Virtual BBQ - 2 Brick Forge WIP

Sam Salvati said:
Chuck I wonder if it'd be even better with a double pass through like you did on the one end?
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It's been discussed and we can't decide if it would improve the design or not. It would make it more difficult to apply the cement coating, but should keep the heat in better. I'll build one later and see. Of course, I'll use one of my Atlas forges since it's easier to remove the bricks. I should have that WIP up later today.
 
I'm finding this project very frustrating. NOBODY sells furnace cement of any sort around here. Sure, I could order some and pay for shipping... but getting it at a store just doesn't seem to be an option.
 
gregg nobody local knew "refractory cement" I had to start talking wood stove repair. I think this is comparable to what is discussed in this thread and have bought this at ace on this side of the state, this is the online listing for a 6 pack, I bought a single in the store but I find it hard to believe no one over there has it or something comparable. Let me know if you still can't find it over there lots of woodburners here so most places carry it and I could ship you some easily. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276016&cp=2568448.2627947.2627970.2627964
chris
 
Sam, neither Home Depot, nor Lowes, nor ACE carries the stuff. Tried all three.

Chris, I'm not looking for an $80 six pack. But even if I was I'd have to get it shipped to the store. It just isn't in the stores here.
 
It's a little ways away, but Monroe Fireplace Store on Hwy 2 in Monroe has a ½ gallon bucket of 2550° for $18.18 - 20% off.
You could try True Value, they stock a 2000° ½ gallon for $29.99. If not in stock, you can get it shipped free to Duvall True Value in Duvall.
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well, got some cement online, found a local place for the bricks and cut 2 of them in half already. Question: do I need a masonry (carbide) hole saw, or just a regular one? I'm stopping today at home depot to get the wires and screws.
 
If you got the right bricks, you simply need anything harder than your fingernail. You can use any hole saw, spade bit, or regular drill bit designed for wood. Some people are known to use a spoon from the kitchen to carve it out with.

PS I don't mean to imply that you NEED cement to make this forge. I use it to make the forge a little sturdier, but it will work fine without it.
 
How much steel can be heated semi evenly in this forge? As in will it work for say a 10" bladed bowie?

Thanks for any info.
 
zuluninja said:
well, got some cement online, found a local place for the bricks and cut 2 of them in half already. Question: do I need a masonry (carbide) hole saw, or just a regular one? I'm stopping today at home depot to get the wires and screws.
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If you didn't end up with "soft" firebrick you're going to need something sturdier that a regular hole saw.
I apparently ended up with "hard" firebrick and fragged a 2 1/2" hole saw before I got through a single brick.
Carbide hole saw attack to commence tomorrow....
 
Wondering where I could find some "soft" fire brick here in the st. louis area. Is it the same thing as soapstone?
 
Oddly enough there used to be a company called Evans & Howard Firebrick company in St. Louis and one called Laclede, not that this helps you in any way. If you check places that sell Wood stoves, they should have some or can lead you to somewhere, they should also have refractory cement. You want the soft, light bricks, not the hard, heavy ones. Although the dense ones will work, they will take longer to heat up and are much harder to work with. The softer bricks are made for use in gas kilns and have a better insulation value. Im not sure how soapstone would work but it is supposedly resistant to heat. Might be a little more expensive than firebrick though. There is a chimney place on St. Theresa Ave, you can try there, or Arnold Stove in Arnold.

Or like Stacy said...
 
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Started my 2BF today, should be ready to fire up in a few hours! I am really excited, because I just got a RR track anvil and soon a proper forge so I can forge knives bigger that 2" long and .040 thick!

Pics will follow soon...


-Xander
 
Over two years old, but a good thread.

Zaph now manufactures and sells a very improved version of his forge, now called the Atlas Forge. They are usually available in The Exchange, or contact him directly.
 
Gonna make this, found some bricks on eBay and the refractory cement at ace hardware in their "fire place" section where they keep the chimney sweep logs.
I'm making it a little different, I only drill out the port hole on the back and added an extra brick in the front so it acts as a door. I only stacked the bricks up and it works great. Now I gotta put it all together with the screen mesh and cover up a few leaks in between each brick.
Thanks for this thread!
 
Before you go too far with "making it a little different", post a few photos and/or sketches. There is a reason some things need to be the way they are. One thing you don't want to do is overly close up the forge.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Before you go too far with "making it a little different", post a few photos and/or sketches. There is a reason some things need to be the way they are. One thing you don't want to do is overly close up the forge.
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Only thing I didn't do is cut out the notch in the back and cut a brick in half and used it on the back and a door which I kept crack open... Just tested it out yesterday. I will post a picture once I get it all set up.
 
The pass through in the back works to let heat fill the chamber better. You'll get visible flame coming out the back and front if it's working properly. The difference is about 400° F cooler without the pass through. Thanks for bumping this, Stacy.
 
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