What's Next? . . . The ALL NEW 2nd Generation BADGER ATTACK ERGO!!!!

Thank you!
good good job bro! You can meet me in the comment section Haha

This may be surprising, but if you had been hitting the pipe with the edge, it would likely have sustained less damage. The reason is, the edge is a symmetrical wedge and forces generated from chopping on either sides go against and cancel out! However, when the impact is applied to the spine, due to inevitable inaccuracy, the pressure on the contact area is not evenly distributed, thus more force would concentrate on one edge of the spine. And because the wedge of the 90 degree spine is not hitting perpendicularly to the pipe, generating asymmetric force, the spine would chip. The false edge sustained less damage because it took symmetric forces.

Rounding the spine does prevent the stress from building up, and BUSSE does this in house sometines for the exact same purpose. And that’s called NUCLEAR MELTDOWN!
 
good good job bro! You can meet me in the comment section Haha

This may be surprising, but if you had been hitting the pipe with the edge, it would likely have sustained less damage. The reason is, the edge is a symmetrical wedge and forces generated from chopping on either sides go against and cancel out! However, when the impact is applied to the spine, due to inevitable inaccuracy, the pressure on the contact area is not evenly distributed, thus more force would concentrate on one edge of the spine. And because the wedge of the 90 degree spine is not hitting perpendicularly to the pipe, generating asymmetric force, the spine would chip. The false edge sustained less damage because it took symmetric forces.

Rounding the spine does prevent the stress from building up, and BUSSE does this in house sometines for the exact same purpose. And that’s called NUCLEAR MELTDOWN!
100% correct about the edge.
 
good good job bro! You can meet me in the comment section Haha

This may be surprising, but if you had been hitting the pipe with the edge, it would likely have sustained less damage. The reason is, the edge is a symmetrical wedge and forces generated from chopping on either sides go against and cancel out! However, when the impact is applied to the spine, due to inevitable inaccuracy, the pressure on the contact area is not evenly distributed, thus more force would concentrate on one edge of the spine. And because the wedge of the 90 degree spine is not hitting perpendicularly to the pipe, generating asymmetric force, the spine would chip. The false edge sustained less damage because it took symmetric forces.

Rounding the spine does prevent the stress from building up, and BUSSE does this in house sometines for the exact same purpose. And that’s called NUCLEAR MELTDOWN!
Hello, thanks. Do you think the whole spine should be made round? Or is it enough to simply make the edges of the spine round (remove the chamfers)? Best regards, Vlad.
 
Hello, thanks. Do you think the whole spine should be made round? Or is it enough to simply make the edges of the spine round (remove the chamfers)? Best regards, Vlad.
I wouldn't worry about rounding the spine more. The knife is fine as is. I looked closer at the pictures of the damage on the spine and it's denting/smearing not chipping , however, more and more dents next to each starts causing small little sections to start breaking out. That's normal for the steel. IMO. You can whack that pipe for 6 months and that knife will not break.
 
I wouldn't worry about rounding the spine more. The knife is fine as is. I looked closer at the pictures of the damage on the spine and it's denting/smearing not chipping , however, more and more dents next to each starts causing small little sections to start breaking out. That's normal for the steel. IMO. You can whack that pipe for 6 months and that knife will not break.
I also thought at first that these were dents. But no, the steel was chipping in those places, one piece almost fell off and I broke it off with my fingernail (it’s on my palm in the photo). But I agree, even with these damages the knife did not break and no cracks appeared.
 
Hello, thanks. Do you think the whole spine should be made round? Or is it enough to simply make the edges of the spine round (remove the chamfers)? Best regards, Vlad.
rounding the spine to a perfect half circle like Nuclear Meltdown would be optimal as it is perfoectly symmetric in any angle, but it is enormously time consumig without power tools. Just rounding the edges is enough
 
rounding the spine to a perfect half circle like Nuclear Meltdown would be optimal as it is perfoectly symmetric in any angle, but it is enormously time consumig without power tools. Just rounding the edges is enough
Hi, I used files to round the edge of my badger attack. I spent about 3 hours... but I cut off about 2 millimeters for the rounding. I didn’t want to make a perfect circle so as not to remove a lot of metal from the sides of the knife.
 
I think rounding the edges is enough for me. after all, after hitting the pipe there were no chips. and I can’t imagine a situation where I would have a real need to hit the mount. and even after mounting the knife did not break and there were not many chips. After rounding the edges on the spine, even after mounting, I did not observe any chips. and in actual use (I often go hiking) I never hit the knife with metal. so if a knife passes these tests, it will withstand anything. By the way, my Badger attack with a friend, weight 143 kilograms. and also chopped a nail with it. on my busse I bent the ends a little, I accidentally hit the bearing.... but I leveled the tip and then picked the board along the knots, everything was fine, the tip didn’t seem to have lost its strength. even if the tip broke, it’s okay, I would resharpen it and it would only become thicker and stronger. so I Busse I am now one hundred percent sure.
 
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In my experience, if you want to round the spine easy just a cylinder stone bit then finish with a sandpaper wheel.

All drillbit attachments

just put the handle of the knife in a vice and have had it

It all turned out very well. Somewhere out there there’s a homemade nuclear meltdown Busse RUCK and 3/16” satin jack
 
Hi all. I want to tell you about my tests. I did a test of a small busse (Barrel of Whiskey) and a badger attack of 2 generations. I cut 5 and 6.35 millimeter bolts with knives. The triggers of the knife were slightly damaged. The cutting edge is washed out. But the convergence of the knife is 5-6 times less than the thickness of the bolts. I also hit the knives with a 3 pound hammer. the knives held up. But I made the spines of the knives round. And now they don't take damage. the spine without rounding is damaged after contact with metal. I also made a new handle for Whiskey from G10. In Busse's attack of the badger, I changed the mount of the handle; after the impacts, the tubes that hold the handle became deformed and the handle linings shifted. I glued the handle to epoxy resin and secured it with bolts. the bolts are also with epoxy resin, now the handle has become much stronger. Maybe I'll add a video to YouTube. By the way, the mench had an Ontario knife. it broke under my weight. after that I broke his handle 4 more times from light blows from the side with a hammer. The 3.6-millimeter-thick Busse easily withstood this! but it was these bolts from Oniario that I used to recommend Busse. sorry for my shitty english.
 
I would love for them to bring this back but with a stonewashed blade.
 
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Hi all. I want to tell you about my tests. I did a test of a small busse (Barrel of Whiskey) and a badger attack of 2 generations. I cut 5 and 6.35 millimeter bolts with knives. The triggers of the knife were slightly damaged. The cutting edge is washed out. But the convergence of the knife is 5-6 times less than the thickness of the bolts. I also hit the knives with a 3 pound hammer. the knives held up. But I made the spines of the knives round. And now they don't take damage. the spine without rounding is damaged after contact with metal. I also made a new handle for Whiskey from G10. In Busse's attack of the badger, I changed the mount of the handle; after the impacts, the tubes that hold the handle became deformed and the handle linings shifted. I glued the handle to epoxy resin and secured it with bolts. the bolts are also with epoxy resin, now the handle has become much stronger. Maybe I'll add a video to YouTube. By the way, the mench had an Ontario knife. it broke under my weight. after that I broke his handle 4 more times from light blows from the side with a hammer. The 3.6-millimeter-thick Busse easily withstood this! but it was these bolts from Oniario that I used to recommend Busse. sorry for my shitty english.
Please post the link !
 
Am I the only one that can’t see the photos ? They are just red Xs . Can someone share the original photos of the new blade ?
 
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