3/4 or an inch to reach something, and that's hard.

Still and all, this recent spearpoint design is primarily done as a field utility knife, but I considered some self defense aspects in it. the placement of the dropped edge (notice how the sharpened edge is decently away from that) and the thumb ramp work well for a karambit style grip, a standard fist grip is comfortable and secure stabbing maple logs. And it doesn't look like a mall ninja special. At 8 inches, it's probably the most compact "big knife" I've made.
 
Nice looking utility knife. Does it have a name? I'm a fan of the drop edge, and I like the way you've provided a little protection for the index finger--good idea. Spear point is as sturdy as it comes--another good idea.

When you say Karambit grip, are you thinking of a reverse grip? Pic?
 
Ah, that one is in the mail to someone, photos of the grip tomorrow on a blank. Standard icepick is a sraight fist, karambit seems to ... flow a bit more diagonally. The base of my palm sits slightly lower than my pinky in a reverse grip, the thumb ramp helps with that
 
and.... I haven't really named it, but I'm already making more (and working on orders, never fear)- so I will have to name it.

the spear point is ridiculously strong on that one.
 
I read a small book about prison "knife" fighting. The essence was get a firm grip--probably icepick--surprise your opponent, and stab visciously until dead. Preferably your opponent, not you. Really made it sound like technique was not a consideration as much as the will to kill your opponent in the most brutal of ways.

While martial techniques certainly can sound impressive, this straightforward, keep stabbing 'til it's over approach had a ring of truth to it.

I don't know sh!t about it.
 
I think there's a lot of truth to it. Aggression and no hesitation- yet, having the proper tools and training might make a difference. It does seem to the the basic idea behind the modern infantry.

If you are stuck not sneaking up, and you've drilled even 2 strikes (front kick, reverse punch!) over and over and over, you have an advantage - as long as you have the aggression!

So I think the idea of considering SD in a knife design works with that.

Take a broomstick in an icepick grip, mark the bottom of the pinky knuckle closest to the tip, repeat with the heel of your hand. The heel of your hand is probably a lot lower. Now add a slight curve to the grip. :)
 
Any more thought about a A-F derivative type dagger? I hesitate to ask because it's one of those knives I'd end up buying but never using. One hopes anyway....

The small spearpoint is much, much more likely to be on my belt and is therefore infinitely more practical. After all, the best knife is the one you have with you. ;)
 
I'm working on it, indeed. I've decided it needs to have some slashing ability, so I'll likely go with a slightly broader point and a full convex grind. I'm debating a wasp waist, which will be massivley time intensive to do right, though it allows for making a strap cutter or partial serrations - not normally my thing, but this isn't a slicing knife.

I'm still debating the full tang versus hidden tang. I think full tang will be much better for strength, and I can still fit a guard and a buttcap and peen the tang. or do an integral guard and leave the rear of the tang exposed for striking.
 
I'll probably do at least one integral guard and full tang version to see.

I'm honestly still not completely sold on the symmetric stilletto style thing. I tend to think that a slightly broader triangle shape with a partial doulbe edge is going to work better. But at some point it's not a FS anymore :D
 
Specifically in answer to the issues with the Gerber Guardian, I'm working on the Zog nit.

(google zog nit keynmol for what the name of the knife refers to)

Design considerations:

1 inch broad blade of 1/8 inch 1080 steel (I may go for a AEB-L steel type later). The breadth of the blade allows for a realistic edge geometry that will actually cut, unlike some other small backup blades.

convex double edge grind with a small thumb riding space on the off edge. While not a utility knife, it's a knife, and the slight thumb area allows for a bit more utility. convex grind increases overall blade and edge strength.

Handle is not scaled down, like on the guardian. It's thinner than I'd do for a full size knife, but not too thin, and not too narrow. slight reduction in breadth near the hilt for gription. The butt is well rounded for the palm heel.

7 inches, with a 3 inch blade:

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An interesting little knife. I like the fact that it's a partial double edge, which is uncommon in a blade that small. The full convex grind makes for pleasing contours. The filework on the thumb rest area is a good idea; I might be inclined to dish it a little as well. In a last-ditch situation, there's no such thing as too secure a grip. I'd probably round off the heel of the grip a little more to let it sit a little more snugly into the heel of the hand, but that's a matter largely of individual fit.
 
I thought about dishing in the thumb rest area, too. I'd need to pull the edge forward about a quarter inch to make it work- and since they are all hand made I can do that :)

On thing I've though about is getting out the really slim files and ridging the handle and tang a bit. I've seen it done but haven't messed with it on one of my own knives yet.

Doing relatively symmetrical knives like this purely by hand is hard, though it gets easier as I do. I'm going to try out a larger one when I can. going a bit broader - 1.25 or even 1.5, and pulling out a 5 or 6 inch blade. At the 6-7 inch range I am going to have to work with a press fit guard. Full guard and full tang, I think.
 
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