The Swamp Rat Free Rein 28 . . . Coming Sunday, January 14, 2024, At 9:00 PM Eastern

adluginb said:
The same thing I went through 15 years ago when I bought my first sword. That sword has been in my closet for 15 years and has never seen the sun light.

But you know what? I wanted the damn thing so I got it. May even go touch it before I go to bed.
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I think it’s time. Bring that bad boy outside today. Even if only for some sunlight.
 
MattinLA said:
My Rodent Rucki has spent many years as a champion palm tree frond killer. The Rucki has earned it's keep through Many Tactical Gardening deployments.
The FR28 will usher in a New Age of Backyard Shenanigans 😉🤘🍺🍺
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Wish, I had palm trees here. They would all be dead this morning as it is MINUS 29 right now 😲
 
Cobalt said:
Wish, I had palm trees here. They would all be dead this morning as it is MINUS 29 right now 😲
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BRKm1QP.jpeg
 
Busto said:
What actually takes place is called: Pickling or Passivation....a process to remove "Iron" contaminants on the surface introduced during manufacturing, machining of the parts. What you see as rust spots are the Iron Oxides in or on the surface. This process was introduced to treat Stainless Steels that see Oxygen in highly flammable service situations.....Which is what happened on Apollo 3 that burned up on the launch pad killing 3 astronauts.

The Acid actually eats the Iron to remove it from the surface...depending on the size of the article it's a 15-20 minute soak in Nitric 25-45%/Water Bath.
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The Knife Life said:
The iron being removed isn't from the "tooling bits", it's native in the steel itself (of the blade).

Passivation reacts with this surface level of iron and removes it leaving behind a passive surface of Chromium oxides which resist corrosion much better than free iron, hence the reason it's done.

If the surface of the steel becomes damaged, you will have to passivate again to deal with the iron now exposed in the damaged area.

Most modern tooling bits used these days to mill the steel are sintered carbide, not steel, which have extreme wear resistance and really won't be leaving any iron in the object being machined anyways. Even if it was HSS like a common drill bit, the amount of iron it may leave on a knife is negligible and only on the surface if it were to break off (unless you crash the machine and really bury that sucker in your work piece, then it can really be embedded in there! Lol). The amount exposed in the freshly machined knife blade is a part of the blade steel itself and is far greater than anything coming out of the machining cutters.
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Have either one of you tried this with an 8% Cr steel? Just wondering how effective passivation is on a chipper steel with 8% Cr. I am going to assume it can't be done with SR101 or 77.
 
Cobalt said:
Walmart sells the 70% nitric. I am going to try it on one of my SHBM's. Or maybe the Rat Daddy LE
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Since you're not dealing with Stainless, I would use Ferric Chloride, works much better on those SHBM or Rat Daddy...However it's not as easy to dispose of as the acid. Perhaps I was not clear on the usage of Acid vs Ferric Chloride....Acid works best on Stainless and my best results on SR-101 or S7 was Ferric. Sorry for the Confusion.
 
Busto said:
Since you're not dealing with Stainless, I would use Ferric Chloride, works much better on those SHBM or Rat Daddy...However it's not as easy to dispose of as the acid. Perhaps I was not clear on the usage of Acid vs Ferric Chloride....Acid works best on Stainless and my best results on SR-101 or S7 was Ferric. Sorry for the Confusion.
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You gotta wonder though. I would leave out my old SHBM's in the yard stuck to a log and it would rain and no rust would develop. I am thinking because the old INFI has 2% more alloying elements than modern INFI that it may actually behave more like a stainless and passivation can be done.
 
Can you still purchase day after thanksgiving credits? Insert drunken smiley face here.
 
boring said:
I don't recall them doing that before. Either they are hurting for money or 3v costs a lot more than infi did.
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boring said:
Hard to believe, a res c handle, non infi blade is hitting close to 1k
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Couple of things to give it the cost. Busse has been getting it's INFI steel for decades in large quantities. 3v is probably being purchased in small runs and that will make it considerably more expensive. Then you look at the size of that sword and that is a lot of steel. The only way for the cost to come down is for Busse to start making more stuff out of 3v., thereby getting a better deal. I'm fine with that. :thumbsup:
 
Also isn’t 3v much harder to grind and shape? All the work that goes into “delta 3v” this is in my opinion essentially the same stuff. I see this as a steal. An 18 inch lightweight sword-chete with an insulated shock absorbing handle that’s water proof, chemical proof etc. PLUS the warranty??…. God help me not get three.
 
Jack of All Blades said:
Also isn’t 3v much harder to grind and shape? All the work that goes into “delta 3v” this is in my opinion essentially the same stuff. I see this as a steal. An 18 inch lightweight sword-chete with an insulated shock absorbing handle that’s water proof, chemical proof etc. PLUS the warranty??…. God help me not get three.
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I really think you should get three. One for display, one to use, and another to use while yours goes to the shop to get polished out.
 
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