Best compound bow for the price?

[Monofletch]

Mine starts Sept. 15. All I need now is a new stand.

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

I wish you lived closer. I'd get you all set up.

That would be cool.:thumbup:

This is what I was telling you about. Im guessing it aint good. Washer is digging into the cam i think.Should I loosen the screw thats through it? Just drew it all the way back and almost thinking its causing some extra tension pulling. Maybe not, 70lbs might just be hard to pull back but I seen this was there when first inspected the bow, just figured normal wear but now thinking its a problem.

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[Monofletch]

No, not an issue. That is how you fine tune the draw. Most people will never touch that. Just leave it alone.
Your limbs look backed out a bunch. Most companies only recommend backing off 10#.

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

That is a pretty cool stand. I am borrowing a climber from my father in law right now with the intent on purchasing one next month. I came close to getting a ladder stand but I hunt two different areas and I am not a huge fan of the pop up style ground blinds. I've had 3 and all three didnt last a season each. Granted I didnt spend a whole lot on them. For me down here in GA they make the warmer winter weather even hotter.

When does your season come in?

Yeah hoping will be good. All their models are mostly positive. Bet ground blinds would get warm inside down south. I like using them in the winter with a portable heater. Season here starts 9/19

 

[Monofletch]

I also found this...,...
http://compoundbowchoice.com/brands/bear/instinct/specs/ that's a 50-70# bow.

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

No, not an issue. That is how you fine tune the draw. Most people will never touch that. Just leave it alone.
Your limbs look backed out a bunch. Most companies only recommend backing off 10#.

Great! Was worried.

Dont know what that means would really appreciate that walk through sometime tomarrow brother. Thanks.

 

[shandrydan1]

It's September 12th here. Sounds like we will all be hitting the woods about the same time. I have 4 deer right now on camera so far, definitely getting excited haha.

Also, thanks for that link. It has a lot of cool info on it!

When you aren't used to shooting 70# is kinda surprising, especially with repeated shooting and/or holding shots. I turned mine back to 65 and have worked it up to being able to shoot/hold consistently at 67.5. I plan on moving up to 70 within a week or so to see if I can keep the same consistency.

Looking forward to hearing how you like shooting it!

 

[Monofletch]

I use to own a Mathews Safari Custom that maxed at 112#! And a Bowtech Samson that maxed at 95#. I shot both at 95#. A lot of technique goes into shooting heavy poundage bows accurately. That was when I was young and dumb.

 

[338375]

I'm probably going to end up with two. this ones gonna have to work for the time being though. This will end up being my beater.

Just bought a Guide Gear 16' Wraparound 2-man Ladder Stand. Looks really nice, nothing but positive reviews and descent price.

Two problems though. Sales tax for me living in MN and wish I lived by them so could just pick it up. Came to $165 with tax and shipping. I'm expecting this to be a nice stand though. My first steel ladder stand. I'm thinking I might buy a bow ground blind too or build two other tree stands in diiferent spots.

Will bring the bow in tomarrow. Fingers crossed.

Don't look at your bow as a beater. Of course it isn't a Mathews JK There isn't anything wrong with Bear bows. Get your bow checked out and set up correctly, and worry about getting your form down and lots of practice.

I wish you lived closer. I'd get you all set up.

:thumbup:

That would be cool.:thumbup:

This is what I was telling you about. Im guessing it aint good. Washer is digging into the cam i think.Should I loosen the screw thats through it? Just drew it all the way back and almost thinking its causing some extra tension pulling. Maybe not, 70lbs might just be hard to pull back but I seen this was there when first inspected the bow, just figured normal wear but now thinking its a problem.

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I see my warning about not drawing the bow until after you have those marks on the limbs looked at fell on deaf ears.... There was a reason I was adamant about telling you that :grumpy:
Then again, it's your bow and your body.

 

[Monofletch]

Most limb cracks will be linear. Those look like cameo coating scratches.

 

[338375]

Most limb cracks will be linear. Those look like cameo coating scratches.

That's true, and I mentioned that earlier, but considering they started at or near the cam axle, I was a little concerned, and didn't want him taking a chance until it was looked at.
On the other hand, I understand when you get a new bow, the first thing you want to do is draw it back I'm guessing you have been shooting awhile too, so you have seen the videos of what can happen when things come apart

 

[Monofletch]

Yes, sir, been there and done that. They say if you rub a cotton ball over the 'crack' it will catch if it's a crack.

 

[338375]

Yes, sir, been there and done that. They say if you rub a cotton ball over the 'crack' it will catch if it's a crack.

Absolutely. I read that on AT IIRC a long time ago, and it works great. I bought a Mathews Outback about 5 years ago, and when it arrived, it had a small splinter on the bottom limb, so I got to try it out
I don't want anyone to think I'm being a dick to the OP with my all caps posting and comment about falling on deaf ears, but I don't want to see someone new to the sport that doesn't know what to look for, take an unnecessary risk and get seriously injured

 

[shandrydan1]

Yes, sir, been there and done that. They say if you rub a cotton ball over the 'crack' it will catch if it's a crack.

I have not read/heard/seen that so thanks for the post. Any information I can pick up from those who have hunted with a bow before is much appreciated!

 

[338375]

I have not read/heard/seen that so thanks for the post. Any information I can pick up from those who have hunted with a bow before is much appreciated!

Not sure if you already have or not, but join Archery Talk... It is like BF's for archery. There are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable people hanging out there

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

Got back from the shop. They said looked good and no concerns to worry about cept needing to change the string next year. Have it set now at 65lbs and 29.5 draw length. Bought a scale to so can accurately measure the poundage on my own.

Sorry Mike. Couldn't take it anymore. Appreciate the advice (and waiting a day would have been the wise thing to do) but was confident enough wasn't a crack and an OK from Mono, couldn't help it.

Hopefully will be out in the woods/farm most of next week and can shoot, get that stand up, scout.

Also joined Archery Talk rescently but haven't made a single post yet. When I actually have a clue what I'm talking about and as the obsession grows probably will though. This is really the only forum I call home for the most part.

Still gotta get some broadheads. I'm thinking of going the fixed blade route since a complete beginner. Or should I go with the mechanicals for deer hunting?

Anybody use Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts?

 

[Monofletch]

I have been in archery for a long, LONG time. If any of you have questions feel free to PM me. There are no stupid questions in archery.

 

[shandrydan1]

Got back from the shop. They said looked good and no concerns to worry about cept needing to change the string next year. Have it set now at 65lbs and 29.5 draw length. Bought a scale to so can accurately measure the poundage on my own.

Sorry Mike. Couldn't take it anymore. Appreciate the advice (and waiting a day would have been the wise thing to do) but was confident enough wasn't a crack and an OK from Mono, couldn't help it.

Hopefully will be out in the woods/farm most of next week and can shoot, get that stand up, scout.

Also joined Archery Talk rescently but haven't made a single post yet. When I actually have a clue what I'm talking about and as the obsession grows probably will though. This is really the only forum I call home for the most part.

Still gotta get some broadheads. I'm thinking of going the fixed blade route since a complete beginner. Or should I go with the mechanicals for deer hunting?

Anybody use Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts?

Sounds good! Glad it all worked out for ya! Now you get to the fun stuff, shooting it!

I went mechanical partly on the Swacker recommendation from my brother in law. I could be wrong on this but from my understanding reading the fixed heads require more tuning and my logic was to make it as easy my first time around as possible. So I could spend more time practicing. Someone else may say that isn't the case but that is how I made my decision and if I am wrong on this please let me know.

 

[338375]

Got back from the shop. They said looked good and no concerns to worry about cept needing to change the string next year. Have it set now at 65lbs and 29.5 draw length. Bought a scale to so can accurately measure the poundage on my own.

Sorry Mike. Couldn't take it anymore. Appreciate the advice (and waiting a day would have been the wise thing to do) but was confident enough wasn't a crack and an OK from Mono, couldn't help it.

Hopefully will be out in the woods/farm most of next week and can shoot, get that stand up, scout.

Also joined Archery Talk rescently but haven't made a single post yet. When I actually have a clue what I'm talking about and as the obsession grows probably will though. This is really the only forum I call home for the most part.

Still gotta get some broadheads. I'm thinking of going the fixed blade route since a complete beginner. Or should I go with the mechanicals for deer hunting?

Anybody use Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts?

That's good to hear that there were no issues. No need to apologize, I just get really concerned when I think there might be a chance someone starting out could get hurt

Hopefully you are happy with the shop you dealt with. They can be a great help when you are starting out... Re: Archery Talk, don't feel like you have to post. It's amazing what you kind find just doing a search. As Mono said, there are no stupid questions. We all went through the same learning curve when we started out...

As far as broadheads, whatever you buy, just make sure they fit within the regs of your state. It varies from state to state. I am really happy with Rocky Mountain Ti 100's, and have been using them for about 12 years now. We can't use mechanical broadheads in Oregon, and I wouldn't even if we could. Not that there is anything wrong with them, many people use them without issue, but I am funny about having the fewest mechanical things possible, because in my mind it eliminates one more thing that could go wrong.

I hope you enjoy the sport. It is a lot of fun. Don't get discouraged when you miss an animal, and you will It happens to everyone, but the rewards far outweigh that...

I have been in archery for a long, LONG time. If any of you have questions feel free to PM me. There are no stupid questions in archery.

 

[Monofletch]

Mechanicals have come a long way. I have used Rocket Hammerheads and NAP Shockwaves for many years. Fixed blade do require more tuning, but it's not hard if you have the time to do it.
The easiest way to tune your bow is walk back tuning. Start at 10 yards. Put a dot and a vertical line on the target. Shoot a group at 10 and adjust your sight to hit at that range. When you are good go to 20 yards. Use the same dot and the same sight pin and shoot your group. You probably won't hit the dot, but your arrows should be on the vertical line and maybe a little low. If your arrows do not hit the line note if they are right or left of the line and move to 25-30 yards. Use the same sight pin and shoot another group. Your arrows will hit even lower. If you had a left or right impact it will be even greater. Now if you are hitting to the left you need to move your rest to the right 1/16-1/8 of an inch and move it left for a right impact. Next step is to start back at 10 and repeat until you are in a vertical line at 10-20-30. Remember, you are aiming with the same sight pin and the same target point the whole time. Also, using this method you are adjusting the rest not the sight. You can do the same with your fixed blades to fine tune them.