BladeHQ Para 2 exclusive M4 w/ Jade G10

91bravo said:
Is it the presentation side that has that "step" in the pivot or is it the clip side? I can't remember. I need to tighten up my pivot just a hair and I don't want to tighten the stepped side...
Click to expand...
The clip side pivot screw is the one that's locked in, don't try to turn it. You turn the presentation side

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Damn, I've taken apart quite a few pm2 and *never* have I seen red loctite on them. I almost didn't believe you until I saw the pics lol. That's crazy

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All spydies are different. ON the 52100 Millie, it's the presentation side that's stepped and you adjust from the clip side....
 
k_ozdragon said:
Damn, I've taken apart quite a few pm2 and *never* have I seen red loctite on them. I almost didn't believe you until I saw the pics lol. That's crazy

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Click to expand...

I don't remember if my standard issue (black G10/s30v) had loctite; but my blurple s110v did.
 
k_ozdragon said:
It looks that way, but one of the screws is notched and doesn't turn. On the pm2 it's the one on the clip side.

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Click to expand...

I don't understand what you're saying. The pivot bushing is notched on one side, but neither screw is notched and both are adjustable. The purpose of the bushing notch is to prevent the bushing from spinning when turning the screws... regardless of which screw you turn.
 
91bravo said:
All spydies are different. ON the 52100 Millie, it's the presentation side that's stepped and you adjust from the clip side....
Click to expand...

Again, the notched bushing has nothing whatever to do with which screw you can adjust. Neither screw is "locked in". You can adjust both.
 
ejames13 said:
Again, the notched bushing has nothing whatever to do with which screw you can adjust. Neither screw is "locked in". You can adjust both.
Click to expand...

I don't mess with the stepped side screw. I always tighten it down basically to set it and forget it. I always adjust the non-stepped side because the stepped side is more temperamental. And besides, when you tighten the stepped side, it just tightens the bushing down onto the washer against the liner. The non-stepped side tightens the liner against the washer against the blade, which has better adjustment for the tension of the blade action.
 
91bravo said:
I don't mess with the stepped side screw. I always tighten it down basically to set it and forget it. I always adjust the non-stepped side because the stepped side is more temperamental. And besides, when you tighten the stepped side, it just tightens the bushing down onto the washer against the liner. The non-stepped side tightens the liner against the washer against the blade, which has better adjustment for the tension of the blade action.
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The bushing is stepped on both sides. The only difference between one side and the other is that one is notched with a small flat portion to keep it from spinning. Both sides have screw, scale, liner, washer, bushing, blade. So I can't see how it makes a difference which side you adjust.

Maybe pics will be helpful here. (These are not my photos).

Here's a picture of the bushing, stepped on both sides:
CIMG1569.jpg


Here's one of the notch on the left side of the bushing. Note the flat portion.
imgp5756.jpg
 
Yeah, maybe I worded my post wrong. What I meant by stepped, was that notch. Personally, just how I re-assemble, I always put the notched side of the bushing with the washer in first and lock-tite it in place.. Now the liner, washer and bushing are basically one "assembly" so to speak. I adjust the other screw, which pulls or looses this "assembly", tightening or loosening the action of the blade. Am I making any sense? I can't really put into words, but my notched side of the bushing always gets lock-tited and never gets touched again.
 
91bravo said:
Yeah, maybe I worded my post wrong. What I meant by stepped, was that notch. Personally, just how I re-assemble, I always put the notched side of the bushing with the washer in first and lock-tite it in place.. Now the liner, washer and bushing are basically one "assembly" so to speak. I adjust the other screw, which pulls or looses this "assembly", tightening or loosening the action of the blade. Am I making any sense? I can't really put into words, but my notched side of the bushing always gets lock-tited and never gets touched again.
Click to expand...

I get what you're saying now. :thumbup:

What I don't get is k_ozdragon saying there's one screw that's "locked in" and you shouldn't try to turn it... :confused:
 
Rusty_shackelford said:
did anyone else have a bunch of red lock tight on the pivot/scale screws when they took theirs apart?
Click to expand...

yep. i didn't take mine apart but i tried to tighten the pivot as their is a hair of side to side play and it's red locktighted and it's not gonna budge to loosen or tighten. very disappointing. i
ll have to rectify that myself and reuse blue as should be used for a pivot.
 
jbmonkey said:
yep. i didn't take mine apart but i tried to tighten the pivot as their is a hair of side to side play and it's red locktighted and it's not gonna budge to loosen or tighten. very disappointing. i
ll have to rectify that myself and reuse blue as should be used for a pivot.
Click to expand...

can't imagine why they used red. i guess they ran out of jb weld.
:)
 
hhmoore said:
I don't remember if my standard issue (black G10/s30v) had loctite; but my blurple s110v did.
Click to expand...
They all have loctite, but I've never seen the red loctite on one. Red is the permanent loctite. Usually blue is used.

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Ok this explains things. I tried adjusting the pivot a bit and had the darnedest time. I decided to stop to ensure no stripped screws. Guess I'll have to try the solder iron idea.


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ejames13 said:
I get what you're saying now. [emoji106]

What I don't get is k_ozdragon saying there's one screw that's "locked in" and you shouldn't try to turn it... :confused:
Click to expand...
I suppose I shouldn't say it "doesnt" turn. As has explained, the bushing is notched on that side. So turning that screw serves no purpose unless you're completely taking the knife apart; however even if that's the case it would still the the last screw to remove. If you loosen it to adjust the pivot, then ghe bushing can come lose. If it gets too loose it'll spin and offset the pivot and scales. It needs to remain tight, so pivot adjustment is done by the non-divot side. Basically it's a screw that never needs to be touched or adjusted. Also, Spyderco tightens this screw very tight to hold the pivot in place. As such, many people damage the knife trying to remove it. Many others also hold both screws believe in god that if they don't they can't loosen them from the pivot, which is obviously not the case and makes the job much more difficult. Plus if you do happen to loosen this screw first, you cannot remove the other without holding the pivot somehow and possibly damaging it. So basically that side of the pivot is "locked in" and should never be touched unless you are doing a full disassembly and removing the scales.

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