v4 EDC Prototypes Passaround

Here is the funny thing, When I compare it to the Busse Game Warden, the handle seems gi-normus really huge at first glance, but when you actually put them side by side, it is actually only like a half of an inch longer (just eyeballing it). It really is not significantly longer. It just feels nice and comfy in the hand, with a full 5 finger grip.

I am at work right now, without a camera, but the knife is sitting on the desk....I wonder if there is any mail to open up, or paper that needs slicing.

I know some of the pics are blurry, and none of them are great, but I will take more later (of the same dubious quality).
 
I received the Verawood passaround knife today from Martin. I will show a few comparison pics of it and V3 which i was lucky enough to score earlier. There are several subtle differences although I like them both so far.
IMG_0891.jpg


The blade on the passaround knife is about 1/16th wider than V3.:thumbup::thumbup:
IMG_0892.jpg


The handle on V3 is about 1/16th wider than the passaround knife. V3 also has liners.:D
IMG_0893.jpg


The Verawood knife does not have a grinders notch either. :thumbup:
IMG_0895.jpg


One of the best attributes of these EDCs is Dan's sheath. It is thin enough to just slide in a pocket when a belt knife isnt appropriate.
IMG_0896.jpg


I will have more pics and comparisons later.
 
Cool....even more great pics!!!


Yes, I have moved away from the "sharpening choil" on the blade. On an EDC....you want to be able to "glide" through materials...and not have any hang-ups. Don't get me wrong...I like the little choils on other knives...and even mostly on this one. But I do agree it is better without it.

I am liking the kydex loop sheath more and more each day....:D

Dan
 
Wow.. this topic is Hot now.. :D:thumbup:


My Findings:..

Most of my First impressions became true in reality except for one.
I definitely like the bladeshape of the red knife more.

First a small apology for being a bit late, and being short on pics.. but a lot of working pics were taken with the camera of a colleague, and after waiting for over week for him to send them over by e-mail he managed to erase them while trying to transfer them to his pc.. So I only have a few I took at home. I am so XX sorry.


The initial sharpness was adequate for my edc jobs, so I did no touching up.
I carried the knives one after another for a whole week and used them during tasks I usually do with my leatherman, my sebbie, my hobbyknife, or my ‘knife of the day’ (think Bushie, Fällkniven NL-5, F-1, Hairy Carry or Bravo-1) This means cutting tiewraps. Cutting sheets of colorgel, as used in the lighting industrie. Cut parts of my lunch (including a hot dog with mustard and ketchup, which quickly formed a nice patina), cut open some boxes and packages, work with leather and kydex. Cutting sticks in the woods, poking coins out of crooked slots etc.

-Cutting cardboard was a breeze. It wedged in denser (dense is the word) types of cardboard thoo.
-tiewraps snapped open in a breeze. The tip was fine enough, and the edge thin enough to cut them very efficiently. No wriggling or prying needed. (I had pics of these!). Need to be carefull tho, as the edge is one to be carefull with to keep it in shape.
-Buttering a sandwich, and cutting the ingredients felt never so comfortable and inspiring to eat more.
-I cut a couple of branches of my grape-tree (how do you call them?), and it was smooth as it could be.

When going in the outdoors for more then a day I will certainly take a bigger knife with me, and in my bob I’d like something more big too. So for me it’s more a around the house, going to work type of knife, But I sure would like one like this for that.

I enjoyed the knifes a lot and felt privileged to have the only side by side comparison. It will certainly fit in my edc rotation when made of a really high-end stainless steel (but a bit lesser high-end will do just fine, but make it stainless).



The handle
Is very comfortable in many positions and needs no change whatsoever imo.
The guard could be a little smaller to my taste, to allow more control during finer work. Also the thin tip is obvious not made to stab or pry with, so a small guard will suffice.
I prefered the feel of wood. The G-10 felt to slippery. Micarta would be even better.


The steel
For this kind of knife I would suggest to use a stainless, or almost stainless, steel with excellent edge-holding capabilities, like CPM S90V etc.


The grind
Is superdooperwhooper. It’s the kind of edge that cuts even when blunted a bit, like an opinel, sak or mora. In dense types of cardboard they do tend to wedge, so why not have a thinner stock, but keep the same grind. The flat parts on this sabre grind will also easier allow for sharpeningsystems that use clamps, like the Lansky, to be used. This is no prybar, right?


Thickness
I think 0.15’ will be very adequate for a slicer like this.. Keep the grind.


Weight
I did like the lighter one more. The tapering is a nice touch of quality, but I could do without.
I don’t need the sensation of weight to feel this is a serious tool that is up to hard cutting.


Sheaths
Are very nice and will do the job well, but I do think you’ll have to invest in a decent rivetpress Dan. Split rivets are not.. euhh.. worthy?
Personally I’s like a sheath with a thinner profile, and a clip maybe, which I could comfortable slip in any of my pockets.


Finaly the pics

The Hard Use Stuff!!
I tried to baton it, but didn’t succeed, cause It slices like a laser, and fell right through the medium..
Kosterproto10.jpg



Cutting Old Cheese is hard, as the edge tends to dig in and wedge to a halt
Carefull shavings are very well possible though.. Yummy!
Kosterproto11.jpg



The fine tip (The tip IS fine Dan. It’s as fine as my Leek ;-)) cuts like a Hobbyknife, but so much more comfortable. Here’s where more edgeholding would be a pro.
Kosterproto12.jpg



It’s with the finer work where the Red one is more comfortable.
Also on the job, cutting thick tiewraps holding cables round steel tubes, the thinner point is easier to squeeze in a small opening. The thin edge is great, and very much suited for this kind of whittling.
Kosterproto13.jpg

It’s also better suited for scraping away the goo below your toe nails. It’s a good thing you washed them down Fatty.. J


After 2 weeks of use.. a quick wipe-up, and restoring initial sharpness..
Let’s go stainless with this one please..
Kosterproto14.jpg



Hope it helps..
It was a nice experience, and thank you for letting me, as a European, in on it.

Cheers,
Can’t wait what the other guys have to say..
martin
 
The stainless argument is a good one. CPM 3V is a great alternative to stainless...but I definitely agree that making it stainless makes it even "more EDC-friendly". A knife you truly don't have to worry about.

I'd rather do CPM 154 than S90V or S30V....both of which are harder to sharpen. I want to keep an easy-to-sharpen/polish steel if I'm going stainless.




Thanks for the review and great pics!

Dan
 
Although I have never used CPM 3v, I think that would be my choice for this one. For additional edge retention (if I remember that is it's strong point). And I seem to remember some one saying it was the perfect steel for these sized blades (I think that was you Mr. Koster).

I will say this about the 5160 that the knife is made of, it sure strops back to hair popping sharp in just a few passes on the strop bat. But I think it also looses the Hair popping sharpness quicker than the "super" steels.

Still liking the red handled beauty. I did a number on some bagels and cream cheese here at the office today!
 
If you live in the south you have to be familiar with rutebagas,not sure about the rest of the country. My wife always call for me to peel and cut them up for her. They can be tough.:mad: I am always scared to use a very thin chefs knife and usually resort to a boneing knife.
Enter the Koster EDC proto!!:) It naturally could have been a little longer for this task but other than that it was a champ. The handle was extremely comfortable and enabled me to put a lot more force into the cuts than a chefs knife.:thumbup: The full flat grind didnt allow any pieces to stick to the blade. With the swedge on top this blade appears thin but it isnt. The EDC cuts extremely well from the belly out to the tip which is very helpfull to me in the kitchen.:thumbup:
In my opinion this knife begs to be carried camping and used by the camp chef. I think Dan already tested V1 like that.
I will have more pics later.
IMG_0897.jpg

I just noticed in this pic that the kydex discolored the handle during heating.:(
IMG_0899.jpg
 
that just might be dirt...:foot:

Try rubbing it down with some 0000 (superfine) steel wool. That should restore the finish.

:thumbup:


Great pics!

Dan
 
Although I have never used CPM 3v, I think that would be my choice for this one. For additional edge retention (if I remember that is it's strong point).

Edge retention under impact is one of the strongpoints of CPM 3V. It will not easily chip, but rather dent. a bit like infi. Not excactly what you specifically need in a knife like this. There are steels out there with much better edgeholding capabilities for the 'normal' tasks the average edc has to deal with like CPM S90V or even CPM S30V.
But I'd rather have it in 12C27 then CPM 3V. That one won't rust, and takes a finer edge more easily (and will lose it faster also). But I agree on CPM 154. If that gets a treat like Emerson or Microtech master it, it will be hard to beat edgeholdingwise..
If it has to be carbon I'd choose D-2 with CPM 3V 2nd.

Great pics guys!
 
I'm waiting to order one of these. I love the functional look of them. I'm a sucker for small EDC's...but I'd really rather have one in S3V. I like my knives to show some 'character' and I think S3V is a good steel. Not that there's anything wrong with 154cm or D2 or O-1, I've just grown to like S3V recently. And though I haven't handled one, I like the look of the full sized handle. Handles are often given second consideration; but the handle is so important in a useful knife.

My $0.02 -- FWIW.
 
Last edited:
Well, sent the Red handled proto on to the next guy. What a sad moment that was.

Some more pictures, and some last thoughts.

I really liked this knife. I found my self holding it just to feel the handle.

The jimping on the back of the blade was nice, Did not feel too sharp for the thumb. I would like to see the jimping stay where it is, but also add some more jimping behind it, ad some more further down.

The tip was super sharp and pointy. I really like the look of the swedge grind. I would maybe like to see the grind stop a little before the tip, just to leave a bit more meat. I must say that the thinner tip was really helpful for piercing, and poking stuff.

I would like to see a version with a bit more blade height. That would give some more belly (ooh, how about a tiny Nessmuck profile blade, same length with that handle?????). But that said, I really like the blade shape on this one. It made the tip easier to control for detailed slicing. I also found that when I was whittling/shaping wood with it, the narrower blade profile allowed me to change the angle of the shave I was taking off. The blade shape was very efficient at slicing. I really like the the 1/4 inch spine. I would not change that part.

I am excited to get the other version with the tapered handle just to contrast it with this one.

I am glad to say I did not break the tip off (I was worried at first).

However, I did manage to dent the handle scale on one side (at least I think I must have done it). I don't remember hitting anything with it, but I noticed it when I had it out the second day in better light. I took a picture just so show my shame! At least that proves I was using it.

IMG_1588.jpg

IMG_1581.jpg

IMG_1580.jpg

IMG_1579.jpg

IMG_1578.jpg

IMG_1567.jpg

IMG_1565.jpg
 
Thanks for the additional pics!!!


If the tip breaks...I'll reconsider the grind...but for now..I really like how it tapers..nothing worse (imho) than a thick knife that cuts like a wedge, instead of a razor.





What do you guys think of a double grind? I'll still have a full flat grind...but then come back afterwards and take the 'swedge" all the back to the ricasso. Kinda like a spearpointish-swedge...it would only go down about 1/5th the way down.

Dan
 
Would such a swedge compromise the jimping? or surface area available to place one's thumb for additional pressure/control?

It might look nice to have a slight swedge all the way back, but would it be at the cost of functionality?

Just speculatin'
 
not necessarily...I could end the grind right at the start of the thumbgrooves. I could also "blend the grind back"....into the thumbgrooves...they would be "full width" at the beginning...and the slowly start to taper...leaving plenty to put your thumb against. Either way...


I think functionality would increase....because it would allow a thicker tip, but a more spear-point type....would keep it thick in the "middle". I don't know how else to describe it...I'll have to grind it to see it myself.

Dan
 
I appreciated your earlier comment about keeping the tip tapered to create a razor vs a wedge effect. Especially for a small edc. Are you reconsidering this because of concerns about the tip strength?
I really like my Busse Game Warden, it's just about indestructible and feels great in the hand. But I think it falls more into the 'wedge' category. A great knife, but a bit clunky at times. Your design here seems to allow for more delicate work with better piercing ability. If a longer swedge would allow you to strengthen the tip while retaining some of the delicacy it may be worth while, but just looking at the pics I can't see it. Dunno, I like the design as it exists. I'm very happy with your handle design-I don't think a small blade necessitates a small handle! But what the hell do I know?
 
I agree with Rotte.
I believe the thin grind and thin point is what makes this knife stand out. (next to the full-size handle ofcourse).
I don't see any added use for the swedge other then weight reduction (& looks), and I would rather achieve that by choosing a thinner stock. imo Better keep the spine full width to accomodate comfortable thumbplacement along the entire length of the spine.
 
I just want the knife to be bullet-proof...or as close as I can get. :D

I may change the thickness...depends on what thicknesses I can get CPM 154 in...*shrug*


If a longer swedge would allow you to strengthen the tip while retaining some of the delicacy it may be worth while

Yes - that would be the reasoning...


Dan
 
I would like to see pics of a longer swedge before ageeing or disagreeing. I really like the look of the topline on this knife now. I would like to see the thumbgrooves lengthened more toward the handles however. The Verawood model is headed to Heavy in Chicago in the morning.:thumbup:
 
So far I am very impressed by these prototypes and cant wait to see the final product.:D I sent the Verawood model to Heavy today.:thumbup:
IMG_0891.jpg
 
Thanks for keeping on top of this, guys! :thumbup:


Dan
 
Back
Top