What's the point to s90v when we have s110v?

I think s110v would make a great kitchen knife but it's not my favorite steel for a pocket knife
 
Nah, that's not what we look for in kitchen knives. Need higher matrix hardness and more edge stability. Not extreme carbide volume and lower matrix hardness.

S110v is best for sporting type knives in experienced hands with aggressive edge for lots of bite and endurance on hide and scales.


GermanyChris said:
I think s110v would make a great kitchen knife but it's not my favorite steel for a pocket knife
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blame it on god said:
In general use I doubt most people would notice the difference between the two. But sharpening S90v is easier. Not really easier to grind, but easier to deburr. S110v leaves a really stubborn burr. I've learned how to deal with it, But it took a serious look at what I was doing under a microscope to figure out. I've never dealt with anything so annoying to deburr.

But after that it's great. (s110v) I would buy either one again, But I do prefer S90v as a user steel.
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How do you deburr S110V, if I might ask?
 
GermanyChris said:
I think s110v would make a great kitchen knife but it's not my favorite steel for a pocket knife
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No, high carbide steels don’t take fine edges well and that’s what you really want in a kitchen knife. That’s why more simple steels like 52100 and VToku/super blue are great for kitchen knives. They don’t need really high wear resistance and it’s nice to have the super fine edge they can take to slice things with.
 
John_0917 said:
No, high carbide steels don’t take fine edges well and that’s what you really want in a kitchen knife. That’s why more simple steels like 52100 and VToku/super blue are great for kitchen knives. They don’t need really high wear resistance and it’s nice to have the super fine edge they can take to slice things with.
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While I didn't argue with DeadboxHero DeadboxHero I'll say this

I really don't want a fine edge in the kitchen I want toothy. In my experience s110v is great toothy there are others that may be better I've just not experienced them
 
Having s110v ukpk for my daily user for the last 6 months. Main uses at work involve cardboard and tie wraps.
I spend a lot of time sorting out chips. From a maintenance POV I wish I’d have stuck to bd1n.
 
GermanyChris said:
While I didn't argue with DeadboxHero DeadboxHero I'll say this

I really don't want a fine edge in the kitchen I want toothy. In my experience s110v is great toothy there are others that may be better I've just not experienced them
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Yeah, preference is king. I'd make a small chef out of it but it doesn't hold up to improper use and poor sharpening very good.

So it's mostly bad users not the steel that limits it. More folks could enjoy something like AEB-L with thin geometry because it's more forgiving.
Besides, it's geometry that is the most important performance factor.


I find the cost for a really thin (0.005"bte) and really hard (62-63RC+) puts it far out of the price range of normal folks. The raw materials aren't what kills me, it's the consumables.
I use s125v for very thin hunters.
 
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I've one knife in S90V. It's been good. My favorites are CTS-XHP, and S35VN. They are just very well rounded IMO. The only "premium" steel I dislike is S30V. And I loathe it.

I've become less enamored with super steels. Unless it's the only alternative to S30V or something worse.

Every steel has unique attributes.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Yeah, preference is king. I'd make a small chef out of it but it doesn't hold up to improper use and poor sharpening very good.

So it's mostly bad users not the steel that limits it. More folks could enjoy something like AEB-L with thin geometry because it's more forgiving.
Besides, it's geometry that is the most important performance factor.


I find the cost for a really thin (0.005"bte) and really hard (62-63RC+) puts it far out of the price range of normal folks. The raw materials aren't what kills me, it's the consumables.
I use s125v for very thin hunters.
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Out of curiosity, what percentage of kitchen knives and hunters do you make with S110V or S125V? The reason I ask is that I used to have some hunters by Phil Wilson that were amazing knives for sure, but I sold them because I just did not need that much knife. I don't process everyone's elk or deer during hunting season, just my own. I would think using S125V in a hunter is like bringing a tank to kill a fly for most folks, and hence the question.
 
on_the_edge said:
Out of curiosity, what percentage of kitchen knives and hunters do you make with S110V or S125V? The reason I ask is that I used to have some hunters by Phil Wilson that were amazing knives for sure, but I sold them because I just did not need that much knife. I don't process everyone's elk or deer during hunting season, just my own. I would think using S125V in a hunter is like bringing a tank to kill a fly for most folks, and hence the question.
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I consider it more like driving a Ferrari for a commute across town.

I keep it small. Not many can appreciate a steel like that for the reasons I said above.

I like the steel a lot with custom HT.

Really nice at 62-63rc rather then 60rc
 
Where are the claims of S90V being tougher and especially having better edge stability coming from? The only article, I’ve seen recently was Larrin’s article on niobium in steels https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/02/18/niobium-alloyed-knife-steels/ there he mentions that s110v has similar wear resistance at same hardness, better corrosion resistance and easier to reach higher hardness which would increase edge stability in general. Are there any other tests or studies showing otherwise? Both probably have very low toughness in comparison to other steels, but I can’t seem to find any data on edge stability.
 
To be honest it doesn't take much to get better than the chipster s110v. I keep it on me because advanced tooth engineering matrix extreme and the fact if yo to it exactly what you're supposed to do (meat, plastic, cardboard, fabric) it can work for a very very long time. One oopsie you have more flats than maxamet can ever get sitting on it. I know because I carry BOTH. There are new videos out there with the manix 2 s90v and more people are having success and enjoyment out of it, it's not test but anecdotal. Have to get michael christy on it.
 
Lower carbide volume means more stability

ace said:
Where are the claims of S90V being tougher and especially having better edge stability coming from? The only article, I’ve seen recently was Larrin’s article on niobium in steels https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/02/18/niobium-alloyed-knife-steels/ there he mentions that s110v has similar wear resistance at same hardness, better corrosion resistance and easier to reach higher hardness which would increase edge stability in general. Are there any other tests or studies showing otherwise? Both probably have very low toughness in comparison to other steels, but I can’t seem to find any data on edge stability.
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In theory could be true, but without testing and given different atainable hardness hard to say.
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
To be honest it doesn't take much to get better than the chipster s110v. I keep it on me because advanced tooth engineering matrix extreme and the fact if yo to it exactly what you're supposed to do (meat, plastic, cardboard, fabric) it can work for a very very long time. One oopsie you have more flats than maxamet can ever get sitting on it. I know because I carry BOTH. There are new videos out there with the manix 2 s90v and more people are having success and enjoyment out of it, it's not test but anecdotal. Have to get michael christy on it.
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That's the problem, anecdotal evidence. So I have s110v pm2 and I've never seen a chip in it and I use it hard. I have Spyderco south fork s90v never a chip in that. I've had some other knives in 420v (s90v) which chipped, so what does that tell us?
 
ace said:
That's the problem, anecdotal evidence. So I have s110v pm2 and I've never seen a chip in it and I use it hard. I have Spyderco south fork s90v never a chip in that. I've had some other knives in 420v (s90v) which chipped, so what does that tell us?
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The chips don't come from regular use, again it's if you exit your cut and slam in to something or us on a tough cutting board, or go alone glass, etc. I get flats on my s110v a lot (check my image for the hot spots), but less as I moved up to 20° a month and a half back. I'm wondering if I go even less aggressive will chips and flats will stop but I will still get the paper/plastic/cardboard job done well enough. Still my work knives are going to lc200n and s90v so that means slowing down with the s110v and Max instead of trying new things.

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