Why 10xx is not better than D2 for a bushcraft kinfe!

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tatalley10

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Ok, so other than its harder to sharpen in the woods I want to here a bunch of really good reasons why 10xx is better than D2!

D2 is better due to it being more wear resistant.
D2 is more rust resistant than 10xx
And if your going to be out in the woods long enough to need more than a strop then you would most likely have time to slowly hand sharpen a D2 blade...right?
Besides with current cerakote technology even a d2 blade can be purdy, and very rust resistant...
 
Nothing wrong with D2 for a bushcraft blade
I have an enzo teapper in D2 that is an excellent bushcraft knife
 
Well, apart from wear resistant and cost, the 10XX series is a lot tougher than D2, and can either be used to make a similar thickness knife to one in D2, (and have it be much Tougher, good for pounding on)
Or you could make a much thinner knife that will outcut/slice a thicker knife in D2.
If I was choosing a woods knife there's no way I'd pick D2 personally, but the option's there.
To each his own, I suppose.
 
I'd opt for something from the Sandvik range personally, like 14C28N.
 
I'd rather have 3V, Elmax, M390, M4 or a number of other powder steels over D2 or 1095. Depending on your needs, you can get a blade that is tougher, stronger, more stain resistant or more wear resistant -- or some combination -- that exceeds the more traditional steels.
 
It's not as tough, affordable, available and easy to sharpen as 1095 yet, is also completly overshadowed by S30v in every thing except cost and hardness.

So it's quite the niche steel.

Especially when the general masses prefer low cost, easy to sharpen, tougher knives over the added wear resistance that D2 can bring to the table.

There really isn't any corriosn resistance either. It's all soaked up with the high carbon to form the carbides that help the steel wear so well. So there is almost nothing left for the free chromium that aids in passivation.

Even then, since it not a PM steel, it really takes a horrible edge,
Because of the high carbide volume that tends to clump up in large globs

It can be sharpened to a high sharpness, yes but, it takes even more effort to form a great apex that comes more naturally on other steels, even s30v.

So in the end, even more experienced Bushcrafters wanting a higher performance carbon steel would rather have O1, A2, 52100


Also there's CPM 3v that seem to be taking the fixed blade world by storm with CPM 4v on the horizon as the next big deal.

Sad to say, but D2 is on the endangered knife steel list. Soon to be another ATS 34, S60v, BG42, etc
 
Twindog said:
I'd rather have 3V, Elmax, M390, M4 or a number of other powder steels over D2 or 1095. Depending on your needs, you can get a blade that is tougher, stronger, more stain resistant or more wear resistant -- or some combination -- that exceeds the more traditional steels.
Click to expand...


Agreed.

To respond to the OP's specific question, 10xx is likely to have better impact resistance compared to D2. If you're battoning, chopping, hacking, or stabbing with the knife, 10xx is a sturdier choice for those actions. D2 has the edge (hah) on wear resistance by a fairly wide margin, but at the cost of being a harder steel that will be more rigid and thus less able to absorb shock without damage.

Neither are the -best- choice, however. Something like 3V or Elmax will give you better performance in all aspects, being finer-grained particle metallurgy steels, they are capable of having relative high hardnesses while still retaining wonderful impact resistance. Elmax is a little underwhelming compared to 3V but is a true stainless where 3V has a high enough carbon content that it is considered a tool steel IIRC
 
There are just better option in either direction of the spectrum. Like Deadbox said, 1095 will be cheaper, tougher, more available, easier to work with. Then almost everything up from that will be better in some way.
 
D2 is more brittle than 10xx, so it lacks toughness when chopping or similar activities. Resisting rust is, IMO, a non-issue since anyone with a lick of sense isn't going to let their prized knife rust, all it takes is a smidgen of proper care to keep even a 10xx steel rust-free.

The only benefit D2 has that is tangible over a 10xx steel is wear resistance, which is both good and bad. Harder to dull, harder to sharpen, preferably I'd want a knife that's easier to sharpen in the field vs one that's not going to full as fast but you won't be able to touch it up as easy if it does.

D2 is more expensive than 10xx, so if you break a knife (more likely with D2 than with 10xx) it's also more expensive to replace. My BK9 is half the price of my brother's Viper Carnera, and does everything similarly. I can also buy another BK9 and still have saved money vs. his knife's starting price.
 
I'd prefer something like 1055, 1065, or 1075 over any "super steel " or even 1095 for a heavy use bushcraft knife.
Reason: They are tougher with better impact resistance.
Cold Steel (supposedly) uses 1055 for their machetes, which are designed for impact.
Condor uses 1075 for their "Nessmuk", "Kephart", "Bushlore", and other bushcraft knives.
I believe axes and hatchets use something along the lines of 1045.
Remember, harder steels are more brittle than a "soft" steel. A hard steel is more likely to break or chip on impact, or when you hit a knot (or nail or bullet) if batoning. A softer steel is more likely to roll the edge, which can be stropped out. The 10xx can also be sharpened with a smooth river rock, if necessary.
 
afishhunter said:
I'd prefer something like 1055, 1065, or 1075 over any "super steel " or even 1095 for a heavy use bushcraft knife.
Reason: They are tougher with better impact resistance.
Cold Steel (supposedly) uses 1055 for their machetes, which are designed for impact.
Condor uses 1075 for their "Nessmuk", "Kephart", "Bushlore", and other bushcraft knives.
I believe axes and hatchets use something along the lines of 1045.
Remember, harder steels are more brittle than a "soft" steel. A hard steel is more likely to break or chip on impact, or when you hit a knot (or nail or bullet) if batoning. A softer steel is more likely to roll the edge, which can be stropped out. The 10xx can also be sharpened with a smooth river rock, if necessary.
Click to expand...

While I agree with your overall sentiment, there's something that needs a little clearing up, and that's that higher hardness does not necessarily mean lower toughness. While as a rule of thumb it's true, there are steels that are tougher than others at equal hardness.
 
I'm not at all a steel snob. I love 1095, and beckers and esee are among some of my favorites. I don't own any knives in D2, however I did try sharpening a friends. I am not proficient at sharpening by any means. I can easily get a working edge on 1095. D2, forget it. It was a pain to sharpen. I personally tend to stay away from it, as I have neither the skill nor patience to care for it.
 
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There is a CPM D2. I haven't heard much about knives made from it, but it certainly would be tougher. Kind of like how much better CPM 154Cm is to regular 154.

Like L6, D2 is one of those steels that consumers don't get when looking at the charts, yet knife makers seem to admire - and keep making knives out of.


1095 is a good steel for the money - which makes me wonder why people keep buying $100+ knives made of it. Great steel for a $14 Old Hickory, though.
 
I'll take the 1095.

You won't get "a bunch of really good reasons" from me.

I like it better. That's the only reason that counts.
 
RX-79G said:
There is a CPM D2. I haven't heard much about knives made from it, but it certainly would be tougher. Kind of like how much better CPM 154Cm is to regular 154.

Like L6, D2 is one of those steels that consumers don't get when looking at the charts, yet knife makers seem to admire - and keep making knives out of.


1095 is a good steel for the money - which makes me wonder why people keep buying $100+ knives made of it. Great steel for a $14 Old Hickory, though.
Click to expand...

Maybe you can expand, and tell us which you feel is better for a bushcraft knife. :thumbup:
 
This.

3v at 60 hrc is tougher than 1095 at 56 hrc. 3v at 58 hrc is almost 4 times tougher than 1095. Not all steels suffer from elevated hardness ranges; some benefit from it.
FortyTwoBlades said:
While I agree with your overall sentiment, there's something that needs a little clearing up, and that's that higher hardness does not necessarily mean lower toughness. While as a rule of thumb it's true, there are steels that are tougher than others at equal hardness.
Click to expand...
 
marcinek said:
Maybe you can expand, and tell us which you feel is better for a bushcraft knife. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

If you're asking about 1095 replacements, 80CrV2 or A2 would be the two I'd pick, offering high toughness with decent edge holding for lowish cost. O1 certainly works, and is affordable and better steel than 1095. 1095CV is great stuff, and 52100 is excellent, but doesn't appear to be the easiest stuff to get perfect in HT.

Cold Steel offers a 3V knife that would work well for $90.
 
RX-79G said:
If you're asking about 1095 replacements, 80CrV2 or A2 would be the two I'd pick, offering high toughness with decent edge holding for lowish cost. O1 certainly works, and is affordable and better steel than 1095. 1095CV is great stuff, and 52100 is excellent, but doesn't appear to be the easiest stuff to get perfect in HT.

Cold Steel offers a 3V knife that would work well for $90.
Click to expand...

So. You got nothing to add about the topic of the conversation: 10xx vs D2 in bushcraft knives. Got it. Thanks for your input! :thumbup:
 
RX-79G said:
1095 is a good steel for the money - which makes me wonder why people keep buying $100+ knives made of it. Great steel for a $14 Old Hickory, though.
Click to expand...

I don't know why it is hard to understand that if people buy it companies will make it. There must be a reason. People must like it.
 
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