2021 Summer Kitchen Kith New Deadline: August 29

I f**d up. One part of the corby wasn't seated good, the hole was deep enough but the corby didn't go all the way in and I ground through the head. Removed the rest of the head with dremmel and diamond bur and tried punching out the rest, but it wouldn't budge. I panicked and just closed up the hole with the rest of the corby head, but didn't think of the obvious repair to drill it all out and put a new corby. What do do you think? I used gflex and think that's not moving anywhere, but should I go ahead and try drilling it all out? I am afraid to destroy the handle.

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FredyCro said:
I f**d up. One part of the corby wasn't seated good, the hole was deep enough but the corby didn't go all the way in and I ground through the head. Removed the rest of the head with dremmel and diamond bur and tried punching out the rest, but it wouldn't budge. I panicked and just closed up the hole with the rest of the corby head, but didn't think of the obvious repair to drill it all out and put a new corby. What do do you think? I used gflex and think that's not moving anywhere, but should I go ahead and try drilling it all out? I am afraid to destroy the handle.

UKAbYti.jpg

9PEo68A.jpg
Click to expand...
This is just an idea, but you might be able to drill a hole big enough in the center to fit the tip of a soldering iron through. This way you may be able to heat the corby enough to soften the epoxy to remove it without weakening the bond of your scales.
 
FredyCro said:
I f**d up. One part of the corby wasn't seated good, the hole was deep enough but the corby didn't go all the way in and I ground through the head. Removed the rest of the head with dremmel and diamond bur and tried punching out the rest, but it wouldn't budge. I panicked and just closed up the hole with the rest of the corby head, but didn't think of the obvious repair to drill it all out and put a new corby. What do do you think? I used gflex and think that's not moving anywhere, but should I go ahead and try drilling it all out? I am afraid to destroy the handle.

UKAbYti.jpg

9PEo68A.jpg
Click to expand...
Sorry to see that happen. I went back and looked at the photos you posted of the glue-up and knowing what happened, it is pretty obvious that that Corby bolt was sticking out way more than the other one.

How deep is the head that you glued in seated? I think it's probably ok as long as you got a good bit in there.
 
FredyCro said:
I f**d up. One part of the corby wasn't seated good, the hole was deep enough but the corby didn't go all the way in and I ground through the head. Removed the rest of the head with dremmel and diamond bur and tried punching out the rest, but it wouldn't budge. I panicked and just closed up the hole with the rest of the corby head, but didn't think of the obvious repair to drill it all out and put a new corby. What do do you think? I used gflex and think that's not moving anywhere, but should I go ahead and try drilling it all out? I am afraid to destroy the handle.

UKAbYti.jpg

9PEo68A.jpg
Click to expand...
I'd agree that it's probably fine if there's enough of it seated below the handle. It's a kitchen knife we aren't chopping down trees. I don't put pins in my hidden tang kitchen knives and I know many others do not just gflex.
 
Hubert S. said:
Sorry to see that happen. I went back and looked at the photos you posted of the glue-up and knowing what happened, it is pretty obvious that that Corby bolt was sticking out way more than the other one.

How deep is the head that you glued in seated? I think it's probably ok as long as you got a good bit in there.
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Yeah, I actually had to seat the sleeve part with a hammer and I thought that it had solved the problem but I missed the bolt side sticking out so much. When I took the remains out I saw that the the bolt went only half way in, so I still got about a 4 mm recessed hole that I filed with a dummy.

I think I will bite the bullet and start drilling it out carefully (2mm drill first and work my way up). It wouldn't be such a drama if my drill press were any better.
 
imill3567 said:
I'd agree that it's probably fine if there's enough of it seated below the handle. It's a kitchen knife we aren't chopping down trees. I don't put pins in my hidden tang kitchen knives and I know many others do not just gflex.
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If it weren't for kith I wouldn't give it a second thought. There are the hollows and the through holes in the tang and I drilled small binding (epoxy chamber) holes all over the bottom of the scales. Full corby is still in there and the female part of the other going through the tang that wouldn't budge against a punch and hammer.

Still feels like a half assed job 😕
 
TheEdge01 said:
This is just an idea, but you might be able to drill a hole big enough in the center to fit the tip of a soldering iron through. This way you may be able to heat the corby enough to soften the epoxy to remove it without weakening the bond of your scales.
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Don't have a soldering iron but I might drill through it..
 
FredyCro said:
Yeah, I actually had to seat the sleeve part with a hammer and I thought that it had solved the problem but I missed the bolt side sticking out so much. When I took the remains out I saw that the the bolt went only half way in, so I still got about a 4 mm recessed hole that I filed with a dummy.

I think I will bite the bullet and start drilling it out carefully (2mm drill first and work my way up). It wouldn't be such a drama if my drill press were any better.
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It's probably fine. Drilling it out sounds pretty tricky, I'm fairly certain I would mess it up and have to make a new handle...
 
The way I manage things like a wonky pin, is to assume I’m going to redo the candle, try to repair it, and if the repair works, nice bonus. If it doesn’t, I already expected to replace it anyway.
 
FredyCro said:
I f**d up. One part of the corby wasn't seated good, the hole was deep enough but the corby didn't go all the way in and I ground through the head. Removed the rest of the head with dremmel and diamond bur and tried punching out the rest, but it wouldn't budge. I panicked and just closed up the hole with the rest of the corby head, but didn't think of the obvious repair to drill it all out and put a new corby. What do do you think? I used gflex and think that's not moving anywhere, but should I go ahead and try drilling it all out? I am afraid to destroy the handle.

UKAbYti.jpg

9PEo68A.jpg
Click to expand...
Is the Corby head going to show when you grind? If not you are probably fine. If you have plenty of epoxy underneath it it should mostly act like it is pinned solid. I did over twist Corbies when I was making a bunch of test blades with different grinds and a friend ended up keeping one. It was the flex that opened up the front. I was still learning then so I'm sure there were several things I may have done that let it happen but it's something I watch close now. Another option if you drill it out the pin and depending on what size Corby you have you can drop in a larger size.
 
Storm W said:
Is the Corby head going to show when you grind? If not you are probably fine. If you have plenty of epoxy underneath it it should mostly act like it is pinned solid. I did over twist Corbies when I was making a bunch of test blades with different grinds and a friend ended up keeping one. It was the flex that opened up the front. I was still learning then so I'm sure there were several things I may have done that let it happen but it's something I watch close now. Another option if you drill it out the pin and depending on what size Corby you have you can drop in a larger size.
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Yeah, I had agressive thumb recesses and today I exposed the other head as well. I was also not happy with the poplar piece which made it an easy decision. Never pulled a handle until now, but it went quicker then expected. Drilled the corbies, wrapped the knife in a wet towel and put it through an half open door in the toaster oven at max setting. After 10-15 min I just pulled the handle with all the epoxy off, had to cut through epoxy bridges but they were dead soft. No clean up necessary on the steel.

New handle is cross cut cloth micarta with olive green g10 backing and peened ss pins. Also first time I peened ss properly, dressed the hammer head, recessed pin holes on both sides, cut the pins to right size, polished and deburred the pins and used the new (to me) anvil and just the let the weight of the hammer bounce on the pin heads.

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Ok, I am done. I will sharpen and do a kydex edge protector when I am back from vacation. Challenging build with double hollows and the whole blade twisting like pretzel all the time through grinding. Also tried a new shape on the handle. Hope you like it. The blade is very light (130g).

Spec: double hollow 180mm chef out of 2.5 mm 14c28n at 61 HRC, tapered tang, slight taper toward front, rounded back and choil. Sculpted handle out of cross cut cloth micarta and olive green g10 with flats on the front for indexing. 500g hand finish on the blade, 320 on the back and tang, handle 600g and light polish with white compound.
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FredyCro said:
Ok, I am done. I will sharpen and do a kydex edge protector when I am back from vacation. Challenging build with double hollows and the whole blade twisting like pretzel all the time through grinding. Also tried a new shape on the handle. Hope you like it. The blade is very light (130g).

Spec: double hollow 180mm chef out of 2.5 mm 14c28n at 61 HRC, tapered tang, slight taper toward front, rounded back and choil. Sculpted handle out of cross cut cloth micarta and olive green g10 with flats on the front for indexing. 500g hand finish on the blade, 320 on the back and tang, handle 600g and light polish with white compound.
ERI1K9g.jpg

cmDxbDn.jpg

dnK08D7.jpg
Click to expand...
That came out nice. Can I have it.......no really. Guess I should get busy.
 
FredyCro said:
Ok, I am done. I will sharpen and do a kydex edge protector when I am back from vacation. Challenging build with double hollows and the whole blade twisting like pretzel all the time through grinding. Also tried a new shape on the handle. Hope you like it. The blade is very light (130g).

Spec: double hollow 180mm chef out of 2.5 mm 14c28n at 61 HRC, tapered tang, slight taper toward front, rounded back and choil. Sculpted handle out of cross cut cloth micarta and olive green g10 with flats on the front for indexing. 500g hand finish on the blade, 320 on the back and tang, handle 600g and light polish with white compound.
ERI1K9g.jpg

cmDxbDn.jpg

dnK08D7.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks great man!
 
Nice! Good looking knife, and I like the loop on the pin, that's a cool touch!
 
On the topic of finished knives... Mine is not finished, and it won't be done in time. I'm gonna have to bow out. Sorry fellas!!
 
Got my blades from Jarod today, so I will be working on it this week! Thinking of red micarta bolsters and home made carbon fiber burl handles.
 
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