What's the point to s90v when we have s110v?

[DeadboxHero]

That's always the problem, people just use the knives differently.

Everyone argues Steel, HT, and geometry but it really just comes down to user use.

I just don't think s110v fits with your style of use.

That doesn't mean it's a bad steel.

Some folks are more methodical in use and prefer precison and should be rewarded with more edge holding rather then suffer with a steel designed to be "tougher" that blunts with cutting.

So it just depends on the user. Extreme steels have more extreme trade offs.

No free lunch with any steel.
Yet endless arguments about why something that works best for one user is better than something for a different user.


That's why finding a steel that has synergy with a particular use and user style is important.

The chips don't come from regular use, again it's if you exit your cut and slam in to something or us on a tough cutting board, or go alone glass, etc. I get flats on my s110v a lot (check my image for the hot spots), but less as I moved up to 20° a month and a half back. I'm wondering if I go even less aggressive will chips and flats will stop but I will still get the paper/plastic/cardboard job done well enough. Still my work knives are going to lc200n and s90v so that means slowing down with the s110v and Max instead of trying new things.

 

[MyLegsAreOk]

That's always the problem, people just use the knives differently.

Everyone argues Steel, HT, and geometry but it really just comes down to user use.

I just don't think s110v fits with your style of use.

That doesn't mean it's a bad steel.

Some folks are more methodical in use and prefer precison and should be rewarded with more edge holding rather then suffer with a steel designed to be "tougher" that blunts with cutting.

So it just depends on the user. Extreme steels have more extreme trade offs.

No free lunch with any steel.
Yet endless arguments about why something that works best for one user is better than something for a different user.


That's why finding a steel that has synergy with a particular use and user style is important.

Ye, that's why I'm bumping to s90v after this discussion and discovery. The ease of sharpening means I can do it at work with a few passes on the DMT HD 600/1200 and be back. I'll still get all the tooth of the 110 but can bring it back. LC2000N is because I need to work with fluids and outside sometime so I'll switch over.

 

[DeadboxHero]

Preference is king baby.

Ye, that's why I'm bumping to s90v after this discussion and discovery. The ease of sharpening means I can do it at work with a few passes on the DMT HD 600/1200 and be back. I'll still get all the tooth of the 110 but can bring it back. LC2000N is because I need to work with fluids and outside sometime so I'll switch over.

 

[Wowbagger]

What's the point to s90v

It's better.
Why is it better ?
It's just better.
Prove it !
It's the best.
I mean after all it came in my 940-1
Right ! ? !
So there you are; it's the best.


Seriously though :

S90v iirc has slightly more toughness and slightly better edge stability than s110v.

I was carrying and using my S90V 940-1 the last few days at work and comparing it to my experiences with S110V and I would have to agree.

It is a small difference. The 940s edge, at this minute, is a bit jacked. Just at the belly where I was using it the most. I have never experienced this level of edge damage / flattening / not sharpness on any one of my three M4 blades.
They VERY SLOWLY get a bit dull but never like this S90V blade on the 940 in my hand right now.

can get s90v to a much much more keen/low angle edge

I wouldn't agree with that. I have easily gotten three S110V blades to be polished and as hair whittling as any one of my other knives and I am all about a polished push cutting edge.
As everyone knows that is a waste of time with S110V because tomorrow it will be it's good old gritty / toothy edged self.

Maybe you / they mean S90V will stay polished and whittling longer.

 

[Wowbagger]

Having s110v ukpk for my daily user for the last 6 months. Main uses at work involve cardboard and tie wraps.
I spend a lot of time sorting out chips. From a maintenance POV I wish I’d have stuck to bd1n.

Ironically the link I went looking for is about S90V as well.
What I wanted to communicate is there are alloys that are more chippy but I actually prefer them and my work around so I can carry them.
LINK> > >
PS : I love my UKPK though ; I would never trade it for anything else.

 

[Wowbagger]

I was carrying and using my S90V 940-1 the last few days at work and comparing it to my experiences with S110V and I would have to agree.

It is a small difference. The 940s edge, at this minute, is a bit jacked. Just at the belly where I was using it the most. I have never experienced this level of edge damage / flattening / not sharpness on any one of my three M4 blades.
They VERY SLOWLY get a bit dull but never like this S90V blade on the 940 in my hand right now.

This edge when I bought the knife a year or so ago was pretty good so I breathed on it with the Edge Pro and put it in my pocket. I have carried it a whole lot but treated it like a gentleman's dress knife and haven't used it much at all until this last week or so.

Sitting on the couch today I got a chance to see what I could do for the "jacked" part of the edge (it was reflecting light pretty good for much of the belly / curve though the tip was still good. When I pulled it across my thumb nail I could really feel those bad areas and the knife was not catching on my nail when doing carving like motions on the face of my thumb nail.

I figured I would go with the least aggressive stone possible and work backward if needed.
I used a DMT Aligner stone; 8,000 grit diamond which as far as I know is their finest grit stone.

Holding the stone free hand, a la Michael Christy or Cliff Stamp, I took very light passes ALWAYS EDGE LEADING just in the problem areas, one or two strokes per side alternating back and forth. The bad spots disappeared quickly as viewed through my Jeweler's visor with a #10 lens. I could still feel the bad areas on my thumb nail. A couple more passes on each side and I could not feel the bad spots other than one little hint in one spot which I could just see as well but it was a reflection about the width of a hair. Full passes with the same stone would have taken that out with time.

My point is I was able to bring the full edge back to shave sharp and even splitting hairs but not easily whittling them with a very minimum of effort with an 8,000 diamond stone that is four inches long.

That's a pretty good experience . . . I think.

 

[timw1]

S90v can be marginally tougher than s110v. However both are already not very tough steels anyway so there isn’t much I would do with a s90v knife vs an s110v knife.

I thought both were tough steels, what do you consider tough?

 

[Blues]

I thought both were tough steels, what do you consider tough?

Scroll down the page at this link and you can use the info to compare the various characteristics of many popular and not so popular steels.

 

[Lapedog]

I thought both were tough steels, what do you consider tough?

Both are not tough steels at all. The high carbide tends to make a steel less tough. Both steels are likely tough enough for most folders and small fixed blade uses but there is a reason you don’t see big knives in these steels.

Both these steels are very abrasion resistant, I wouldn’t say they are tough steels when comparing to some other options.

Elmax is pretty tough stainless powder steel.

 

[Blues]

Speaking of tough, I like 3v for my go-to, do-all utility knife around the house. Pretty indestructible and holds a decent enough edge. Easy to sharpen too.

I wouldn't mind a couple Spyderco folders with the steel. (If anyone cares.)

 

[timw1]

Scroll down the page at this link and you can use the info to compare the various characteristics of many popular and not so popular steels.

Yes, it lists s90v as a tough steel that is of premium quality, thanks for the link.

 

[AlwaysTomboy]

Yes, it lists s90v as a tough steel that is of premium quality, thanks for the link.

3/10 is not highly tough. The only steel on that list less tough than S90V is S110V which is rated 2/10. The other premium steels listed there are rated 6 or 7 out of 10 and all of the other steels on that page are rated 4 or higher on toughness. S90V is not a tough steel. It doesn't mean it's a bad steel; it all depends on what properties you value most highly.

 

[Blues]

Yes, it lists s90v as a tough steel that is of premium quality, thanks for the link.

I think you misread the link I provided. 3/10 is not an indicator of tough steel. Compared to many of the other steels listed, it lags behind in that area.

(I still like S90V and carry a custom neck knife in the steel daily.)

 

[Fmont]

Speaking of tough, I like 3v for my go-to, do-all utility knife around the house. Pretty indestructible and holds a decent enough edge. Easy to sharpen too.

I wouldn't mind a couple Spyderco folders with the steel. (If anyone cares.)

I do, and agree. I'm a huge 3v fan.

 

[timw1]

Thanks guys, I did misread. I have a knife coming in s90v, good thing it's a small folder.

 

[Wowbagger]

Here's an example though :
The S110V generally sucked for my hard rubber trimming at work becuase it would loose it's sharpness farily fast and then be sort of good enough for ever. Meaning started out off the Edge Pro, using diamonds no less, at hair whittling and in a short while deteriorate to sort of shave sharp.

In contrast the M4 would stay easily shave sharp and pretty much whittling for weeks. Certainly easily shave sharp for a month.

I just took the S90V I posted about above, back to work for a couple of days and today I did one tiny episode of hard rubber trimming, hardly anything and right in the area of the blade that I used to do that the blade will hardly catch on my nail and when an edge feels like that it is almost past due for a touch up or sharpeing . . . I looked at it under a light and could see no reflection on the edge . . . just tried it on my arm hair and it is just barely sort of SCRAPE hair sharp. Not shave sharp. The only thing I cut with it other wise was a few very small, clean plastic product bags, and a few soft rubber tubes (like inner tube rubber).

The 940-1 with S90V is a knife that looks good for the magazine photos but when it comes to a work knife (at least for the work I do) THAT is why I reach for my Para2 (or my Gayle Bradley One) in M4.
Easier to sharpen than the S____V blades and the M4 makes them look silly after a day or two of use.

 

[MyLegsAreOk]

Here's an example though :
The S110V generally sucked for my hard rubber trimming at work becuase it would loose it's sharpness farily fast and then be sort of good enough for ever. Meaning started out off the Edge Pro, using diamonds no less, at hair whittling and in a short while deteriorate to sort of shave sharp.

In contrast the M4 would stay easily shave sharp and pretty much whittling for weeks. Certainly easily shave sharp for a month.

I just took the S90V I posted about above, back to work for a couple of days and today I did one tiny episode of hard rubber trimming, hardly anything and right in the area of the blade that I used to do that the blade will hardly catch on my nail and when an edge feels like that it is almost past due for a touch up or sharpeing . . . I looked at it under a light and could see no reflection on the edge . . . just tried it on my arm hair and it is just barely sort of SCRAPE hair sharp. Not shave sharp. The only thing I cut with it other wise was a few very small, clean plastic product bags, and a few soft rubber tubes (like inner tube rubber).

The 940-1 with S90V is a knife that looks good for the magazine photos but when it comes to a work knife (at least for the work I do) THAT is why I reach for my Para2 (or my Gayle Bradley One) in M4.
Easier to sharpen than the S____V blades and the M4 makes them look silly after a day or two of use.

I don't think any of these knives they sell us are any good for real work, need to get those disposable edge folders from Home Depot.

 

[Fmont]

That "sort of good enough forever" is actually really awesome when you need it.

 

[Fmont]

I don't think any of these knives they sell us are any good for real work, need to get those disposable edge folders from Home Depot.

Oh they'll work. If you're willing to use them.

 

[MyLegsAreOk]

Oh they'll work. If you're willing to use them.

I use a maxamet and s110v allow knive both are toothy and 20° I doubt you can use them for more than ten minutes cutting rubber, carpet, or drywall all day. I work in warehouse conditions so all I use it paper, cardboard, tape, food and they need to be maintained every 4th day or so.