What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Only thing left to do with these three are making a Kydex sheath and putting the edge on. The two drop points are CPM-154 and the Wharncliff is AEB-L. All have canvas micarta w/ fiber liners pinned and epoxied. CPM-154 HT by Peters to Rc~59
AEB-L HT by Bos to ~61
As always critiques/comments are always appreciated.
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I haven't posted here since the attachments went away, but I'm better at imgur so here's a new hunter in 5/32" NitroV Leather and Elk. It's 9 1/8" OAL.
 
Ready for final sharpening. 7.5" camp knife. I'm starting to get the hang of grinding steel. AEB-L at approximately 62 HRC. For now this is just a hobby so not knowing the exact HRC is not a big deal, but that was the target hardness. I ground the blade too thin in the recurved section...so I made a slight recurve. The "curly maple" for the handle was found at Home Depot. I stained it with dark brown leather stain and finished with several coats of tung oil. It has some chatoyance. I really, really want a good Rockwell tester to step up my game.

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J Lensmire said:
Only thing left to do with these three are making a Kydex sheath and putting the edge on. The two drop points are CPM-154 and the Wharncliff is AEB-L. All have canvas micarta w/ fiber liners pinned and epoxied. CPM-154 HT by Peters to Rc~59
AEB-L HT by Bos to ~61
As always critiques/comments are always appreciated.
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The flats at the choil look like they have scratches. Have you ever tried flattening the sides before putting the handles on. I use a magnet on one side so I can press the other side against the flat platten. One can go as high grit wise as
needed. Afterwards you just have to try not to touch that area again so it helps to finish that end of the handle material

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Forrest Taylor said:
The flats at the choil look like they have scratches. Have you ever tried flattening the sides before putting the handles on. I use a magnet on one side so I can press the other side against the flat platten. One can go as high grit wise as
needed. Afterwards you just have to try not to touch that area again so it helps to finish that end of the handle material

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I have not but thanks for the tip. I’ll definitely give it a try. That is one area that has always been tricky for me to get cleaned up and not lose my stamp. Lately I’ve been trying to clean up that area, to at least 400 grit, prior to stamping/ HT.
Thanks again.
 
I started doing rough grinding on the blade, then cleaning up the tang area parallel to the belt on the glass platen to A30 belts (Trizact Gators usually) and then do the final grinds on the blade. I electro etch my makers mark instead of stamping on the blade instead of the ricasso though. Cleaning up the flats on the tang/ricasso area and having them handrubbed after the A30 belt really makes the plunges look nice and crisp! Even a nice belt satin finish looks good there, too. I really struggled with that area for a bit to get it looking as clean as I liked.
 
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"I started doing rough grinding on the blade, then cleaning up the tang area parallel to the belt on the glass platen to A30 belts (Trizact Gators usually) and then do the final grinds on the blade."

Exactly.
If you do the final grinds on the bevel first, when you flatten the sides it can change the flat/bevel transition. Then you have to keep messing with it to make the bevels on both sides of the knife the same.
Like I said, I use a good sized magnet to hold the blank. Also sanding point down seems to work best. It flattens the sides and keeps from washing out or rounding off the grind line.
One could probably do this after the makers stamp. It will sand down the high spots pushed up by the stamp.

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Forrest Taylor said:
"I started doing rough grinding on the blade, then cleaning up the tang area parallel to the belt on the glass platen to A30 belts (Trizact Gators usually) and then do the final grinds on the blade."

Exactly.
If you do the final grinds on the bevel first, when you flatten the sides it can change the flat/bevel transition. Then you have to keep messing with it to make the bevels on both sides of the knife the same.
Like I said, I use a good sized magnet to hold the blank. Also sanding point down seems to work best. It flattens the sides and keeps from washing out or rounding off the grind line.
One could probably do this after the makers stamp. It will sand down the high spots pushed up by the stamp.

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Works great for epoxied scales but if you try that with removable scales you will have air gaps between them and the tang. Just an fwiw for anyone reading 🤷🏻‍♂️😁
 
I wanted a good Ruple jig for my slipjoints and I haven't seen any for sale on my side of the ocean. So I had to make my own.
I have a Deckel G1L pantograph with a new and twice as strong motor as the original. (550W vs. 250W) It still is a bit like painting a house with a toothbrush, but if that is all you have, that is what you have to do.
Including learning and starting over new it took me longer then I like to admit, but I'm happy with the result.

Time to make knives again!

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I was just thinking yesterday about how awesome it would be to have a pantograph
 
Seedy Lot said:
Ok this one might hurt some of your brains, LOL. Was making a set of knives for a client and messed up on scales and instead of starting over I just rolled with it.

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You've done this before?
Haha, not the messing up....but, the mixed scales? 😀
 
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