MagnaCut Run 2023 (delays carried it over to 2024)

oldmanwilly said:
As with Bob, I appreciate the update. No rush, it will be worth the wait.
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Very true, JTknives JTknives heat treatment has a well earned reputation for quality. I have reached out to him today for a status update and will report again here as soon as I know. Thanks again for your patience everyone.
 
Jarod and I have agreed that he should process the remaining 60 blades on this order in lots. We are breaking it down into three more lots of twenty blades each, and I am sending him a color coded image with priority levels based on blades with deposits on them, and the chronological order in which those deposits were placed.
 
I don’t know where I am on the chronology list, but I’m in no hurry, so you can put me in the last lot if it might move somebody else up. If it’s not going to complicate things.
 
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I appreciate your patience, gentlemen. There are three categories. Top, medium, and lowest priority. Nobody who is already expecting a blade will be in the lowest priority bracket, as half the blades on this run are still not claimed. I'm instructing Jarod that once the first two priority brackets are complete, the lowest priority blades can be put on hold until he completes the other order I am awaiting from him, i.e. the .196" and .080" AEB-L run.
 
  • Code brown: in-facility hazardous spill
So.... no.
 
Hello! I recently received my Zoomerang from Empire Outfitters and I was wondering what is the recommended edge sharpening angle? Mine arrived with a less than sharp edge. No complaint, sometimes stuff happens, so no worries. I just want to put the recommended edge on it rather than sending it all the way up North and back for something I can deal with easily.
Thanks!

-Jim
 
BlindMouse2of3 said:
SharpBits SharpBits What do you plan to use it for? Is it a super slicer or work horse? What is your preferred method, stones or strop? This will help with a proper recommendation.
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General cutting needs including the slaying of cardboard beasts. I’d like to start with what DM recommends, then experiment from there. I have a KME and a Sharpmaker. Diamonds and ceramics for each. I have a strop, but I’ve not built any skill with it, sadly.
 
We all start at the beginning with our sharpening skills. I'm sure David will be along shortly with proper recommendations the basic information just helps save a step. Congratulations on an awesome knife.

Edit to add: you have the right sharpening tools , that's half the battle.
 
SharpBits said:
General cutting needs including the slaying of cardboard beasts. I’d like to start with what DM recommends, then experiment from there. I have a KME and a Sharpmaker. Diamonds and ceramics for each. I have a strop, but I’ve not built any skill with it, sadly.
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I can't speak for David, but I know he likes slicey knives....

I'm going to guess 15 Degrees per side is a good place to start.
18-20 if you are in a workhorse mode
12 if you are a Ninja ;)
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I can't speak for David, but I know he likes slicey knives....

I'm going to guess 15 Degrees per side is a good place to start.
18-20 if you are in a workhorse mode
12 if you are a Ninja ;)
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Never go full ninja🤣. I'm trying not to add bias. But with the sharpmaker 15 and 20 are set. I'm 20 on work knives and 15 on super slicers. With my worksharp precision adjust I did my shaman at 17 with 20 micro bevel and really like that.

Edit: I'm done with the off topic discussion derailing the thread. Maybe we need to start a David Mary sharpening thread in his sub... I'll leave that up to the boss.
 
Good afternoon Jim SharpBits SharpBits . I am surprised to hear this. I try to save my customers money by building my knives with the kind of working edge I use on my own knives. I hand sharpened and tested each knife on this run personally before I packaged them, making sure they would slice paper snag free from heel to tip. I'm sorry to hear if yours isn't doing that.

I grind and sharpen each knife freehand and by eye, so each one is a little different, and it would be impossible for me to specify an angle, because I really don't know. My sharpening skills are fairly basic, though more than sufficient for my own user knives. I make most of my knives to be thin behind the edge, not only so they will cut well, but also because this minimizes the amount of material behind the edge that would be removed during maintenance, or reprofiling, giving the end user easier control over the final edge angle and finish. I hope this helps. Feel free to email me if you'd like to discuss further.
 
SharpBits said:
Hello! I recently received my Zoomerang from Empire Outfitters and I was wondering what is the recommended edge sharpening angle? Mine arrived with a less than sharp edge. No complaint, sometimes stuff happens, so no worries. I just want to put the recommended edge on it rather than sending it all the way up North and back for something I can deal with easily.
Thanks!

-Jim
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David Mary said:
Good afternoon Jim SharpBits SharpBits . I am surprised to hear this. I try to save my customers money by building my knives with the kind of working edge I use on my own knives. I hand sharpened and tested each knife on this run personally before I packaged them, making sure they would slice paper snag free from heel to tip. I'm sorry to hear if yours isn't doing that.

I grind and sharpen each knife freehand and by eye, so each one is a little different, and it would be impossible for me to specify an angle, because I really don't know. My sharpening skills are fairly basic, though more than sufficient for my own user knives. I make most of my knives to be thin behind the edge, not only so they will cut well, but also because this minimizes the amount of material behind the edge that would be removed during maintenance, or reprofiling, giving the end user easier control over the final edge angle and finish. I hope this helps. Feel free to email me if you'd like to discuss further.
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David's edges are much like a zero-degree convex edge, so it's hard to really measure the bevel angle. It would be easier to replicate with stones or a belt, rather than a Sharpmaker or Worksharp. But out of 12-13 knives from David, only my 8670 Tantosaurus Rex had less than ideal sharpness, and I used a Worksharp to put a 20 degree edge on it pretty easily. If I had tried a lesser angle then the bevel width would have possibly been too wide for the blade geometry. So far, I have only ever had to strop my other ones back to factory edge.
 
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