- Joined
- May 13, 2009
- Messages
- 193
I am pretty sure thats the same. I say go for it!
I'm a bit confused on the purpose of the pumice. is it acting as a superfine hand rub type abrasive, or does it react with the etch in some other way. Above, Stacy states " Every one makes a slightly different effect and look. The coarser, the frostier the look. The finer, the shinier. Some leave a darker surface, and others a whiter shine."
It's not reacting with the etch. The changes in appearance that Stacy is referring to are how the various compounds change the surface profile of the knife and therefore how it reflects light. They're not actually changing any color of the steel (outside of removing oxides). But there is more to their effect than simple grit size, there is also how sharp or free cutting a compound is, how hard a compound is, etc, and all these variables leave their own slight variation to the surface finish and how it reflects light back to the observer.
I am pretty sure thats the same. I say go for it!
id like to hear you guys's input on the "pattern" (for lack of a better word) of the clay application.
Recently i have been thinking about doing an experiment one blade with the clay applied in x'es down the blade, then an application more constant but with a wavy edge and the last one i would like to try a "splatter" pattern.
It's available at a Lee Valley too, as Shane pointed out. It's ordered, and I'll pick it up Saturday when I go into town.
The thickness of the application and the continuity of the application and the size/mass of the blade make almost as much difference as the pattern the clay is applied. I cannot for the life of me figure out how guys like Will Morrison are getting such fine little "crows feet." Whenever I try fine detailed application like that, I get nothing. I also have a hard time getting any activity on smaller blades. I've recently had two complete failures with small, thinner blades, one 1075 and one W2. They're just hard all the way through, like they quenched too fast even through the clay.
In your one example, a wavy edge, what I have found is that where the edge dips, if you taper the application of clay thickness with the dip, that's where you'll get more of the cloudy transition between the hard steel and soft steel.
But I also have a multitude of blades that absolutely did not follow the clay application whatsoever.
FWIW I have only used Satanite as my clay, and I quench everything in Parks 50.
There is a similar product I've seen people use here as well. Even mixing it with satanite. I'll give it a try.
I think rottenstone is what we want Warren. 4F pumice is 600 grit equivalent from what I can see online. Rottenstone is finer.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20058&cat=1,190,43040
I bought this , maybe it is even better from silicone ? I have 1095 but I do not have the right oil to try :grumpy:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Temp...dge-1500-C-Better-Than-Silicone-/111511443337