Off Topic Thick vs Thin Knife...

Thick/Thin


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Would depend on the length of the blade, among other things I'd imagine. Is 0.2" thick for a 2" steak knife? Is 0.5" too thin for a 8"+ machete?

I prefer thicker blades on folders (around 3.5") and thinner blades on fixed blades (4"+).
 
This is why Sebenzas still lead the way in being the knife that others are compared to. Perfect balance of everything. Good blade length to handle ratio, thick blade yet thin over all feel and ergos. Makers should try and copy them, LOL!
 
This is why Sebenzas still lead the way in being the knife that others are compared to. Perfect balance of everything. Good blade length to handle ratio, thick blade yet thin over all feel and ergos. Makers should try and copy them, LOL!
I've noticed those are very popular, even my firearm dealer has one and he takes it out any chance he gets lol
 
And, in all seriousness, is there some reason why you would be forced to choose only one of the two? o_O
 
Do you have some other tool available like an axe or a crowbar?
Well that would be obvious wouldn't it? A thick axe & crowbar , they are both used for hard use
Do you find they slice well enough for you?
they slice pretty good but
I actually find the thin knives to be easier using my spyderco aqua salt but if I had to put my life on the line ide prefer a thick blade every time..
 
I actually find the thin knives to be easier using my spyderco aqua salt but if I had to put my life on the line ide prefer a thick blade every time..

Then excellent. I don't find my life (or anyone else around me) is on the line a great majority of the time, but if it was, I guess a solid argument could be made for "thick."

Unless one's life was on the line in the woods, where "thin" would probably more effective, in my opinion. Though in that case I would probably have a folding saw on me.
 
Thin-ish, I carry a single piece tool for prying. Right tool for the right job.
 
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I based my answer (thin middle) on my apple-slicing. I have some real heavy-duty apples (well...maybe) and it takes a good knife to go thru them. I have several well-know "thin" fixed blades (primarily flat ground) that don't even come close to the efficiency of my Sebenza hollow-ground blade. No contest. With about the same stock thickness, my Sebbie is much thinner, measured at ~ 1/2" up from the edge.
These knives are NOT designed for slicing apples, although all can serve that purpose. Several of these blades are much more capable for heavy-duty tasks than others. The blade-steels differ widely. The blade-lengths vary from about 2 3/4" to 3.5".
I guess that the important parameter here is that the HOLLOW-GROUND blade design may serve a great purpose.

Of course, everybody says "Geometry is everything." And they may be right.

Note the following:
Knife: Large Sebenza: spine 0.120" BTE 0.025" ~1/2" up from edge 0.052"
Bradford Guardian 3 spine 0.140" BTE 0.024" ~1/2" up F.E. 0.090"
Survive Knife 3.5 spine 0.125" BTE 0.025" ~1/2" up F.E. 0.085"
BHK spine 0.120" BTE 0.032" ~1/2" up F.E. 0.070"
LT Wright Lil Muk spine 0.120" BTE 0.027" ~1/2" up F.E. 0.085"
 
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I think that CRK Sebenzas have it down right and so do the Spyderco Militarys and para 2. All those fat heavy blades (remember how popular Hinderer, Strider ect used to be?) just get passed around a lot and resold.. They just don't cut well and the idea of having a $400 pry bar to screw up is just not logical unless you are deserted on an island like the movie Castaway with Tom Hanks. And how often does that happen?
 
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