I want to make an 8" fighter

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Oct 18, 2001
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I want to design an 8" fighter/dagger that will fit in the large Spec Ops Combat Master sheath.

Here's what I'm thinking:

3/16" thick steel
Spear point (think dagger)
"Double" Hollow grinds (top and bottom)

In other words, a symmetrical blade, but asymmetrical handle (but I'm open on this)


What else should I look at for inspiration?


What other features would be nice?


If you've got pics or drawings, please post them.

Thanks!

Dan
 
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I really like a nice curved fighter blade and this design of yours is excellent and if you make it I fully intend to order one......
MUCK-0923-03.jpg
[/IMG]

Now if you imagine a similar style with a 6"-7" blade. A fully sharpened top grind rather than a swedge, tapered tang to keep it light in the hand and an extended lower guard (maybe top and bottom) to protect the hand from moving forward over the blade.....and you have a really wicked utility fighter.
If you ever made one put me at the front of the queue!:)
 
I've always been a fan of blood grooves on a fighter; however, the chamfered holes you did on some of the early K-Boars look awesome too and would easily identify it as your work. I would prefer a K-Boar type handle sans finger ring, possibly with a sub hilt instead. The biggest area of debate will probably be the guard.
 
This type of clip point is IMO the best style for a fighting knife. Straight and long, top one in pic. This is a 6 inch blade.
IMG_0309.jpg
 
This ratmandu (5" blade) is the same idea and IMO is the best fighting knife out there. It doesn't have a false edge on the back per se but it's ground down and rounded which would be nice on an 8 incher to use draw knife style.
P7050077.jpg
 
Oops....should have made it more clear....I am definitely doing a dagger-type grind....and definitely 8 inches of blade.


Other than that...I'm pretty open as to what else is included.

I do like the MUCK handle and would definitely consider using it - or something similar.

I also like the suggestion of holes in the blade instead of a blood groove. :thumbup:

Dan
 
If you mean dagger than I'd suggest a double recurve of sorts. One recurve for the bottom and one for the top but a little assym so they don't line up on top of each other and aren't shaped the same. I guess kind of like a real pointy bolo with the general MUCK shape.
 
I've got a few years in Kali, and in my experience you want these qualities in a fighter:

You def. want the option for double edged. Also the knife should feel comfortable in all grips up/down, main edge facing in/out. The handle should also be a little textured, you hands will get sweaty because of stress, and things get slippery. There should be some sort of guard to keep the hand from sliding onto the blade in a up/down ward grip stabbing motion. And a VERY STRONG TIP.

I never really cared for recurves/serrations/up swept blades ..etc or such in a fighter, slashes are secondary to stabs. Slashes won't always penetrate clothing deep enough to do much more damage that a paper cut. A stab always will, unless their wearing armor or something...lol
 
Dang it Dan!!!

Here I was thinking that finally after more than 100 knives I had reached knife Nirvana...
I have my Spyderco Cricket for the Sheeple, my ZT301 for my Pocket knife, and my Dan Koster Survivor for the woods and you go and post something like this AND the MUCK!!! I really thought that maybe I had reached that place that we can only dream about where your knife needs are truly satiated, but I guess I was wrong. And I cant wait to see what you produce.
:);):D
 
LMAO, Moses 3. :D :p


Jack - thanks for the honest reply. I do want double-sided grinds out to a stout tip (not as pointy as a dagger).



Recurves look great, but they are a BEAR to grind....so I will probably have to stick to straight edges just for simplicity's sake. I love how it looks...especially when asymmetrical....just like for OTHER makers to do it...not me. :D
 
How about something like this.....

bdag.jpg


Or maybe this one but drop the point a little to make the blade symmetrical.....

survbow10.jpg
 
I do like the idea behind that last one, pitdog.

:thumbup:

Dan
 
How about something like this?

4007926731_05b1457c89_o.jpg


Semi-symmetric blade shape, with a MUCK style handle and K-Boar type blood holes instead of a groove. Also note the waterjetted "K" instead of your normal etch. I think the blade would be strong enough to support it and it would add a nice touch aesthetically. POB is between the front guard and the first blood hole.

At the widest, the blade is 1.75" and 8" from plunge to tip.
 
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If you want more flare out and no recurve there is always the barong (sp?)..... Lots of belly.
 
JC in SC said:
How about something like this?

4007926731_05b1457c89_o.jpg


Semi-symmetric blade shape, with a MUCK style handle and K-Boar type blood holes instead of a groove. Also note the waterjetted "K" instead of your normal etch. I think the blade would be strong enough to support it and it would add a nice touch aesthetically. POB is between the front guard and the first blood hole.

At the widest, the blade is 1.75" and 8" from plunge to tip.
Click to expand...

Like that design, good drawing.
 
Tapered tang.

Are you adding a guard or are you think guardless or part of the handle
 
Dont like the look of the holes at least in the drawing but may like them better on the real knife.Also may think of making them in decreasing size from tip to hilt that might look better than the symmetrical size
 
Dan,
What about something like your K-Boar, without the ring.
A K-Boar with an 8' blade, no hole, a slight guard, your handle with the swell at the end for second hand push would work for me.:thumbup::cool:
 
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