Recommendation? What's the best 2-grit field sharpener

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maximus83

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Nov 7, 2011
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Any recommendations from folks on this:
  • Your preferred 2-grit or 2-sided field sharpener.
  • Why

I've been using the DMT folding 2-side sharpener (coarse/fine) for some time, works fairly well but not fond of the feedback on the interrupted surface. Interested in a quality 2-sided stone, for example the forthcoming Spyderco Double-stuff 2 (which appears to have a nice coarse CBN side, and a medium ceramic side), or FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades two-sided field stone.
 
For THE MOST WORRY-FREE sharpener that'll work under literally any circumstance with any steel type, I'd stick with a two-sided diamond, or even a single-grit diamond hone in either Coarse or Fine (325-600). If your touch is good, the Coarse, all by itself, will handle anything that needs done, from major repair to touching up.

If the interrupted surface of DMT's Dia-Fold bothers you, EZE-Lap makes essentially the same type of folding double-sided hone, called an 'EZE-FOLD', but with a continuous surface diamond. I have one in a 400/1200 combination (what they call 'medium' and 'super fine'). I'd have no issues at all, in relying only on that combo, if I had to.

I tend not to favor ceramics anymore, just because they're more prone to burring, and necessitate more cleaning up of the edge after sharpening than with other hone/stone types. More bother than it's worth to me, as I can accomplish the same degree of sharpness on other equivalently fine hones in maybe 1/3rd the time, without all the burr cleanup issues.


David
 
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Obviously I like the Arctic Fox field stone for those purposes since I kind of designed it for that. It's small enough to be held in the hand and brought to the blade, or the other way 'round, and is designed to pair with a file for any woods blades that need truly heavy damage ironed out of them. The medium side will erase file marks and the fine side will easily bring you up to a hazy mirror finish that shaves.

I'd say that the Spyderco ceramics are too fine to use for anything but apexing, so they're good for light touchups to EDC knives, but less for really tackling any serious sharpening duties. DMT Diafolds etc. will work but I wish they'd come out with an extra-coarse/fine combo as I don't find the coarse side to actually be coarse enough for serious field duties once it's broken in a bit. Doing much bevel-shaping with it takes longer than I'd like, which is usually the more time-critical aspect if you experience dullness in the field. You're looking to get the edge back in usable shape and get right back to work, so speed is usually pretty important. You could then use the fine side to restore some degree of polish later, even if it would take longer than if you used the standard coarse stage in between.
 
I like a few things: the norton crystolon combi in 6 inch (easy to hold in one hand) but needs oil. The new Arctic Fox field stone, needs water (can be used dry). The DMT 6 inch "waterstone" with that blue base (dotted). You can use oil or water or very well dry as well which makes it a favourite. It is light and easy holdable in one hand with enough knuckle clearance! Maybe not so great for Axe or shovel work but for knife/chopper it us great. With the right touch no strop necessary.
 
I've got a sharpmaker just recently that I'm keeping in the car. My issue with that is the ceramic and high carbide steel is not a good idea. Not too bad in a pinch tho. Gonna get the cbn rods but costs are now going up a lot for a field sharpener.

I wanna say there's a recent thread on this. Please check the search, could be lots of helpful choices
 
Because I've had some recent success and just really enjoyed using 42's sharpening stones, I'm interested in his Arctic Fox field stone as well. Does anybody have feedback for field usage on whether it's better to use the puck style stone, or the standard rectangular layout? Looks like 42 has both, with the same grits. I've always used rectangular type stones for most things. I do have one of those cheap Lansky puck things, I'll admit it works awesome on big blades outside like mower blades, axes, shovels, and machetes, where there's light to moderate edge damage and I want to touch it up outside without using a bastard file. But I've never really considered using a puck for all-purpose field sharpening. Any input on that?
 
If you want to learn freehand sharpening,-- I would go with a Norton 2X6" combination India stone. You can have it delivered for 20$ and it can handle steels up to s30v. Plus, it will last a lifetime. Build a wooden case for it and put the swarf on the lid for a strop. I use mine for everything, including axe and shovels. DM
 
maximus83 said:
Does anybody have feedback for field usage on whether it's better to use the puck style stone, or the standard rectangular layout?
Click to expand...

There are, of course, more subtleties to it, but as a general rule...

Puck: Best on large blades, can be used on small.
Rectangular field stone: Best on small blades, can be used on large.
 
I'm sure the Arctic Fox would do well as long as the coarse side can eat steel. Norton's twin grit crystolon is a good one as well. Agreed, For the DMT to be in the pack it would need to be paired with the x-coarse and medium or fine. DM
 
David Martin said:
I'm sure the Arctic Fox would do well as long as the coarse side can eat steel. Norton's twin grit crystolon is a good one as well. Agreed, For the DMT to be in the pack it would need to be paired with the x-coarse and medium or fine. DM
Click to expand...

Unfortunately because I was using links to Facebook images the image links no longer work, but back when I was prototyping the pucks I posted a thread where I repaired a chewed-up edge on my Estwing rigger's axe with an extra-coarse double cut 16" (yes, 16"!) bastard file and was able to completely remove the deep file marks using only the coarse side of the stone. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
There are, of course, more subtleties to it, but as a general rule...

Puck: Best on large blades, can be used on small.
Rectangular field stone: Best on small blades, can be used on large.
Click to expand...

I'm not super experienced trying to field sharpen large blades, but the few times I've done it, the puck was definitely easier to hold on to and still be safe working around the blade (for me anyway).
 
David Martin said:
I'm sure the Arctic Fox would do well as long as the coarse side can eat steel. Norton's twin grit crystolon is a good one as well. Agreed, For the DMT to be in the pack it would need to be paired with the x-coarse and medium or fine. DM
Click to expand...

This is my inexperience with Norton stones--all I've ever used is the 6" economy ones you get at Home Depot or whatever, and recently added an 8"--but isn't it kind of a pain having to deal with an oil stone in the field? I find the prospect of either sharpening on a dry/catchy surface, OR having to lug oil along, not super appealing.
 
Field sharpening to me can mean many types of camping. From a rural cabin to a base camp near your pickup. In those situations I would have some type of rod or gun oil. I've also carried a piece of a broken stone with me during bow hunting and used water with it. DM
 
David Martin said:
Field sharpening to me can mean many types of camping. From a rural cabin to a base camp near your pickup. In those situations I would have some type of rod or gun oil. I've also carried a piece of a broken stone with me during bow hunting and used water with it. DM
Click to expand...

True, and a valid point. When I backpack I take a single needle dropper with 1 oz of my corrosionx gun oil, which is a light non-toxic oil with a mineral oil base and their "secret sauce" additives for the enhanced corrosion protection. I assume this would work on any stones that need oil. Similarly, I suppose I could take my light norton oil and just use it on everything (knives and guns), but in my experience, straight light mineral oil is not that great of a gun lube. Can work, but not great.
 
David Martin said:
I'm sure the Arctic Fox would do well as long as the coarse side can eat steel. Norton's twin grit crystolon is a good one as well. Agreed, For the DMT to be in the pack it would need to be paired with the x-coarse and medium or fine. DM
Click to expand...

This is interesting feedback on the DMT. I'm thinking they make a C/EC 2-sided folding sharpener, and also a F/EF (and a EF/EEF). Maybe the C/EC folder paired with one of those 2 would work. Bummer that now you'd have to carry 2 sharpeners if you go DMT. Geez, it seems like best options then are the Arctic Fox puck or field stone, or one of the 2-sided Norton oil stones.
 
With a puck I just dunk it in water when camping - I don't bother with oil. Is not ideal but it does a good enough job preventing plugging. I used to bring a small bottle of mineral oil dual use - a few drops on some duff or a cotton ball to help get the fire started and works well for sharpening.
 
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