The blue box itself is not likely genuine - the real ones ALWAYS have a white label on one end that cover two sides of the box top, and the corners of the label are rounded, like the label on the brown box pin the Crooked River. The Crooked River box looks real.
The type of steel is always listed on the larger top flat side of the box and not on the end part of the box. If a fake box comes with a label, and the label is flipped 180 degrees, so the part that says CPM-S30V is on the small end of the box instead of on the wide flat side of the box, then it's usually fake. I have pics in a previous post in this thread showing the fake box with label flipped 180 degrees, and the label is too shiny.
I have seen people buy used boxes on eBay to go with a real knife, thinking it will raise the value of the knife, but instead implicates the real one as a fake because the box is fake.
The pics of the knives are not high res enough or detailed enough to know if they are real. I have never seen the Sibert model in the picture with the "likely fake" blue box in real life before, so I can't compare vis experience. And just because the box is fake doesn't mean the knife is fake.
Likewise, just because the Crooked river box looks real doesn't mean the knife is real. I have not handled one of those either, but it's hard to believe that Benchmade would have such a poor fit of the wood scales to the Titanium bolsters.
See my previous posts and the following tips below about what to look for in hi-res pics, or in person because we can't tell with the pics provided:
(1) the Butterfly logo look for tiny (R) in a circle that's almost too small to read, and often the print looks more grey as you view it from an angle on the fakes (2) look for fake thumb studs that stick out past the grips when viewing the knife from above the blade opening with knife folded, and (3) look for the tiers or levels on the rings of the thumb studs to go too high and narrower into a tighter cone at the top than a real one (that you bring with to to compare to, you should be able to see a Torx screw pattern inside the thumb stud's hole). (4) Look for rough edges in the holes and (5) poor centering of screws in the holes. (6) Look at the texture of the G-10 which if real should almost have a "grain" to it like wood. (7) most of the time Benchmade blades have grind patterns and many fakes will be stonewashed with no going or grain in the blade. (8) The Torx screws will usually have a different shape to the holes for the stars on genuine Benchmade knives than the fakes - one a real one the top of the screw head is like a half-dome, where the Torx hole just drops like a cliff from the rounded edges down.
In this case, the printing on the blade of the Crooked River looks grayer and blurrier than genuine, but the printing on the Sibert with "fake" box looks darker and blacker like the real thing. But still not enough detail to see the (R) to the bottom right of the butterfly to see if the size is right.
I just grabbed my Mini Griptilian and took pics of there real screws, logo, and thumb studs to use for comparison. It's dirty and was in my pocket, but the pics are good enough.
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Fake screws in irregular shaped/sized holes, with no texture to the G-10.
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Real screws, clean holes, and textured G-10. If your knives have GRN not G-10, then look at the mini grip pics for the texture above.
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Look at these fake thumb studs vs real - fake left, real on the right.
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More fake thumb studs pics - real one is the black blade, fake is the stonewashed satin blade. See how fake thumb studs are more of a tower shape and get taller and narrower really quickly?
Also the fake knife reversed the direction of all the grip and pivot screws to come into the wrong side.
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