Why 10xx is not better than D2 for a bushcraft kinfe!

[RX-79G]

So. You got nothing to add about the topic of the conversation: 10xx vs D2 in bushcraft knives. Got it. Thanks for your input! :thumbup:

It appears that you didn't ask your question in a clear way, got an answer you didn't expect, and are now acting like you're 10.

If you'd like to apologize, then ask your question again with a more precise predicate, you'll receive an answer that better fits the question you thought you were asking.

 

[marcinek]

It appears that you didn't ask your question in a clear way, got an answer you didn't expect, and are now acting like you're 10.

If you'd like to apologize, then ask your question again with a more precise predicate, you'll receive an answer that better fits the question you thought you were asking.

Sure. Let's try again. Which of D2 or 10xx is better for a buchcraft knife? Is what we are discussing. Third time's a charm!

 

[me2]

Where did you find toughness numbers for 1095?

 

[EChoil]

I like both for outdoor. I use a two-knife setup for bush. I prefer the D-2 in my smaller knife (an example would be my HEST 2.0 in D-2. Amazing chunk of steel) and 1095 in my larger one (an example, my older Schrade-Walden 15ot Deerslayer. Great steel and heat treat from the Sch.-Wald heyday of the '60's. Surprisingly corrosion-resistant over the years--still polishes up well considering).

If I had to pick a 'favorite' it would be the 1095 only due to ease of sharpening with whatever's available. I don't encounter 'sudden rust' on trips. I try to maintain my blade at all times.

 

[marcinek]

Sure. Let's try again. Which of D2 or 10xx is better for a buchcraft knife? Is what we are discussing. Third time's a charm!

I mean, I realize with your level of understanding of knives its hard to bring yourself down to our level of mundane discussion of the subject, but I'm sure everyone participating here would appreciate hearing your opinion on the topic at hand. :thumbup:

 

[Velitrius]

If I had to pick a 'favorite' it would be the 1095 only due to ease of sharpening with whatever's available. I don't encounter 'sudden rust' on trips. I try to maintain my blade at all times.

I've never had a problem with 1095, and I live next to the ocean. I don't wipe it down with oil every 10 minutes, or anything special.

I enjoy dragging the blade across the bottom of the coffee cup followed by stropping on the morning paper.

I suspect that an "extended outing" would see me swiping it on river rock followed by a cedar bark stropping.

I have nothing against D2 whatsoever. I'll take one of Bob Dozier's pieces with me anywhere, at the drop of a hat. Zero worries.

But I do love me some 1095.

 

[Roamad]

You can get a spark off a 1095 blade with flint or chert. Dunno about D2.

 

[marcinek]

I mean, I realize with your level of understanding of knives its hard to bring yourself down to our level of mundane discussion of the subject, but I'm sure everyone participating here would appreciate hearing your opinion on the topic at hand. :thumbup:

Well...our loss I guess. I certainly hope RG doesn't stop casting pearls before us due to me. :foot:

 

[RX-79G]

I mean, I realize with your level of understanding of knives its hard to bring yourself down to our level of mundane discussion of the subject, but I'm sure everyone participating here would appreciate hearing your opinion on the topic at hand. :thumbup:

Why are you being a such a jerk?

I was in the car and unable to answer your last question fast enough, apparently.


And if you want to be the thread drift police, you can pile on 42 Blades for bringing up other steels long before I did. What is wrong with you?


To answer the question you were apparently asking, I'd choose D2, IF I can pick the maker and the type of knife. People like Bob Dozier make very stable D2 edge wise. There are more than a couple D2 outdoor knives out there.

But, D2 is a hotly contested HT. There are two tempering ranges that produce the same hardness at very different toughness and edge stability, and "expert" knifemakers use both. 1095 does not suffer from this kind of ambiguity.

I don't think D2, or any stainless, is good for a large chopper.

 

[Velitrius]

I don't think D2, or any stainless, is good for a large chopper.

Is "large chopper" an integral part of the job description for "bushcraft knife" ?

If I think of a large chopper, it is a hatchet, axe, or machete.

I don't ask my knives to consider chopping as a task. They may rebel against my authority.

 

[RX-79G]

Is "large chopper" an integral part of the job description for "bushcraft knife" ?

If I think of a large chopper, it is a hatchet, axe, or machete.

I don't ask my knives to consider chopping as a task. They may rebel against my authority.

I don't, but some people do. And instead of having to address this after somebody objects to that about my post, I posted this ahead of time.

Sorry about that. Can't make everyone happy, I guess.

 

[EChoil]

I've never had a problem with 1095, and I live next to the ocean. I don't wipe it down with oil every 10 minutes, or anything special.

I've never had a problem either...nor with D-2 or other so-called "rusters." I give em minimal care, nothing out of the very ordinary.

I enjoy dragging the blade across the bottom of the coffee cup followed by stropping on the morning paper.

Yeah, a few steels take to the process better than others.

I suspect that an "extended outing" would see me swiping it on river rock followed by a cedar bark stropping.

I have nothing against D2 whatsoever. I'll take one of Bob Dozier's pieces with me anywhere, at the drop of a hat. Zero worries.

But I do love me some 1095.

I've sharpened 1095 on some strange things before and usually strop on a boot heel when in the wild. But I never looked forward to doing it with D-2 as that involved a whole evening around the campfire. Luckily the D usually held an edge through the trip long enough to get home. I always thought people underrate D-2.

 

[KingMC]

If you're asking about 1095 replacements, 80CrV2 or A2 would be the two I'd pick, offering high toughness with decent edge holding for lowish cost. O1 certainly works, and is affordable and better steel than 1095. 1095CV is great stuff, and 52100 is excellent, but doesn't appear to be the easiest stuff to get perfect in HT.

Cold Steel offers a 3V knife that would work well for $90.

If it is worth it to you to pay 3x as much for a fancier steel, go for it. 1095 has one of the best values of any steel, and if you take the same maker and the same design it would be significantly less expensive to have a 1095 knife than an 80CrV2 one. If you are paying more than $100 for a production knife under 10", you'll have a hard time finding one in 1095. The knives in 1095 over $100 are usually on the full custom side of things, where you pay for the work rather than the materials. Upgrade the steel in either case and the price goes up accordingly.

You can't get D2 and 1095 for the same price, just like you can't get 80CrV2, A2, or 3V for the same price as 1095. Therefore the decision between steels is based on more than just functionality, it's based on price as well. Your CS 3V for $90 will get outperformed by my Becker in 1095 for $90 every day, and if you managed to find a 3V knife with a 9" blade, you'll be paying a LOT more than $90 for it.

 

[RX-79G]

If it is worth it to you to pay 3x as much for a fancier steel, go for it. 1095 has one of the best values of any steel, and if you take the same maker and the same design it would be significantly less expensive to have a 1095 knife than an 80CrV2 one. If you are paying more than $100 for a production knife under 10", you'll have a hard time finding one in 1095. The knives in 1095 over $100 are usually on the full custom side of things, where you pay for the work rather than the materials. Upgrade the steel in either case and the price goes up accordingly.

You can't get D2 and 1095 for the same price, just like you can't get 80CrV2, A2, or 3V for the same price as 1095. Therefore the decision between steels is based on more than just functionality, it's based on price as well. Your CS 3V for $90 will get outperformed by my Becker in 1095 for $90 every day, and if you managed to find a 3V knife with a 9" blade, you'll be paying a LOT more than $90 for it.

As I just bought a ton of knives made of 80CrV2, I'll just say that you don't know what you're talking about. It is a common and relatively inexpensive steel.

 

[KingMC]

As I just bought a ton of knives made of 80CrV2, I'll just say that you don't know what you're talking about. It is a common and relatively inexpensive steel.

As someone who likes trying new steels and appreciates good prices, please tell me where you got 80CrV2 for under $100

 

[marcinek]

Why are you being a such a jerk?

I was in the car and unable to answer your last question fast enough, apparently.


And if you want to be the thread drift police, you can pile on 42 Blades for bringing up other steels long before I did. What is wrong with you?.

All I have done is asdk you for your opinion on the question the OP asked.

And each time your response has been insults. And now you have moved on to insulting KingMC because he has an opinion different than yours.

What is your damage? :thumbdn:

 

[Hickory n steel]

With 1095 you can sharpen it quickly enough to get right back to what your doing, and that's what I'd rather have even if it means I may have to sharpen it more often.
D2 may hold an edge longer, but when it does get dull it'll take long enough to sharpen that you have to really completely stop what your doing and sharpen it.
I have no experience with d2, but I do with 1095 and it's a great steel used in readily available knives that can be had for really cheap ( old kitchen knives .. ect )

Honestly I think it depends on the person, because both steels seem to have their advantages.

 

[KingMC]

With 1095 you can sharpen it quickly enough to get right back to what your doing, and that's what I'd rather have even if it means I may have to sharpen it more often.
D2 may hold an edge longer, but when it does get dull it'll take long enough to sharpen that you have to really completely stop what your doing and sharpen it.
I have no experience with d2, but I do with 1095 and it's a great steel used in readily available knives that can be had for really cheap ( old kitchen knives .. ect )

Honestly I think it depends on the person, because both steels seem to have their advantages.

Comparing the D2 that I had in my Adamas folder, and the 1095CV that I have in my KA-BARs, they seem about on par for the sharpening time, and they seem to dull at equal speeds. But, since 1095CV is different and I don't have any experience with just normal 1095 I'll have to ignore that little tidbit for the sake of comparing the 2 steels.

 

[RX-79G]

I just bought a bunch of Lauri 80CrV2 blades for $7 to $14. You can buy complete knives with these blades from Ahti, often for less than $50.

http://brisa.fi/knives/ahti-knives.html

It just isn't an expensive steel, nor hard to treat. You can go to various steel distributors and see the relative cost of these steels. Some, like 3V, are both costly and more difficult to heat treat. Yet Cold Steel still sells a nice 3V Hunter for $90.

 

[KingMC]

So a tiny puukko blade if 80CrV2 still brings in a $50 price tag when put in a finished knife? A 1095 Schrade with a 7in blade can be got for less than $40 shipped. 1095 is noticeably cheaper than 80CrV2, you're only basing your opinion on the fact that you buy tiny blades. Blade of equal thickness and length, one of 1095 and one of 80CrV2, made by the same maker, will have a noticeable difference in price.

Cold Steel's 3V hunter is also only a 4in blade, while I could get an 18in Condor Discord for less than that which also has micarta handles instead of CS's kraton.

Small blades being compared to big blades is not a good comparison for pricing out steels, you're making broad statements about steels without actually doing direct comparisons between blades with similar specs.